T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
---|
499.1 | REMOVE EVERYTHING | AKOV11::FULLER | | Tue Nov 24 1987 14:47 | 8 |
| Every year I completely disassemble my bikes removing all components.
Each piece is then cleaned and reassembled. What this does is
identifies problems you didn't know existed and removing all nuts
and bolts doesn't allow them to get frozen together. I don't replace
any cables, if you are using campy or similar quality cables, they
should last a few years. I have never seen one break out of normal
wear. If you have inexpensive cables, I recommend replacing with
a high quality cable.
|
499.2 | | MOSAIC::WASSER | John A. Wasser | Tue Nov 24 1987 16:51 | 8 |
|
As long as you have everything apart, you should consider
upgrading pieces... No sense in puting the whole thing back
together and THEN deciding you realy want to change to
sealed bearing hubs.
-John W.
"Well the frame is original equipment..."
|
499.3 | | WCSM::BUCHANAN | Mike Buchanan, Mt. View, CA | Wed Nov 25 1987 16:53 | 35 |
| o I've never had the courage or the tools to fool around with the
internal parts such as hubs, bottom bracket, peddles etc. But
whether you do it your self or have a good shop do it, it's well
worth it. When I was living on the east coast I found it worth
it to do it every year if I rode a lot, but with new sealed bearing
and living in California where it never seems to rain I go every
couple years.
o Inspect the headset well. I replaced two on my last bike, each
after about 6-8 K miles. When worn if you hold the front wheel
off the ground it will find it's own spot like it's settling into
a groove.
o I don't mean to sound like a rich man but if you have had the
chain for more than 3K miles just throw it away and get a new
one. I suggest a Shamino, now they come in either narrow or regular
width. I remember reading in Bicycle Mag a story where the author
was seeing exactly what the pro's use. He found that most of
them use a simple Sedisport (~ $5) rather than an expensive one.
Why? Because they regard them as too inexpensive to every worry
about failures, they use them for a few races and then just get
a new one.
o If you still use toe clips (you won't for long I bet) now is a
good time to replace the clips (especially you use steal ones).
I liked the plastic ones, they didn't fatigue and break and also
looked good if you have black peddles and shoes. Also replace
the straps.
o Time to rewrap the bars with new tape. Most people now seem to
be using the (slightly) padded ribbon tape. Since I don't usually
have trouble with my hands getting sore I use the Benotto plastic
tape since it's cheaper and looks cool as well.
|
499.4 | and this and this | HARDY::NUZZO | zk01-3, dtn: 381-1111, weez'in wheels | Mon Nov 30 1987 16:06 | 26 |
| re: .0
Yoo Matt.
Knowing the manner in which you "abuse" your bike under "normal"
riding conditions may I suggest you not only inspect all bearings,
cones and races but consider replace of the bearings et.al. on as
needed basis. You may want to replace your wheel bearings as a
matter of course (especially considering all the wheel problems
you have, and inspect the axels to insure they are not bent or broken.
Also check the wear on your chain, front chain rings (any badly
chipped teeth?) and require cogs. Also, if you are really obsessive
(like me) you can break apart the free-wheel body and check the
wear, either replacing the bearings or entire body if needed.
Last but not least check the condition of your brake pads, if worn
unevenly replace... it makes adjusting them so much easier and stopping
sooo much better.
Of course, all of this should keep you off the streets till late
Feb. and provide you with enough "spare parts" to justify buying
another frame...
jbn --- A frame a year that's all I ask....
|
499.5 | Reference books? | DSSDEV::HATCHER | | Thu Dec 03 1987 14:35 | 7 |
| What's a good reference book that takes a novice through some of
these things? I'd like to do some of this stuff but have never
done it and would be afraid I couldn't get it back together, or
recognize if it was bad!
Bob
|
499.6 | try Bike Nashbar for books | LDP::MELNYK | Andy | Thu Dec 31 1987 14:14 | 19 |
|
Try Bike Nashbar (Wexford St. in Needham) for books; seems
i recall seeing some listed in their catalog. I've no idea how
good they are. I've been a tinkerer since childhood, so i have
very little inhibition about taking apart machines and seldom
buy a manual for anything less complex than a VCR. Its more fun
to figure something out most of the time anyways - if you like
doing that sort of thing (most folks don't seem to).
No, you don't need to be naturally "mechanical" to maintain
a bicycle; you do need a bit of extra patience though and a perhaps
a good reference book. Look for one that explains how various
bicycle assemblies work and what their maintenance involves in
a general sort of way. That's probably better than getting a
book on a specific model or make, as it'll give you a basis from
which you can figure out the variations on the basic themes.
Best wishes,
Andy
|
499.7 | Two suggestions | CIMNET::MJOHNSON | Matt Johnson | Thu Dec 31 1987 15:44 | 6 |
| The December issue of Cyclist Magazine had an article on bike
repair manuals. I skimmed it, and found that they liked Glenn's
the best, with Bicycling Magazines Guide to Bike Repair their
second favorite.
MATT
|