Conference noted::bicycle

    During winter training, I usually categorize workouts as either
    "power" or "aerobic" workouts.  Power workouts include weights,
    running stairs, sprints ( on the bike or running ), and aerobic
    workouts are running steady long distance or riding.  Aerobic workouts
    should be done everyday, while power workouts should be done every
    other day.  
    
    Aeorbic workouts should last at least 45 minutes, and its good to go
    an hour.  Personally, I think running is fine as long as you're
    carefull where you do it.  Mainly, try to avoid running downhill
    unless you're on grass or dirt roads.  Since running should be done
    for its aerobic benefits, you're best to stay in the flat lands
    anyway.  I recommend riding a wind trainer at least three times
    a week.  Try to stay at higher rpm's than you normally would; 110
    to 120 is good.  The high rpm training is a better workout aerobically
    and you'll find that getting used to the high leg speed will really
    help your descents and sprints later on.  During aerobic workouts
    you should try to hold your heart rate at about 80-85% of your maximum
    heart rate.  This is actually kind of a crude estimate to your anerobic
    threshold.  The best way to determine the heart rate to ride at
    is to get on a wind trainer and ride for about 10 minutes at around
    55% of your maximum heart rate.  After the 10 minute warm up period,
    slowly start increasing your speed while holding the cadence relatively
    constant (110-120). Make gear changes every 2 or 3 minutes to increase
    the resistance.  It is very important give your heart rate a chance
    to settle into a value before changing resistances.  After you have
    increased the resistance a few times you'll find your legs will
    start to burn like they do when you're weight lifting.  At this
    point you've gone to far, you're anreobic.  Back off just enough
    so that you legs stop burning and check you're heart rate.  This
    is a reasonably good way to determine your anerobic threshold and
    it is the optimal point to do aerobic training.  I highly recommend
    buying a heart monitor.  I ride with one regardless, otherwise it's
    to easy to think I'm getting a workout when I'm not, especially
    on a trainer.
    
    As far as weights go, they're good no more than every other day.
    You should try to do 3-4 sets at about 30 reps.  Many people argue
    about the number of reps, but I figure a sprint in a bike race is
    never as short as the time it takes to do 8 or 10 reps.  Just
    rememeber, your training to be a cyclist, not a power weight lifter.
    On the same day as your weight lifting its good to do some sprints
    or stair running ( seprate them by an hour or two).  Sprinting in
    the winter is another point of arguement.  Many people say it leads
    to "burn out".  The key is to do them differently than during the
    summer.  In winter training, you should try to stay in the saddle
    for the duration of the sprint while keeping your rpm's around 130-150.
    Again, its the high rpm's that is important. It really will help
    later.
    
    Regardless of who you ask, everyone will say something different
    on training; especially winter training.  The one thing that I have
    never heard anyone disagree on is high rpm training.  Also, keep
    in mind that when you switch training programs you'll probably need
    to take it a little easier than normal until you've had a chance
    to get used to the new execises.
    
    Paul Dunn (cat. 2)
    

    
    I agree with everything Paul said. Also, you CAN ride in February,
    it just takes more, ahem, you-know-what to do it. You can simulate
    all the training you want, but the best training is to get out and
    ride, even for an hour. As long as it's above 20 degrees or so you
    can take a short jaunt. I also highly reccommend a fixed gear setup
    for early season training, with a 65 inch or so gear for the first
    800 miles. Then you can take out the derailleur bike and keep it
    out of the big ring for the next few hundred miles. With a thousand
    mile base you can start to think about racing or doing some real
    hard interval training outside in a group.
    
    Dress warmly, ride with others, watch out for ice and motor vehicles.
    And don't push too hard in the beginning, you have plenty of time
    to get ready. The real racing season doesn't start until the beginning
    of May.
    
    I used to get all bent out of shape in the first few training races
    of the year, because of all the suntanned riders who have the luxury
    of training in warmer climates. Don't let it get to your head, you'll
    catch up sooner or later, and you'll have your chance to beat them
    eventually.
    
    CdH (ex Cat 2)
    

< Note 473.2 by MPGS::DEHAHN >


    
>    can take a short jaunt. I also highly reccommend a fixed gear setup
>    for early season training, with a 65 inch or so gear for the first
>    800 miles. Then you can take out the derailleur bike and keep it
>    out of the big ring for the next few hundred miles. With a thousand
    
What's the benefit of the fixed gear?  Do you use toe clips/cleats?  If so I 
would think the fixed gear would be rather dangerous?  (I've never ridden one)
How do you stop?  Couldn't you accomplish the same thing riding a derailleur 
bike and just keep it in one gear?  Of course, you'd have to be very 
disciplined.

Kevin

    RE:  473.3
    	
    	For a discussion of fixed gears take a look at all the replies
    to note 124.  (dir/title=fixed)
    
    /Nick B...

    When you're using a fixed gear for winter training you can either
    use a road bike without the derailers or mount a set of brakes on
    a track bike. Most people I know use their road bike without the
    derailers and  obviously with the fixed gear wheel.  The benefit
    to this is that it forces you to spin fast if you use the recommended
    small gears.  After riding a fixed gear you'll also realize how
    much time you spend coasting on a road bike.  It's the little things
    that you don't realize. (a little breather at the top of a hill,
    tucking on a descent instead of spinning 160 rpm, that kind of thing.)
    It also takes a very disciplined rider to stay at high rpm's on
    a road bike for a long time.  Personally I spend most of the winter
    on a trainer because I can fet on a push 120 rpm for an hour without
    one stop.  This is the key to aerobic training; don't stop!  Many
    people don't like the boredom, so they use fixed gears.  Of course,
    the best solution is to move somewhere where there is a veleodrome
    that stays open in the winter; then you can ride a real bike with
    a fixed gear with no interuptions. (this is a nice thing for us
    in Colorado Springs.)  
    
    The best way to show yourself the benefit of high rpm, uniterupted
    training is to wear a heart monitor sometime.  I find even if I
    do no more than see a red light coming a slow a little, my heart
    rate will drop 15-25 beats/minute in that 5 or 10 seconds; and then
    it takes another 30 or 40 seconds to get back up to my threshold.
    After a couple of those of rests, or the type I mentioned before,
    your aerobic training ride is blown.  Also, notice your heart rate
    on descents and as you crest hills and I think you'll find that
    most of the time your not working like you though you were.
    
    Paul Dunn
      

    
    I don't agree with your aerobic theories. Just because you take
    a rest at the top of a long climb doesn't mean your aerobic exercise
    is "blown". You just aren't getting 110% out of the workout. That's
    why a fixed gear is helpful, it forces you to work harder and longer
    than a derailleur bike. The fixed also works out muscles that you
    don't pay too much attention to with a freewheel bike, like your
    hams. When descending on a fixed, you use your hams to control your
    speed, using the brake as a last resort. 
    
    I use a track bike for fixed gear trainer, mainly out of convenience.
    Keeping a track bike cleaner during those cruddy months is pretty
    easy, especially if it's a lead pipe special like mine. There's
    a Modolo ultra short reach brake on the front. Sure it's dangerous,
    but a track bike is so much more maneuverable that you can ride
    your way out of trouble. The other advantage is that it rides REAL
    hard, which prepares your bum for the upcoming big mileage of the
    season.
    
    CdH
    
    Early season training must be approached progressively, you have to 
    start somewhere, and proceed slowly or you'll get hurt.