| You should be aware that alloy rims offer better braking performance
that steel rims, especially under wet conditions. This could be
a problem if the front wheel were alloy and the rear wheel steel,
where if you appled an equal amount of squeeze to the front and
rear brakes, the front wheel might lock up, and send you flying.
But since the rear wheel will be the alloy one, I don't see any
serious hazard, except for some possible rear wheel skidding until
you get used to the more positive braking of the alloy rim.
Joe
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| The ring is on the rear wheel to protect the spokes in case the
chain jumps the freewheel. As long as your rear derailer is adjusted
correctly, leave it off. The consequences of not having it there
is that the spokes will get damaged if the chain does jump.
As for a rim change, just beware that all rims are not the same
size and that you will most likely need new spokes also. Chances
are (since it was a steel rim) the spokes/hubs/tires on your current
wheels are probably not really great and you'll pay a fair amount
to have new rims and spokes put on, you may be better of buying
a whole new set of wheels from a mail order outlet (all-ready built
wheels that is).
Balancing as your mechanic refered to it is usually called "truing"
in the bike world. After hitting a big pot hole or breaking a spoke
you'll notice the wheel isn't perfectly round anymore. Truing a
wheel involves re-tensioning the spokes so that the wheel does spin
correctly. Both side to side and up and down wheel wobbles can
be fixed this way.
Paul Dunn
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| Re .2
If I had one alloy and one steel rim on a bike, I'd want the alloy
rim on the front, for the better braking that alloy offers. Since
most braking force comes from the front wheel, that's where the
better braking surface is most effective. And it's virtually impossible
to lock a front wheel anyway.
Rod
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