Conference noted::bicycle

> I need to work on getting my cadence up there, but what should I shoot for?

	It depends on how you get your fun.  For a general touring
	cadence you can try 90 to 120.  For racing you would probably
	want to spin faster (maybe 200?).  Practice pulling back
	at the bottom of the stroke and up at the back of the
	stroke to get all of your leg muscles to work on every
	revolution.

> Also, I need a 4-bike carrier for a Chev Suburban.  Any opinions on 
> (I think) the Grabber?

	Never heard of it.  For four bike you will probably have to use
	a car-top carrier.  I have used some "Bike Porter" carriers set 
	up for four bikes.  You fairly well have to walk on the roof 
	of the vehicle to get to the inside bikes.

	Most roof racks (Thule, Yakima and LaPrealpina are the most
	common) can be set up for four bikes.

    RE:  cadences
    	A cadence of 90 or slightly less is common among tourists.
    	A cadence of 90-120 is common among racers.
    	A cadence of 200 is not common.  (except maybe among track racers?)
    
    Nick B...

    The human body is most efficient at a cadence of 70-90 RPM. 
    Racers may hit 120 sometimes, but not for long.  I don't think 
    a cadence of 200 rpm is possible or desirable - the highest I've 
    been able to hit (on an excercise bike with zero resistance, pedaling
    like a mad man) is 145.  
    
    A cadence of 200 on a track bike with typical gearing would register 
    well over 60mph - not very likely!

    MATT

    Thanks....My cadence was about 60, so I have my work cut out for
    me!!! :-(
    
    				Larry
    

    I've found the optimum cadence for me is 90.  Your cadence sounds
    very low.  Try gearing down to speed it up.  It is far easier to
    peddle faster with less torque then to strain your legs while 
    peddling slower.
    
    Even on steep hills, I will never let my cadence get below 80. 
    Of course, having a granny gear on my bike will allow me to gear 
    much lower, thus increasing my cadence.
    
    Regards,
    Denis 

    Interesting discussion. I've been riding a while, but I tend
    to run with a cadence of 60-75. I have a tendency to go for the
    highest gear whenever possible - bad habit, I know, if it pulls
    down my cadence.
    
    I was thinking of entering a note next 1-April on "which gear
    do you use" - you know: "My bicycle has 10 speeds, and I don't
    know which one of them I'm supposed to use", but it might be
    educational for the more experienced riders to comment on how
    one selects a ratio for a particular set of conditions (do you
    always try to maintain constant cadence?), etc.

    If you're hyperventilating and your legs don't ache, shift up.

    If your legs ache and you're not hyperventilating, shift down.

    If you're hyperventilating AND your legs ache, congratulations:
    you've found the right pace.

    On flat and slightly rolling terrain most racers will vary from
    a cadence of 90-120.  By alternating the cadence periodically it
    will help you stay fresher.  In the hills caddences are generally
    lower, about 80-100 if your in the saddle and 70-90 if your out.
    I have seen track sprinters at the U.S. Olympic Training Center
    hit about 225.  Cadencs also should vary accorcing to your training.
    If your just starting or are a racer in winter training, its good
    to stay 110-125 as much as possible until you get to the point where
    you need to start power (interval) workouts.  At that time (usually
    mid-January to early February for most racers in winter training)
    training cadence should drop to the 90-110 range.  You'll find early
    training at high cadence will really help your sprint for later
    in the season.  As you bulk up though, training will be more
    comfortable at a the silghtly lower cadence.
    
    Paul Dunn (cat 2)
    

	re cadence	I try to push the highest gear I can while staying
    above 90, usually this means I spin 95 most of the time.  Sometimes
    if I'm with a very slow group I'll drop to the back and shift to my
    lowest gear, put the cateye on cadence and see what I can do, 180 is
    never a problem, 200 is tough, I think I've done 205 a few times, and
    208 was the best.  Oh, if you try this while on a ride make sure there
    is nobody you know watching you, it looks *WEIRD* (I've been told).
    Sometime I'll set up to see how many revs I can turn out in a 60 second
    period, just for fun.  I think real track sprinters in fact can hit 300
    on a no load trainer, they can also lift huge weights in the squat
    exercise, though slowly.  The combination of speed training at
    virtually no load and weight training a much lower speed developes the
    explosive power a sprinter needs.

    Here's another one for all you 'next unseen' users.  I notice that
    even for casual, slow rides around the bike path over lunch, the
    riders put on their spandex shorts, etc.  Why?  What advantage is
    there to "bicycle" clothing?  Why tights instead of blue jeans?

    
    Why not go for a 50 mile ride and then ask "why bicycle clothing?"
    
    Bike shorts are tight so that they don't bunch up and chaff (sp)
    you where you don't want to be chaffed!!!!  
    
    I'd rather where they "right" clothing then have blisters on my.....
    
    
    Stew
    

    	RE: .10
    
    	If you rode as many miles as some of the people in this file
    	(and others), you wouldn't ask.
    
    	Like most other things/sports that require a specific kind
    	of clothes/equipment, it's done for a reason.
    
    	Scott

    I figured it was done for a reason... just wanted to know what the
    reason was... thanks.  I just remember as a kid in northern Minnesota,
    I was not a bike hobbyist..I was into model planes, etc.  The nearest
    hobby shop was 30 miles away, and I'd take my bike (an old 1-speed
    heavyweight) and ride over and back in jeans.  Now I see guys in
    their lycras on a 10 mi. ride over lunch.  Just curious, ya know?
    I suspect that a lot of this crowd I'm seeing would have you beleive
    that they're more serious than they are... Thanks again.
    
    						larry
    

Re .10:

Pay no attention to the explanations in .11, .12 and 13, they are
merely excuses. 

Statistical studies have shown that most bicyclists are at least a 
bit kinky.  Most of these people, even when off the bike, wear a 
weird wardrobe when ever possible.  

One of the advantages of cycling is the opportunity to live your 
fantasies, and have an excuse for doing so.

Are you jealous?

	~Mike

    Here are a couple more newcomer questions.  After the last one,
    you can tell I'm a glutton for punishment.
    
    The time has come for me to make out my Christmas wish list, and
    I feel that it would be worth my while to get a helmet.  I know
    that there is quite a discussion on the subject of whether or not
    to wear one... Having decided to wear one, what are the pros and
    cons of different models.  There are so many I don't really know
    where to start.  I'm a recreational rider, not a TTer or road racer...
    
    Also, I borrowed a magnetic trainer from a guy who got bored.  Any
    good sources for excercise schedules, paces, length of time to ride,
    etc.... I'm currently at about 6'2", 200 lbs., 39 years old....
   
    					Thanks,
    
    					Larry
    

    I just saw note 199... please disregard the first question of -.1
    cuz it's already been beaten to death.... Any advice on an excercise
    schedule???
    
    					Larry
    

    	RE: 416.16
    
    	You can start by looking at notes 2 and 29. The info there
    	should get you started.
    
    	There are probably plenty of other notes.
    
    	Scott

    OK, since you guys are able to answer all my questions (so far),
    however dumb, I've got another one.  I was told that *everyone*
    should know what gears he has, so I squatted last night on my haunches
    to count teeth (actually, I saw that at least some of the freewheel
    cogs had the numbers engraved, but the engraving was so small, it
    was easier to count teeth.  Anyway, I noticed that some of the
    freewheel cogs had some teeth broken off to about half height. 
    This is Shimano Light Action stuff.... Now, is this normal wear
    and tear, a defect in the product, or the result of my ham-handed
    shifting while riding the learning curve?  Advice?
    
    				Thanks,
    
    				Larry
    

    It's made that way to give you a faster shift.
    
    Rod

    Thanks!  I KNEW someone in this notesfile would know!
    

    Well, I how have another question!  This weekend is my first century,
    and I really don't know what I should bring (obviously a LARGE water
    bottle).
    	When a ride annoucement says food is provided, does that mean
    enough during the ride to do a century, or should I take some of
    my own.  I'm sure I can't carry enough with me to do a full century!
    	What else should I carry?  I plan to take a spare tube, patch
    kit, frame pump, hex wrench, screwdriver.  Should I carry a spare
    tire, or use the space for a banana?
    
    	Any and all suggestions appreciated... Thanks.
    

< Note 416.21 by CCYLON::SCHULDT "Larry Schuldt - WA9TAH" >
                          -< Supplies for a century >-

>    	When a ride annoucement says food is provided, does that mean
>    enough during the ride to do a century, or should I take some of
>    my own.  I'm sure I can't carry enough with me to do a full century!

Depends on what you carry.  I've do many centuries this year, relying totally 
on high carbo energy drinks (we're talking 600 calories/lg bike bottle).  I 
carry 2 lg bottles of the stuff and 1 sm bottle of water, and enough of the 
powder to refill the lg bottles.  That will last me 5.5 to 7 hours, long 
enough to finish any of those C's.  I've also gotten sick on the stuff, so 
I'll probably start supplementing that with some bagels.  

The point is, if you know what you like to eat on a long ride, I'd carry it.  
I wouldn't rely on the race organization to supply enough, or something you 
like.  I have a 400 cu. in. wedge bag that holds a lot of stuff.

>    	What else should I carry?  I plan to take a spare tube, patch
    
For long rides I'd be more concerned with the weather.  No matter how fast you 
ride it, a century is long enough to see alot of weather changes.  The longer 
you take, the greater the exposure.  I always take rain gear (at least the 
jacket) and arm and/or leg warmers if the temperatures warrant it.  I tend to 
get cold at the end of a long event...esp if I start to get dehydrated.  
Remember to drink often, before you get thirsty.

Good luck, and have fun.

Kevin

ps.  where is the century?

    The century is the Udder Century, so named because it runs on country
    blacktop in northern Illinois dairy country.  It begins in Crystal
    Lake, Illinois.  Since this notes file has a definite East coast
    flavor, I don't expect I'll meet too many people who's names I see
    regularly here.....
    					Larry

	Well, after the questions I've asked and the helpful (well, usually)
answers I've received from contributors to this conference, I thought I'd
enter an update on what's been happening.
	Last year at this time, I weighed 204 lbs and had an old Raleigh DL-1
that I had put about 500 miles on in about 15 years.  Remembering how much I
enjoyed riding as a kid, I asked for and received a new bike for my 39th
birthday at the end of last summer.  This miracle machine was a Centurion Sport
DLX, complete with 27 x 1 1/8 tires, stem shifters, and Shimano Light Action
componentry.  I rode the Centurion through the fall and during the winter put
it on a magnetic trainer.  Grinding away during the evenings gave me fresh,
new insights in the basic concept of boredom.  Anyway, by spring I was down to
175 lbs, and feeling ready to go.
	One fine sunny and (relatively) warm March day, I decided it was time
to get back on the road and do a 25 mile trip to the next town (Woodstock, IL) 
and back.  After putting on the handlebar bag and filling it with the 'goodies'
such as hat, gloves, jacket, etc. that I might need on such an early ride, I
started off.  At the first turn, a whole .2 miles from home, I applied the
brakes.  The handlebar bag caught between the handlebar and the brake
extension levers, and I went into the ditch beside the road.
	Result: 2 wheels shaped a lot like potato chips.
Since it's an ill wind that blows no good, I now had an excuse to go and get
some better wheels built.  I now have Mavic MA40 wheels, stainless DT spokes,
Specialized 700 x 25C Turbo S tires, and the same old hubs (had to save a
buck somewhere!).  What a difference!  If anyone wants to upgrade a similar
bike, the wheels are sure a good place to start!  It looks a little strange 
with the brakes set all the way down to reach the smaller wheel, but it works
great!  One additional change this spring was to replace the plain old
non-clip-and-strap pedals with a pair of Shimano 600 pedals.  Not as
dramatic an improvement as the new wheels,  but it helped.  Anyway, cycling
was fun again!
	One of my co-workers, Vince got the bug.  He went and bought himself
a Trek 1200 this spring, and we decided that we'd spend a lot of lunch hours
pounding around the forest preserve trail across the street.  This led to
'discussions' with the facilities police, detailed in another topic in this
conference.  Anyway, the Centurion ended up being stored at RLO, but I had
the good old Raleigh to ride at home, didn't I?
	Actually, about this time I realized that there was a very good reason
that I only put 500 miles on the Raleigh in 15 years.  I got on the beast for
a weekend ride, and it was just no fun.  The thing was TOO stable.  I couldn't
make it change direction unless I came to almost a complete stop.  Lean it over
in a curve?  You gotta be kidding!  Stand up and hammer on it, and where the
Centurion would surge forward, the Raleigh woud do....almost nothing.  A
couple more rides, and the faithful old Raleigh was out by the curb with a
FOR SALE sign on it.
	Now came the delicate part.  With the Raleigh for sale, and the
Centurion stored at work, I wanted another bike.  Please bear in mind that
this is in spring, and my wife had just bought me a bike in fall.  With my
usual tact and panache, I causually mentioned to my wife that I would like to
buy another bike.  You could of knocked me over with a feather when her reply
was, "Go ahead."
	This brought on a rash of shopping and comparing and looking and
drooling.  I finally brought home a bike built around the Schwinn Prologue
frameset, full Shimano 600-EX group, San Marco Rolls saddle, Cinelli bar and
stem, and Wolber 32 spoke aero rims.  I triumphantly brought the new toy home
and my wife allowed as it was really a pretty bike.
	So, what's the bottom line on all this long story?  I'm down from 204
lbs. to 164 lbs.  I've done a 50 mile ride, a metric century, a couple 80 mile
rides, and full century this year, plus a lot of shorter rides.  I'm still
riding at lunch; yesterday rode two laps around the trail for an average speed
of 20.1 mph over 18 miles.  There are plans to do at least another century
this year.  In short, I'm stronger, lighter, faster (and my wife says better
looking) than I've been for years.  And I'm having a ball!
	Thanks for the help, guys.

					Larry (turning 40 this week)

I would guess that the "better looking, feeling better" had some influence
on the "go ahead."

Just watch out for "bike stable fever."

Congrats on the results.  Sorry we never met you in Capron.  Maybe next
year.

ed