| T.R | Title | User | Personal
Name | Date | Lines |
|---|
| 345.1 | | CHOPIN::JBELL | Wot's..Uh the Deal? | Mon Jun 15 1987 13:30 | 22 |
|
First see if the brake really works right.
Take the wheel off and sqeeze the lever a couple times. If
only one of the pads moves, then you should fiddle with the
brake itself. (disassemble and clean)
If the brake seems OK then put the wheel back and work on getting the
wheel and brake to line up. On the shaft of the brake, there
is a cylindrical piece that the spring goes through. It's
the orientation of the spring holder that determines where
the pads are going to return. Some models of brakes come
with wrench flats so that you can rotate it to match the
wheel, but it's usually impossible to get the wrench in there.
Most of the time (for me) I resort to taking a hammer and
drift to the thing for the fine adjustment. I know that I
lose style points for the hammer, but it works.
It also helps if you oil the contact between the spring and
the brake arm; the return action is sharper.
-Jeff Bell
|
| 345.2 | | SUSHI::KMACDONALD | Macarooned on a Dessert Island | Mon Jun 15 1987 15:21 | 16 |
| > the pads are going to return. Some models of brakes come
> with wrench flats so that you can rotate it to match the
> wheel, but it's usually impossible to get the wrench in there.
I got a little wrench made specifically for these flats. It's basically
a little spanner. Works GRAND.
> Most of the time (for me) I resort to taking a hammer and
> drift to the thing for the fine adjustment. I know that I
> lose style points for the hammer, but it works.
My former method. Works grand too, but couldn't resist the (gadget)
wrench! BTW, with this method, it seems much better to hit the SPRING
with the drift (can use a screwdriver, too) than the brake ARMS. Light
taps, usually don't need to be brutal....
ken
|
| 345.3 | A clean brake is a happy brake? | MOSAIC::WASSER | John A. Wasser | Mon Jun 15 1987 17:13 | 7 |
| My tendency would be toward taking the brake apart, cleaning
all the parts and lubricating with a light grease any places
where two pieces touch.
A point that hasn't been mentioned to to check the cable
routing to make sure that there is no pull or push applied
by the cable.
|
| 345.4 | yeah for the wrench | NOVA::FISHER | P-B-P qualified | Tue Jun 16 1987 12:04 | 8 |
| The wrench is usually the easiest way to fix this problem. 5 seconds
vs many minutes of messing around, sometimes over and over, especially
when you also have to mess with (yuch) fenders.
I worked on another person's bike and grabbed my Park Offset Brake
Wrench and, lo, it didn't fit. I had to use a 14 mm cone wrench.
ed
|
| 345.5 | Thanks | PABLO::FLEMING | | Wed Jun 17 1987 12:11 | 7 |
|
Thanks for all the input. Re-orienting the spring holder
fixed the problem. Was necessary to take it apart to do
it but this revealed that the nylon washer separating the
calipers had become squashed paper-thin in the middle. I'm
sure this wasn't helping, either.
|
| 345.6 | you sure it didn't start out that way? | NOVA::FISHER | P-B-P qualified | Thu Jun 18 1987 07:38 | 1 |
| some of those washers are paper thin to start with.
|