Conference noted::bicycle

    I have been to Nova Scotia twice.  The way I have done it both
    times was to drive through New Brunswick, park the car and then
    tour for a number of days.  To ride all of Nova Scotia and Prince
    Edward Island, it would take at perhaps a month.  In my opinion,
    the areas which shouldn't be missed are Cape Breton's Cabot trail
    and Prince Edward's Island.  Cape Breton is very hilly and views
    are truely breathtaking.  I saw my first bald eagle there.  P.E.I
    (actually a separate province of Canada) is rolling potato farms
    with lots of quiet back roads.  
    
    The problem with the ferry from Portland or Bar Harbor is that it
    drops you off in Yarmouth, the other end of the Province.  I would
    try to take the ferry one direction though, its lots of fun.  The
    day trip is usually from Yarmouth to Portland and it takes 10 hours.
    If you investigate this further, ask about the Tuesday special if
    it is still available.
    
    Food is seafood of course.  When we were touring in Cape Breton,
    we stopped at a house in a town about 10 miles before the entrance
    to the national park, who was selling fresh crab.  This was one
    of the most memorable experiences I've had. 
    
    People are extremely friendly.  If I go back again I will take a
    B&B guide with me to take in the local culture.  Camping is best
    in State and National Parks.
    
    Weather can be unpredictable.  First time we went in the summer,
    and the weather was generally dry.  The second time we went,
    it was right after labor day and it rained for 8 straight days.
    
    There is much to talk about Nova Scotia, send me a mail or phone
    if you want more info.
    
    Steve
    

    I toured the western end of Nova Scotia by bicycle a few years ago.
    We took the ferry from Portland to Yarmouth and left the car in
    Portland.
    Obviously bikes were an afterthought on the ferry because they were
    just leaned along the walls of the boat after all the cars had been
    loaded. I guess it was safe to leave your equipment there because
    no one is allowed down to the car area after the ferry leaves the
    dock.
    The Portland ferry is an overnite trip (or at least it used to be);
    about 10 hours long and has a Csino and slot machines aboard if
    you are into those kind of things. If I did it over again I would
    take the Bar harbor ferry to Yarmouth which is a 6 hour day trip.
    If the weather is good there is a good possibility of seeing whales
    and seals on the open ocean. I took this ferry once on a car trip
    to Nova Scotia and recommend it over the Portland ferry.
    Nova Scotia is big and if time is limited and you want to tour Cape
    Breton Highlands (from what I've heard, definitely recommended)
    perhaps a car drive through New Brunswick is better. We did meet
    some cyclists however that took the ferry and then took a train
    (from Halifax?) to the Eastern part. I don't know any more details
    than that.
    The Western end makes for good relatively flat touring. The route
    we took was south from Yarmouth along the lighthouse route over
    a lot of backroads to Halifax (nice city). Don't miss Peggy's Cove
    near Halifax; it has some really awesome land/seascapes. While in
    Halifax take in the Citadel fortress in the center of the city.
    From there we headed Northwest towards Kejimkujik National park.
    Most of the population of Nova scotia lives near the coast and the
    interior is quite remote. You'll ride for long distances without
    seeing any sservices available. Once again the roads are pretty
    flat. From the south shore it is a long gradual climb towards the
    north shore with a fairly quick drop down again once you get near
    the north shore. We spent the night in the park (hot showers
    available). While there we saw deer, heard the loons on the lake
    at night, and missed an oppurtunity to see a bear rummaging through
    the trash cans in the middle of the night.
    From Kejimkujik we headed north to Annapolis Royal where there is
    another fort and an interesting recreation of the oldest permanent
    settlement in North America called the "Habitation".
    Most of the forts, historical parks, etc. are run by the govt. and
    have free admission, although donations are gladly accepted.
    From there we headed west on the Evangeline trail following the
    coastline back towards Yarmouth. The french influence is heavy on
    the North shore while English ancestry dominates the south coastal
    areas. Look for the gigantic cathedrals along the Evangeline trail.
    We went immediately after Labor day and the tourists and traffic
    were nonexistent. The weather was excellent; I recall only one morning
    of rain. Otherwise the days were sunny and mild although the mornings
    were pretty brisk.
    You'll find the area to be pretty low keyed and non-touristy. The
    locals are very friendly and I found the children to be especially
    curious of us as we rode through some of the small fishing villages.
    The scenery and historical attractions were excellent. 
    Definetely worth the trip!

    By all means take the ferry from Portland. Arrives Yarmouth about
    8:00 AM. East coast north to Bridgewater is endless NOTHING. Small
    rolling hills, lots of wind, FEW places to get supplies, but the
    people are extremely friendly. Lots of small villages in that 53
    miles. The only lodging is in Bridgewater but I suggest you avoid
    it  at all costs. There is a daily train to HALIFAX that frequently
    but not always carries bikes. Best scenery is in the Cape Bretton
    area but very hilly. I talked to a lot of people while there. Tourists
    and residents. All agreed there really isn't much to see there.
    It's really a oversold hype. There is a bike club in NS. I have
    the address somewhere. Good luck.
    
    Ralph

    Guess it all depends what you're looking for, but if you're like
    most touring cyclists, you look for scenery, and Nova Scotia has
    plenty.  I haven't biked Nova Scotia and my two-week auto trip was
    18 years ago, but I thought then the route along the Bay of Fundy
    from Yarmouth to Kentville/Wolfville and Cape Blomidon would make
    excellent biking.  Also, the shore route north of Halifax through
    Sheet Harbor to Lochaber Lake is frequently picturesque.  The Cabot
    Trail on Cape Breton Island offers plenty of challenge (Hills! 
    Hills!) but the scenery of mountains and shoreline is almost
    incomparable.  
    
    Getting from Yarmouth to Ingonish (C.B.I.) by bicycle will require
    some perseverance, however -- it's at least 500 miles by road.
    
    I say go.
    
    Mac.

    Thanks for the info.
    
    We toured western and central Prince Edward Island around Labor Day
    (which is when the tourist season ends at Cavendish - Anne of Green
    Gables area). We mostly traveled coastal roads which are marked as
    scenic trails (Lady Slipper Driver, Blue Heron Trail etc.) which were
    mostly quiet two lane roads. PEI isn't dramatic like Cape Breton's
    highlands; it has a gentle beauty of farmland and coast. Roads are flat
    except in the center and east. It can be windy - there is a windmill
    test station at North Cape. The weather changes quickly - you can see
    rain falling in the distance which may bypass you.
    
    We particularly enjoyed camping at the Jacques Cartier Park which has a
    beach miles long of fine red sand. The water was still warm enough to
    take a dip after 10 minutes of wading-out to waist deep water. There
    were only 2 other couples at this provincial park. The soft grass
    helped as my air mattress lowered me to the ground during the night.
    You can walk to red cliffs carved by waves at the white church just
    north of there. 

    We also enjoyed the Acadian & agricultural festival at Abram Village
    - animal and woodsman show, music, cold (traditional) lobster dinner
    and dancing. Next morning there was a mass in French at a nearby
    harbor with the priest and choir on board a boat.
    
    PEI is busiest from the middle of July to the middle of August. B&B
    reservations are needed and most campsites are full (except for the one
    at Green River which is near a ship-building museum but is also
    infested with mosquitoes.) Many provincial parks close in the middle of
    September. Provincial and national campgrounds have hot showers,
    washing machines and fireplaces with firewood.
    
    Since it rained we stayed two nights at the Doctor's Inn (a B&B)
    in Tyne Valley. They are organic farmers and serve a good meal.
    PEI is dry (government liquor stores; Legion halls instead of bars)
    - our hosts were kind enough to serve us home-brew.
    
    Cycling from Kensington to Cavendish was hilly and the tourist drivers
    were impatient (i.e. honking to drive you off the road when you're
    nearing the crest of a hill). The national park at Cavendish was very
    big and crowded and the sites were worn. Near Green Gables house were
    "King Tut's Tomb" and a Space Shuttle. Beaches are changed by the
    waves; the Cavendish beach wasn't as nice as the one described above.

    Literature on PEI (a map, Bed & Breakfast and farm inn info) is
    available from the tourist info centers on the island and also from
    the tourist board by mail.
    
    -Weimin Tchen