Conference terri::cars_uk

�    1. Change the camber to move the front wheels slightly further back.
    
    Wouldn't you change the castor angle to do this ?
    
    Not that I would think that a good idea.
    
    
    On the subject of body modifications, is there a 'return' on the
    wheelarch panel on the Mini ?  If so, would you gain enough clearance
    by flattening this against the panel itself ?  This has been done to
    other vehicles in the past where tyre/arch clearance is minimal.
    You would expect to snip the return every inch or so (maybe more)
    to allow it to be bent back easily.  Then rustproof it.
    
    If you are going to increase the track further, I don't suppose that
    simple modifications like this would be enough.  Just an idea.
    
    J.R.

	My first car was a mini with wheel arch flairs.  These were aluminium
	and rivited on (well it was a cheap car).  Together with wheel spacers
	they gave about 1" of extra wheel on each side.  I took all of this
	off and returned it to "standard" mini (kept the 1100 cc engine though).

	Now these may be available now, but I would watch out for sharp edges,
	these are against the construction and use regulations and a fussy
	mot station may quibble (and why not, if they stop an unsafe car?)...

	Dave

    Re:.1. Sorry. Yes I mean castor angle, not camber angle.
    
    RE:.1 and .2. The Mini wing itself is conventional in that there is a
    folded metal lip round the wheelarch. As the track on Minis has got
    wider over the years, primarily with the introduction of disc brakes,
    so Minis today come fitted with plastic wheel arches to extend the
    effective width of the wheelarch. 
    
    I am assuming that some tuning firm will supply slightly wider plastic
    wheelarches of a slightly larger diameter which will require the metal
    wheelarch underneath to be cut away slightly. I am making the not
    unrealistic assumption that other people have encountered the same
    problem. What I am hoping is that there is some kit that can be bolted
    on that both solves the clearance problem and also gives a good
    appearance, which can be fitted by a person with minimal metal-bashing
    skills! A further factor is that the wing will probably need to be
    reinforced as the structure will be weakened if I snip away at the
    wheelarch lip.
    
    Brian

    Unfortunately, I can't make any recommendations regarding wheel arches. 
    However, I might be able to suggest a way around the problem.
    
    If you intend to drive the card hard - requiring constant heavy use of
    brakes and pushing handling to the limits, then the mods you are
    suggesting sound fine.  I cannot comment any further. However, if you 
    are only likely to want performance in spurts, then you might think 
    about leaving the wheels and brakes alone, and putting the money you 
    have into the engine and related components.
    
    Madman, you might think.  Well, not quite.
    
    I have prepared and competed minis in competition.  I currently run a
    1980 mini on the road which I prepared and successfully used in
    hill-climbing for a number of years.  At peak, this car developed
    105BHP at the wheels, but was driven on standard wheels and tyres. 
    Braking was achieved entirely on servo assisted drums, using mintex
    competition shoes.
    
    Admittedly, hill-climbing does not place the same demands on brakes as
    other forms of competition.  However, it probably pushes braking
    requirements beyond the limits normally needed for brisk road driving.
    
    One final note.  The 1400 injected unit looks interesting.  But there is
    nothing to beat the guzzling induction sound of a single 1 3/4" SU
    fitted to a 1380 competition unit!!!
    
    Gareth M

RE:                      <<< Note 2033.4 by SUTRA::MALLET >>>
    
�    One final note.  The 1400 injected unit looks interesting.  But there is
�    nothing to beat the guzzling induction sound of a single 1 3/4" SU
�    fitted to a 1380 competition unit!!!
    
    I couldn't agree more! Especially when the air is being sucked in
    though a K&N and thrown out through a Janspeed exhaust system. Those
    old A-Series make a lovely noise! They fit Ford 1300s to the Healey
    Frogeye these days, the same(ish) power as my 1400 A-Series, but they
    just don't sound right.
    
    As for wheel arches on a Mini, well this month's CCC (for instance) has
    at least 10 companies advertising a range of these things. Worth a
    look.
    
    Laurie.

    The Catch 22 about fitting plastic arches is that you will have to cut
    away or move the metal edge of the wing in any event. On the later mini if 
    the plastic arch just to prevent mud splashes at full lock then
    the original arch is most likely still in place. If the steel has been
    cut then it would make sense to follow that design for your Mini.
    But the ideal method must be to panel beat the flared arch, or weld an
    arch in, (smooth on inside as well as the outer). An alternative may be
    to belt out (technical term describing the use of a big hammer), the 
    flared arch as best as possible so it clears the wheels and cover it with 
    the plastic arch hiding the "belted out bit" on the wing.
    
    I noted an "Electic Blue" mini with very large flared arches on the 
    A33 Swallow Field Bypass near Reading last week. The arches stuck out 
    very wide I guess about 4-6" on EACH corner. Looked quite well done 
    as far as I could see when I passed it in the oil burner!!!!  
    

    Thanks for all the help. On the wheelarch side Mini Spares tell me that
    their Group 13 arches would probably be best. These are fibreglass,
    finished in black, are slightly wider than the standard ones, and
    slightly larger diameter, allowing the wing to be trimmed back. I'll
    have to take a look at them at the weekend. It would be nice to flare
    them in, and spray them body coloured, but unfortunately I am
    not a good enough sculptor. Still, Rover don't bother with the standard
    ones, so it shouldn't look too bad.
    
    I have driven a tuned Mini on standard tyres, but  putting the power
    down on the road is tricky. The brake setup is really overkill, but I
    prefer not to take chances here! My own preference, engine-wise, is
    also to keep the noise level down, however nice the howl. I know this
    is unusual, but I plan on driving long distances. Similarly, the main
    attraction of fuel-injection is the increase in mid-range torque.
    
    Regards,
    
    Brian

Why not try the 175/50x13 P7s.  But then they are
a bit wide so you'd have find even wider flares....

Dave

RE:      <<< Note 2033.7 by WLCSV0::EDWARDSB "Brian Edwards, Reading, UK" >>>
    
�    is unusual, but I plan on driving long distances. Similarly, the main
�    attraction of fuel-injection is the increase in mid-range torque.
    
    I'd venture to suggest that the cam you choose will have more bearing
    on this. I've got a Kent 286 in my Frogeye, power comes in about 2.5K
    and it's still pulling strongly at 6K. Also remember that it's air
    *flow* that's important, and injection or not, you'll still get
    induction roar with a K&N, and a bark with a Janspeed. If you choose to
    not fit either of those (or similar), you'll restrict your power output
    considerably.
    
    Laurie.

	I know that its a different car, but I have Webers with K&N filters
	and a Janspeed exhaust.  However, that exhaust goes into a 
	special *large* box (I do mean large it's 1 metre long), the set up
	is quite civilised.  Much more so than the previous exhaust that I
	had. Yes you do get induction roar (my engine sucks) but I don't find
	it too noisy at high speed.  Also it's quieter with the top down or
	with the hard top fitted.

	Dave

    Re:.8 Tyres. Well I did briefly consider the 175/50 x 13's but you
    really do have to do some serious wheelarch mods for those!
    
    Re:.9 Cams. I absolutely agree that cam choice is important and the 286
    is good for road use. The attraction of the fuel injection setup is
    that the close control of both fuelling and ignition does give good
    gains in the midrange. I don't have the paper with me, but the initial
    dyno tests off one development on a 1293 block, using a sprint cam and
    12:1 compression ratio with fuel injection gave 100BHP from 4000-7000
    rpm. The torque curve was very flat with enough torque to allow you to
    floor the throttle from 2000 rpm. This is quite impressive for an
    A-series, although it was using an Arden 8-port head as well.
    
    Having said all that I still have to convince myself that it is worth
    the money. There are some very good carburettored 1380cc lumps around.
    
    I agree that the exhaust system on tuned Minis is usually what creates
    the excess noise and that the intake roar from K&Ns is fun, but I don't
    agree that a loud exhaust is necessarily a good one. I plan on using an
    RC40 exhaust which is reasonably civilised and which David Vizard found
    to be more efficient than most of the louder alternatives. This is
    reckoned to be good for up to 125BHP. Has anyone tried one?
    
    Brian

RE:      <<< Note 2033.11 by WLCSV0::EDWARDSB "Brian Edwards, Reading, UK" >>>
                      -< Wheels cams and fuel injection >-

�    Having said all that I still have to convince myself that it is worth
�    the money. There are some very good carburettored 1380cc lumps around.
    
    I've got a 1400 single-carbed (SU HS6) in the Frogeye. No accurate or
    tested bhp figures, but we estimate 100bhp at the wheels. It'll pull 6K
    in 5th (120mph) no problem, and even with 3.7:1 diff, it'll pull 0-60
    in around 8 seconds. It was, and still is running like a pig. The head
    is a mess, with oil being dragged into the combustion chambers as the
    draining isn't yet right. Winter-work not yet started...
    
�     RC40 exhaust which is reasonably civilised and which David Vizard found
    
    I was recommended to get an RC40, but they don't make one for the
    Frogeye, so I settled for a Janspeed. Mind you, for a rag-top, the
    noise is half the fun!
    
    Laurie.

�    in around 8 seconds. It was, and still is running like a pig. The head
�    is a mess, with oil being dragged into the combustion chambers as the
�    draining isn't yet right. Winter-work not yet started...
    
    Still got this problem then, Laurie ?  Fixed the cooling ?
    
    You take even longer than I do to get things done !!!
    
    J.R.

    I haven't tried the RC40 on a Mini, but I adapted one to my Midget.
    
    I did this along with a number of other mods, so I don't have any 
    hard numbers on it, but it was REAL quiet, maybe a bit too quiet, 
    and it seemed to improve breathing, especially at higher revs.
    
    I wouldn't bother with the RC40 on a stock engine, but with a fairly 
    powerful engine, I'd do it again.
    
    Laurie - What 5-speed do you have in the Frogeye ?
    
    	- Bill
    

    I had an RC40 on my 1275 mini a few years ago. + spaghetti manifold +
    K+N filter
    
    It does make a difference and is barely noisier than standard - only
    when you really flatten the accelerator does it "burp" in a bit.
    
    Paul 

RE:              <<< Note 2033.13 by ESBS01::RUTTER "Rut The Nut" >>>

�    Still got this problem then, Laurie ?  Fixed the cooling ?
    
    Yeah, still got it! It's a question of getting round to draining the
    block, removing the head, and taking it back to England. In fact, I
    suspect that not only was it badly assembled (now fixed), but it was
    over-ported too. I just seem to be too busy. You know how it is... 
    
    What the cooling needs is better airflow. The air comes in through the
    hole at the from ok, but the only way it can escape is down the
    transmission tunnel. What I really need are vents in the bonnet, but
    I'm VERY reluctant to do that as it would make the car look "silly".
    It seems that a specialist makes a 3-core Fiesta rad that fits (the
    normal is 2-core, which I've got), and that, apparently, fixes it. I'll
    try one and see, but my engine does run very hot.
    
�    You take even longer than I do to get things done !!!
    
    I know, I know! ;^)
    
    Laurie.

RE:                     <<< Note 2033.14 by WMOIS::GAVIN_B >>>

�    I haven't tried the RC40 on a Mini, but I adapted one to my Midget.
    
    I'd be interested in knowing how this was done... I do like the noise
    the Janspeed makes though.
    
�    Laurie - What 5-speed do you have in the Frogeye ?
    
    Toyota erm... type escapes me for the moment... T50? It's the one
    fitted to the early Corolla (NOT Celica), circa 86-onwards I think. The
    bell-housing adaptor (beautifully made) came from the Morris Minor
    Centre in Bath, cost about 400 quid I recall. There are cheaper ones,
    but nowhere near this quality. You need a Toyota clutch plate, a midget
    Cover, and some mucking about with hydraulics. Prop-shaft is from the
    Corolla, and shortened to fit. Not too much trouble and a MAJOR
    improvement to the car.
    
    I got mine a few years ago, and I still have problems with the clutch
    taking full power (not an issue with the "standard" 1275 engine). I
    also have a shortened crank so the standard spigot bearing for the
    gearbox as supplied by MMC didn't fit properly. I suspect they'll have
    sorted both those problems out. I suppose I'd better ring and ask
    them... ;^) However, new clutch = engine out = I don't think so...
    
    Laurie.

    Fender flares - Back when I was racing Minis we had two versions of 
    fiberglass flares available as homologated options. The 'Special 
    Tuning' flares were popular on Coopers with 4.5"-5.0" wheels, while 
    the 'Group 2' flares were common on 'S's with 6" wheels. We mostly 
    used 10" diameter wheels, although 12" were also homologated. The 
    narrow flares would accept the stock fender edging pretty easily, 
    but the wider flares required some persuasion; for racing we didn't 
    bother with the edging. If I remember correctly, the ST flares were 
    about 2" wide, while the G2 were more like 4".
    
    RC40 Exhaust - I took a tape measure to my Mini and to my Midget and 
    verified that the distances were fairly close, then I more or less 
    just cut the mufflers out of the RC40. I had a long pipe made up to 
    run from the outlet of my exhaust header to the first muffler, located 
    in the stock position just to the left of the fuel tank. I positioned 
    it as far forward as I could without fouling the rear axle. I had a 
    piece of pipe bent 90 deg. to connect the first muffler to the second,
    located transversely, just behind the fuel tank, like a late-model 
    Midget. Another 90 deg section takes the exhaust out under the rear
    bumper. I used all stock mounting points and brackets, the only 
    changes were to accommodate the larger diameter of the pipes. My 
    exhaust header had a fairly large outlet, so I used an ordinary 
    pipe adaptor to attach it to the pipe.
    
    5-Speed - I've heard of the MMC kit, but was under the impression 
    that it wouldn't fit the Midget chassis due to the length of the 
    trans interfering with the stock crossmember.
    
    The A-series Datsun 5-speed seems to be the popular conversion over 
    here, but C/R gears are starting to be hard to find.
    
    Shortened crank ? Is this the Midget/Marina difference ? Is your 
    crank to Midget spec ?
    
    	- Bill
    

RE:                     <<< Note 2033.18 by WMOIS::GAVIN_B >>>
    
�    RC40 Exhaust - I took a tape measure to my Mini and to my Midget and 
    
    Thanks for that lot. I'll have a look-see and see what I can do. I've
    never been happy with the way the exhaust "looped" over the rear axle,
    it's so big, it fouls the hand-brake rods (when the h/b is on).
    
�    5-Speed - I've heard of the MMC kit, but was under the impression 
�    that it wouldn't fit the Midget chassis due to the length of the 
�    trans interfering with the stock crossmember.
    
    That may be true, I really don't know. I have a very non-standard
    chassis. It's a full space-frame one, and I recall we did have to
    modify it to fit the gearbox, but only a tiny bit.
    
�    Shortened crank ? Is this the Midget/Marina difference ? Is your 
�    crank to Midget spec ?
    
    The donor block was a 1300 Marina, chosen for the stroke. We were
    advised by MMC to shorten the crank (by I think 1/16") to accomodate
    the gearbox. Unfortunately, this meant the standard spigot bearing
    simply fell out of the crank, however, fortunately we only trimmed
    1/32". In retrospect, trimming it was a mistake. I doubt it's to any
    spec now! If I hadn't had it Tuft-rided, I'd have reverted to a
    standard one when I rebuilt the engine.
    
    May I suggest that rather than clog up this topic with Sprite stuff, we
    take this to the Healey Frogeye topic, 1262?
    
    Cheers, Laurie.

    You need to watch bends in the exaust pipe - David Wisards' book on mini
    tuning is very clear about that - a wrong or too sharp bend, and you
    are spoiling some of the extraction charecteristics of the exaust pipe.
    I seem to remember his recomendation was to use as much pipe as
    necessary to make bends gradual, and avoid sudden 90 degrees.
    
    Paul

    Yeah, I knew about that. Common-sense really, if you think about it!
    Mind you, there are a lot of production cars about with downright silly
    exhaust systems in terms of air-flow.
    
    Laurie.

	Yes, the Marlin's is a Janspeed from the rhs of the engine, the
	pipes then runs straight through a large box and to the rear,
	under the axle and then a slight rise to the back of the car.

	Dave

    I have just got in after an entertaining day with the angle
    grinder. I went down to Mini Spares and aquired a set of Group 13
    wheelarches, which are fibreglass. The front are now fitted, and look
    very smart, although they still have to be sprayed satin black. The
    work with the angle grinder has relieved the wing inderneath
    sufficiently that there is now ample clearance. The arches are also
    wide enough that I can definitely claim to have the tyres fully
    covered. 
    
    Overall they have solved the problem and will look very smart when
    painted, for a reasonable price (around 60 pounds all in). They are
    quite fiddly to fit, which is why the rears are to be left until next
    weekend.
    
    The combination of the wider tyres and Koni shock absorbers has
    greatly improved both the ride and road holding without making the
    steering too heavy. 
    
    Brian