Conference terri::cars_uk

    I had the same failure on my girlfriends Metro 1.0L, the rear nearside
    radius arm bush died on us. I had the car in Halfords service centre in
    Reading and it obviously failed its MOT. They gave me a quote, and I
    shopped around - they were very reasonable indeed.
    	The work involved removing a welded on bracket and radius arm and
    replacing it with the later style which bolted on. I cant remember the
    cost but I will find out for you.
    	With regard to doing it yourself, the part will cost about 100
    pounds. If you have the tools it should be fairly straight forward, be
    carefull when depresurising the system. When youve replaced the radius
    arm, if the garage that can pump it up for you is near you could drive
    to it with probably no adverse affect on your suspension. If its a long
    way then maybe you could pump it up with air and drive very slowly and
    carefully - I dont know for sure.
    	My honest advice would be to leave it to the profesionals though.
    Shop around and get some quotes, if you go to Halfords like I did they
    wont charge you if it goes over their estimate.
    
   Andy

    You can obtain a repair kit which costs about 40 quid. It is made up of
    a needle bearing which is fitted into the sleeve of the arm, unless of
    course you have failed to notice the knocking coming off the back-end!  
    
    If you ain't heard any knocking than the repair kit will suffice, if on
    the other hand the knocking is apparent, then you will probably need
    the whole arm assembly (145 quid).
    
    Unless you know what you are doing, then get a garage to fit the repair
    kit or the complete arm. There is approximately 2-3 hours of labour
    costs involved, regardless of which option your car requires.
    
    TIP: Always GREASE these bearings every 6000 miles. Start by doing the 
    other side NOW, before it too packs up!
    
    Cheers...John.
    

    Hi Guys,
    
    	Thanks for the input.  In the end I managed to get hold of the
    Radius arm repair kit (as you said, it was about �25.00), and yes it
    was a real s*d of a job.  It took me about day, with a little help from
    a friend.
    
    	Thankfully with the radius arm and a few other jobies sorted, the
    old banger passed the M.O.T, (including the emission test, which
    suprised me)......Next time though, I'll let the garage do the
    work...........
    
    
    Thanks again,
    
    
    Ben

�.2 ...anyone know why my Metro judders, as if its not firing properly, at
�.2 around 50-70mph in 4th?
    
    When did you last have your wheels balanced?

    Martin.

    
    
    re: .2 anyone know why my metro  judders.........
    
    when did it last have a PROPER service?
    
    is this the same car with the "worn-out rotor arm"
    
    Richard

    The rotor arm was replaced about 3 weeks ago by Mr. RAC man.
    
    D'ya reckon it's the wheel balancing? It seems as if it's the engine
    that's faulty?!?
    
    It last had a proper service back in June and has had a proper service
    every 6 months of it's life!
    
    Trev$stilljudderingalongtheM4!

    Nope, it's not the wheels, it something to do with the engine.
    
    Dan$who's been in it

    What's your Diagnosis Daniel?

    
    I experienced a simliar problem with a VW Jetta, in extreme cases such
    as a long motorway journey at fairly constant speeds it would start to
    smoke a lot and then stop, starting again after a minute or two.
    
    The cause of all this turned out to be a small hole in the fuel line,
    which eventually starved the engine of petrol as it sucked in more and
    more air - particularly at higher revs...
    
    hope this helps,
    
    
    Graham 

    Now that's sounds like a feasible explaination for what's going on.
    Except there is no smoke, and it isn't only long motorway journeys.
    Apart from that it sounds like like a probable cause!

    
    How old is this Metro? how about the condensor if it's old enough to
    have one.
    They can cause all sorts of funnies! Basically if nothing else cures it
    and it's got a condensor swap it! their fairly cheap �2 ish but rarely
    changed!
    
    Richard

    Its a 1986 D Reg City, does that help?

    I'm pretty sure it's an ignition problem rather than fuel, but don't
    quote me on that :-)

	If I were you, I'd replace the plugs, leads, points,
	condensor and distributor cap for starters.   It's 
	not expensive and it's a good idea before the real
	damp weather sets in.   Then check all fuel and air
	hoses for splits etc and any that look dodgy, replace.

	Dave

    
    
    I'll go with -.1
    
    Richard
    
    Ps what about the coil

	Go mad, replace the coil too.  I must admit that I've
	never had a coil go.  Despite once leaving the MG's
	ignition on over night - the coil was warm in the morning
	and the battery was flat.  I replaced that one anyway.

	Obviously, when you replace the points and condenser it's	
	a good idea to set the gap correctly, preferably with a
	dwell meter.

	Oh and if it's got an SU carb, check that the damper is full of
	oil.

	Dave

    
    ....replacing everything in sight, works with TV's, competers, HiFi's
    and even cars....
    
    what it doesn't do is find the cause !
    
    ...if a quids worth of petrol hose is at fault, I'd feel pretty daft
    having replaced all the electrics; and as I know of someone who bought
    a brand new *faulty* coil, you could just introduce another problem...
    
    anyway, good luck, whatever's causing the problem.
    
    Graham
    
    BTW, carb's sound plausible as well, esp. if you've run it low/out of
    petrol at any time.
    

    Why not join the RAC, AA & National Breakdown, & then go to your
    nearest motorway, call out the above organisations one by one & share 
    your experiences with us in this topic ?
    
    Tony.

    Hi
    
    I wonder if anyone can give me some advice I think I might be in danger
    of being ripped off by my Rover dealer...
    
    I have a 1994 (May) Rover Metro 1.4Si and there have been a couple of
    niggly problems appearing lately.   It is still under 1st year warranty
    and I have bought extra warranty, but I would like to sort the problems
    out whilst its still in first year warranty.
    
    The problems are:
    
    1. Central locking intermittent on drivers door - fixed by Rover who
       replaced the mechanism.
    
    2. Fuel gauge - shows empty when in fact it still has over 10 litres
       left - Rover say it can't fix this.
    
    3. Brakes - I asked them to look at the brakes when it went in to get
       the central locking fixed.  They said they needed to be stripped and
       cleaned and that this would add �40-50 to the service.
    
    4. Suspension - if you put 4 people in the car the back wheel arch on 
       the drivers side goes down and the tyre scrapes - when everyone gets
       out there is a significant difference between the drivers side wheel
       arch and the passenger side - this seems to rectify itself over
       time.   
    
    
    I took the car to a local garage to get the wheels balances and
    tracking done and they 'cleaned' the brakes - blew dirt out of the back
    ones and roughened the pads on the front ones - is there anything else
    that Rover will do that warrants them charging �50!!?
    
    This suspension problem originally occured last November - they said
    they had fixed it but I don't carry 4 people very much so I only
    noticed it wasn't fixed a couple of weeks ago.
    
    I'd like to know: 
    	What is causing it?
    	Is it dangerous? /doing any permanent damage to the car?
    	Should I be insisting they REPLACE something rather than make
        adjustments - and if so, what?
        What would you recommend I do about the brakes?
    
    It is going in for its 12K service + suspension problems next Tuesday
    and I'd like to know a bit more about what I should be asking before I
    go.....
    
    I am currently driving about 450 miles a week so its important that it
    is fixed, and that its safe to drive.
    
    
    
    Thanks in advance
    
    
    
    Xtine 
    	

    >>2. Fuel gauge - shows empty when in fact it still has over 10 litres
    >>left - Rover say it can't fix this.
    
    I imagine this is a 'feature'. Our Metro GTi (J-reg, I presume very
    much like the 1.4Si in spec?) seems to have a pessimistic fuel gauge.
    
    >>3. Brakes
    
    Are they vented or solid? Certainly �40-50 just to rough up the pads is
    a bit much, but I think when it comes down to 'wear-and-tear' the
    manufacturers can define what is 'normal wear-and-tear' and hence
    charge you for what they could regard as 'excess' !! See what I mean?
    When it comes to saying "My tyres have worn down too much" or "My
    brakes have worn down too much" I don't think it will cur very far with
    Rover or, indeed, any other manufacturer.
    
    >>4. Suspension
    
    What wheels/tyres do you have? Is it the 5.5x13 rims and the 185/55HR13
    tyres? They shouldn't rub, I imagine. We've had the Metro loaded up to
    the full and no arches were rubbed... is there any difference between
    the rear arches and suspension on the old GTi? Apart from a roll bar, I
    can't think of any difference.
    
    Maybe your hydragas needs pumping up.
    
    As for the ride height difference from side to side after unloading,
    this is normal and should rectify itself as soon as you get moving
    again. It is not in itself a cause for concern unless it doesn't level
    off. As for the rubbing arches, well all I can say is we've never had
    this problem on the family's Metro so maybe you could get them to take
    a look.....
        
    Therefore my educated-guess answers are:
    
    >>What is causing it?
    	Minor leak in the hydragas system (it always tends to go down over
    	time anyway, and is nothing to just have pumped up a bit).
    
    >>Is it dangerous? /doing any permanent damage to the car?
    	You might find excessive tyres wear on the wheels affected, and a
    	compromise in ride comfort, but apart from that....
    
    >>Should I be insisting they REPLACE something rather than make
    >>adjustments - and if so, what?
    	Ask them to check for leaks again, as you suspect one somewhere.
    
    >>What would you recommend I do about the brakes?
    	Depends on your driving style I suppose.... new pads, or maybe the
    discs are glazed.... did you follow the 'bedding-in' rules when you
    purchased the car ?!?!
    
    CHeers,
    Dan

The Type Approval regs say (in so many words) that no part of the 
wheel shall touch any part of the bodywork over the full travel 
allowed by the suspension. On this basis I think your Metro, or all 
Metros are illegal :-)

- John.
 

>>   2. Fuel gauge - shows empty when in fact it still has over 10 litres
>>      left - Rover say it can't fix this.

That's right, can't be fixed.  My 111SL (93 model) shows the same - goes
rapidly down to reserve and then sits there until I run out of petrol
about 90 miles later.
  
>>   4. Suspension - if you put 4 people in the car the back wheel arch on 
>>      the drivers side goes down and the tyre scrapes - when everyone gets
>>      out there is a significant difference between the drivers side wheel
>>      arch and the passenger side - this seems to rectify itself over
>>      time.   

The suspension needs pumping up (costs about �40 to do in France).  My
111SL's sump/exhaust was touching the ground on some bumpy roads (we have
many of them here in C�te d'Azur) when fully loaded.

I still find the carrosserie sits low though.

Regards,  Geoff.

    Is this 'pumping up' something I just have to have done every 3 months or so
    (or when I put 4 people in)... or should I insist they replace the
    hydro-gas things... (especially if they are leaking)... 
    
    
    Xtine

    It shouldn't go down that soon, hence why I suggested you get them to
    look for a leak, or else explain the loss of fluid!
    
    Cheers,
    Dan

    regarding the fuel guage, don't worry. On my 420 it hurtles rapdily
    down to empty and then lets me drive for a further 100 miles. Crapzy
    really, but better than saying it is a �full and then I run out.
    
    Ref the hydragas, it definitely sounds like a leak. Pumping it up will
    solve things in the short term, but it shouldn't go down that quick so
    get Rover to check again.
    
    Clive

    
    re:.0
    
    (4)
    Sounds as though it's just not pumped up to the correct pressure.
    
    or...
    
    Maybe either the seals are knackered on that particular suspension
    strut, or something has been rubbing against it to make a gap that the
    gas is leaking out from.  On my old Metro the exhaust was a bit loose
    and eventually went through the gas pipe, it didn't just lose it all
    though, it was over a few months - like a gradual leak.
    
    
    C.
    

    I am getting Rover to look at it again, but I just wanted to know if
    these things always leaked - or should I be insisting they replace it
    as the car is <1year old.
    
    
    
    Xtine

    Replace or fix - yes. (Replace is obviously more favourable!)

    
    re:.8
    
    Dan will know more 'bout this than I do, but they normally need pumping
    up maybe after 5/6 years or some fair length of time.
    
    C.

    Well, one every 2 years was fairly common for my old metro. I'd say
    anything shorter than 12 months, and there's something wrong.

    Okey Doke
    
    Since this has already been done once since I got the car in September - 
    I think I will try and insist they replace it.
    
    Will let you know what happens... seeing them tonight!
    
    
    Xtine

    
    
    
    
    A sorry (and long - I apologise) tale...
    
    I am NOT impressed with the garage - after being stuck on the M25 for
    nearly 1.5hrs from the M4 - M1 I was too tired to argue as vigourously
    as I would have liked... but the outcome was...
    
    They pumped up the suspension - no explanation of why except - "it
    adjusts the height of the wheel trim" - they said normally it would be a
    non-warranty item but out of the goodness of their hearts they had done
    it for free - I pointed out the car is less than one year old, it
    shouldn't have needed done in the first place - and that there MUST be
    some reason why it needed to be done and if that reason was going to
    reoccur then it should be fixed - I was banging my head against a brick
    wall so I gave up.
    
    Then the fuel - I told them "I did 180 miles and the needle got to the
    lowest point - below red - then I did 45 more miles, at which point I
    cr*pped out and filled up - 26 litres, but the car is supposed to hold
    35.8l according to my book"
    
    They said "well,your tank has a 30.5 litre capacity so if you can fill
    it with 26 litres thats ideal because it leaves some room for error so
    you don't run out"  I tried to explain that even if the tank is only
    30.5 litre capacity that leaves me approx 30% of its capacity for
    safety!  I guess after it hits red there's about 100 or so miles left
    in it!  He said "Oh, well at least you'll never run out"... pointing
    out to him that 180 miles (full-empty) means I have to go to the garage
    EVERY day cut no ice... I gave up...
    
    Theres a problem with central locking on the back passenger door - "We
    tried it, it works fine..." - yes its f***ng INTERMITTENT... I gave
    up..
    
    At this point I said how much do I owe for the service - he
    says �104... I said hang on you quoted me �84 when I booked it in 2
    weeks ago - "Yes, we've just had a price rise" - when I pointed out 25%
    is ridiculous he said it was to cover the cost of the better quality
    oil they've recently started using - by this time I was so stressed
    that he took pity and said he'd reduce it to what they quoted - but if
    I hadn't complained?
    
    On the way out I commented 'well, at least my alarm will work now the
    battery's been replaced' - "What? We don't replace that till the 24,000
    miles service" - well my book says every year/12,000 but as it was now
    7pm the stores were locked so I have to go back AGAIN for a battery...
    
    I wonder what else they didn't do??
    
    Finally, when I got home I noticed the invoice says
    
    Rover Metro 1.1 - mines a 1.4i - hope this doesn't mean they've done
    the wrong service all together.
    
    
    So, in summary - if you want your car serviced in Milton Keynes then I
    do not recommend BMG Rover.
    
    
    Can anyone recommend a Rover dealer in Reading/Maidenhead/Aylesbury 
    /High Wycombe as all those are on route from MK to Thames Valley Park.
    
    
    Xtine
    

    
    Xtine,
    
    sorry to hear you're having so much trouble with a Rover dealer, I've
    found the ones I've dealt with a lot more helpful than the norm. The
    kind of rubbish you're getting reminds me a lot of Newbury Instant
    Motors, the now defunct (and deservedly so) Vauxhall dealer.
    
    I found David Ruskin (Winnersh) helpful a few years ago when I was 
    looking to buy a car, but I can't comment on their servicing as I
    bought a Vauxhall at that time (I'm over it now, though :^)).
    
    Mark 

    There used to be a good Rover dealer on the A4 between Twyford and
    Maidenhead. Knowl Hill Motors, or something similar. This is going back
    a few years mind, but my Dad never had anything other than excellent
    service from them.
    
    Clive

    I pass Knowlhill every time I come in from MK - I think I will try them
    out....
    
    
    Xtine

	Knowl Hill Garage ceased to be a Rover dealer some years 
	back. It was Isuzu last time I noticed but that was a long 
	time ago too.

	-John_who_used_to_live_there

    Well, must've got Rover back... cos it was Rover on Monday...!
    
    
    Xtine
    
    ps. wonder why it lost the dealership?

    
    I don't think garages actually lose dealerships, rather the owners do a
    deal with a manufacturer to sell their cars based on discounts, margins
    etc... Then one day it either isn't working out, or they can get a
    better deal elsewhere so the garage leaves the dealership.
    
    Graham

        I don't know about other makes, but a Rover 'dealership' is just 
        a franchise. You can buy one like a "Body Shop" store or a
        Bettaware round!
        
        Ian.

    
    Re: last few.
    
    However, it IS possible for a dealer to be dis-enfranchised. I know of
    two dealers that this happened to.
    
    Mark

This is what all the fuss about Daewoo is.  Instead of having franchised 
dealerships, all "Motor shows" (read "showrooms") are owned by Daewoo.  This 
gives them total control over how their cars are being sold.  

    
    Funny, I thought all the 'fuss' about Daewoo was advertising hype :^)
    
    Mark

that too.  Mind you, they don't need to advertise - the motoring press/media 
are doing a good enough job for them.

    
    There's a lot of very crap dealerships out there, so anything that
    Daewoo are doing can't be a bad thing.  'Honest' pricing and OK
    trade-in's should give 'em a head start...but the biggest benefit to
    buyers will probably be the lack of a del-boy (no offence meant to Mr
    Thatcher if he's reading this!) type character laughing at the price 
    they want for their old car as a trade-in...
    
    Chris.