Conference terri::cars_uk

    Mark.
    
    Assuming that's all you want to know, ie. you've fitted the dizzy
    properly in respect of the cam timing:
    
    1) Rotate the engine until such time that the timing marks in the lower
       pulley are in the appropriate place.
    2) Look at the points, they should be open.
    3) If not; loosen the retaining nut on the dizzy.
       3a) Rotate the dizzy body until such time as the points are open.
           Bear in mind that the rotor arm should be pointing at the "lead"
              for the appropriate plug (probably 1).
       3b) Tighten the the retaining nut on the dizzy.
    4) Start engine!
    
    Laurie.
    
    PS. The Haynes manual for a car fitted with that engine should cover
        this. It's an Essex V6 isn't it?

    
    Yeah,
    
    I THOUGHT there was a way of using a light (on a wire) to ensure the
    timing was right. This dates back to my 18th year (a long time ago)
    when I did some car mechanics lessons. I never used the method, though.
    
    I'll try the way you describe (and, as you say, Haynes do) at the
    weekend.
    
    Thanks.
    
    Mark

    
    Mark,
    
    If you make up a circuit using the points and a bulb, the bulb will
    glow all the time the points are closed. However, as soon as the
    points start to open the bulb will go out... which is a bit easier
    to see than points starting to open.
    
    Richard.
    
    

    Except, you need the points fully open, not just a bit...
    
    Laurie.

    ...The spark is generated at the instant the points start to open,
    thats when the field in the coil primary collapses. The reason that the
    points must fully open (later) is to allow for full discharge of the
    ignition circuit.
    
    
    	Tony.

    ...and to make it even easier to use your light-bulb; just connect it
    ACROSS the points (with couple of croc clips) and rotate the crankshaft
    until the light just COMES ON. Check the position of the timing marks -
    adjust the distributor position if necesary and repeat until you get it
    as close as possible.
    
    Note that you will need the ignition switched on if you use this method
    so make sure the plug leads are off the plugs just in case something
    fires!
    
    I have found that on checking with a strobe afterwards that I usually
    get the static timing to within two degrees or so using this method.
    
    - John.
    

	Fancy you not knowing this!
	
	Or try this -

	1. Make sure No 1 cyl is at TDC (marks will line up 180� opposite
	too) and align timing mark.

	2. Remove distributor cap to prevent engine accidentally firing.

	3. Turn on ignition, and turn on radio full volume tuned to
	a non-existant station.

	4. Centralise the 'micrometer' adjustment thingy on the distributor.

	5. Rotate distributor body from where the points are closed towards
	where they open. At the point they open a loud click will be heard 
	from the radio, and thats where it needs to be.

	6. Susequent dynamic tuning can then be done using the micrometer
	adjuster.

	-John

	And if the distributor has been removed or timing chain off
	then the distributor needs to be fitted such that the arm
	points to No 1 cylinder when 1 is at TDC as the first step.

	-John

    
    What radio?
    
    Mark

	The radio in the calibra. AM of course, old cars don't radiate
	encoded FM.

    ... and always time the car by turning the engine the right way, there
    is a lot of slack in the timing path. When checking that the
    distributor rotor points to the plug lead #1, also check that both
    valves are closed for that cylinder when at TDC.