Conference terri::cars_uk

All these problems sound as if they could be "choke" related, is it feasible to 
suggest that you get a reliable mechanic to look at the way the choke has been 
fitted ?

Don't be tempted to go back to the original automatic choke, though.  I had 
a chronic problem (which seems fairly common) with my golf that lasted for
1� years until I sold it - the car was in the garage for 2 days out of the week 
for *EVERY* week of that 1� years with VW trying to fix the problem (cold 
starting was non-existant).

    I'm beginning to doubt the marketing strategy of VW based on
    'reliability'. 
    
    My 16V GTI is a year old with 10,000 miles and since
    I've had it it's had an intermittent problem where the engine 'hunts' up
    and down in a cycle from about 200 to 1500 revs - sometimes it stalls and 
    the only way to retstart it is with full throttle. The problem will
    usually cure itself within a few minutes and it usually happens once
    a week on average.
    
    It's been back to the dealer five times, its had a new Idle stabilization
    valve, and warm up regulator fitted but they can't cure it! Of course
    when it goes into the garage it behaves itself! Actually the garage 
    have been very good about the whole thing - it's now mystifying them
    and the next move is for them to transport it to VW at Milton Keynes
    for them to look at it.
    
    The 16V uses the k-Jetronic (mechanical) fuel injection so there's no 
    computer to misbehave (although there is a small control unit for the
    idle stab valve, but they've checked that).
    
    -Roy

Well, I've got a 4 year old Golf GTI with 100,000 miles on the clock, I have 
found the car very reliable, starts first time every time (touch wood...) and
apart from the usual tyres/battery/exhaust replacements has been relatively
cheap to service and run.

However, sometimes (usually after a service) the revs do hunt between 700 and
1200 rpm after a motorway run - this is usually cured by adjusting the idle
slightly - the garages seem to adjust it on a warm not a hot engine. The 
tickover then sits quite happily at 1100rpm until the next service. I have also
found that different dealers have their calibration equipment at different 
states of 'tune' (drifts with time and temperature etc) so that a supposedly
perfect setup from a service gave out of setup readings at a different dealer
(I watched the second CO calibration) a couple of days later.

Do you get your 'hunting' problem when the engine is hot afer a long/hard drive
??

Nigel

RE:    <<< Note 1523.3 by METSYS::WINNETT "Oui 3 Ski - I'd rather be skiing" >>>
    
� tickover then sits quite happily at 1100rpm until the next service. I have also
      
    TICKOVER?!?!?!?!?!?!
    
    At 1100 rpm?
    
    C'mon, Laurie.

Yes - the problem only occurs when the engine is warm. It always starts 
when pulling up at a junction etc - the engine will die. If I turn it over
without any throttle it won't start. Foot flat to the floor and it starts
and then hunts, sometimes it goes up to 1500 rpm and then dies, othertimes
it will just 'catch' and go up to 1500 then back down.....the fault goes
away on its own. Sometimes it won't happen for 2-3 weeks other times it will
be 2-3 times in one week. I wish it would pack up altogether then the garage
would be able to identify it!

Apart from this I've no complaints but it's been dragging on for eight months
now and I've had �500-�600 (including labour) of new parts fitted in the 
process (under warrenty).

-Roy

Central Garages have just phoned me with the reply from VW UK. VW have told
Central to fit a new metering head (�320) - they think the existing one may be
sticking - and another warm up regulator (�200) which has been slightly modified 
and is fitted to the Audi quattro (don't ask me why).

They seem to be throwing a lot of money at this, @�1200 so far - just glad it's
not mine!

-Roy

re .4

Whats wrong with 1100rpm tickover ??

Nigel (who suspects you read it as 11000rpm... now that would be a little high
 :-)

    
    RE Variable tickover speeds.
    
    I had this problem on my series three landrover, cut out when hot, rpm
    varying from 500 to 1000.
    
    It all came down to a very small air leak at the carburettor/manifold
    joint, impossible to hear when the engine was running but there all the
    same.
    
    Problem solved with the use of a new gasket and Hermatite Instant
    Gasket.
    
    Now ticks over at 600rpm warm or hot.
    
    Tony
    

    I'd worry more about your judder. 
    
    Firstly; check the state of your tyres. I don't just mean the tread
    level. Look for flat-spots, where the casing has bust.
    
    My Audi had a really bad judder. The garage checked everything, until
    finally they rotated the rear wheels and found a flat spot!. The tread
    wear was minimal, but the tyre had failed internally.
    
    I changed the tyre....guess what? it drove like new again.
    
    This may sound rather silly, but you'd be surprised just what a busted
    tyre can do! 
                

RE:    <<< Note 1523.7 by METSYS::WINNETT "Oui 3 Ski - I'd rather be skiing" >>>

� Whats wrong with 1100rpm tickover ??
    
    It's far too high, that's what. It should be around 600-800rpm, and if
    it won't tick over at 800rpm, then there's something wrong somewhere.

    If nothing else, it's a waste of fuel, especially in stop-start
    traffic.
    
� Nigel (who suspects you read it as 11000rpm... now that would be a little high

    Nope, I didn't.
    
    
    Laurie.
    

�� Whats wrong with 1100rpm tickover ??
�    
�    It's far too high, that's what. It should be around 600-800rpm, and if
�    it won't tick over at 800rpm, then there's something wrong somewhere.
    
    Certainly, especially on a fuel injected engine.
    
    Even my knackered old Manta will tickover at about 700rpm.
    
    What speed does it run at when the 'choke' is in action ?
    (not really a choke, I know - but richens the mixture when cold)
    
    J.R.

    I used to have an '81 GOLF with 125,000 miles on the clock and it
    appears that I had the same problem as yourself. I took the car to an
    engine tuning specialist here in Galway there is only the one really
    and he told me that I either needed a VW carb kit which comprises of a
    new set of jets and seals at a cost of IR32 punts not including the
    fitting, or the rubber mounting between the carb and intake manifold
    IR60 punts. I didn't actually get the chance to have the work done as
    the car was written off soon after. However I reckoned that getting a
    new carb and rubber in a scrap yard. I think that you have another
    problem with the juddering (can you feel this through the steering) going 
    around left-hand bends as the carb etc. only affects the engine both 
    tickover and pickup.
    
    	Cheers,
    
    		Denis...

<<< Note 1523.12 by ESSB::NEAVYN "European Software Supply Business, Galway, Ireland" >>>
                          -< VW Carb kit Solution ! >-

The VW Carb kit Solution sounds like something to look into. 
I don't think the juddering has got anything to do with tyres or other 
suspension related problems. I'll explain again what happens. The actual 
judder or maybe I'll call it engine keeping back, it just stops going for a 
second, starts in or after a fast lefthander. After this has occured it will 
continue to do so for about half a mile. It will go alright but irregularly it 
will stop for a second and on low speeds (10 m/h) or when I depress the clutch
pedal it will actually stall. I think it is either the carburettor or some kind 
of electrical problem. The carburettor is the main suspect though. 


P.S.
A useful Golf tip. It is very simple to take the rear seat out of the car.
(We are moving at the moment.) If you tip the seat forward and follow the two
black bars on either side, you will see they have a clip that can easily be 
removed. As they are the only two things holding the seat it can then be taken 
out. Be careful though not to damage your car with the two bars.  

Derek