T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
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1160.1 | How not to get overheated | LARVAE::WALKER | | Mon Jul 23 1990 13:24 | 14 |
| ..................OVERHEATING...........................
I dont want to worry you but the use of two head gaskets is unlikely to
last very long. The seal between the pistons will probably fail and the
oilway joint between the block and head will not be very effective
(known problem on these engines.)
Back to the original problem, I suggest you check the timing is not
over advanced and that the radiator waterways are clear.
Disconnect top and bottom hoses from rad and flush with hosepipe until
clear water emerges or use proprietary cleaner for cooling systems.
Adrian
|
1160.2 | Been there, done that... | PEKING::HASTONM | Emm | Mon Jul 23 1990 14:01 | 9 |
| My Polo did the same thing...temp gauge on the wrong side of normal.
Tested the temp when the cooling fan cut in & that was fine (and
the main thing!). Reasoned that the gauge was reading `high' by
a few mm and thereafter ignored. I'g go with the previous reply
and check the essentials e.g. Timing, mixture tho' flushing the
radiator is probably only required if you've been running without
anti-freeze (or highly diluted). Then again maybe a change of
anti-freeze will improve things as it (the mixture) is better at
`losing' heat than neat H�O.
|
1160.3 | Keep it clean outside too! | UKCSSE::ARBISER | mice one squirrel | Tue Jul 24 1990 10:11 | 16 |
|
I run a Golf and suffered similar problems last year. Adding radflush
and running for 30 minutes helped enormously. This I decided to do as
the colour of the fluid, as seen in the header tank, was decidedly murky!
However, during the winter I noticed an increase again in running
temperature, noteably while idling in traffic, but also when giving it
welly down the M4. I lived with this until March when I took the car
for a steam clean. I asked the operator of the equipment to go over the
outside of the rad, which he did. Voil� it did the trick. I imagine
over the years the little alluminium fins had become caked in dead
flies, etc. and this had impared cooling efficiency. So tip of the day
is to check the condition of the rads' front face and ensure it is
squeaky clean.
- Ian
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1160.4 | moved by moderator | UKCSSE::RDAVIES | I can't trype for nits! | Wed Nov 21 1990 13:21 | 25 |
| <<< MARVIN::DISK$TOOLS:[NOTES$LIBRARY]CARS_UK.NOTE;1 >>>
-< CARS_UK conference >-
================================================================================
Note 2.8 DIRECTORY 8 of 8
KIRKTN::LDICKHOFF 18 lines 21-NOV-1990 09:27
-< HELP!! Polo coolant >-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Moderator,
I've got a problem with loosing coolant and don't know where to look in
this file (new noter you see). Can you point me in the right direction?
Make: VW Polo C
year: 1986 (D)
milage: 40,000
Problem: level of coolant in external tank drops significantly; been to
the garage (A Clark, Edinburgh) where I bought it 2nd hand a year
ago. They pressure tested the system, but couldn't find anything.
As far as I know, it is supposed to be a closed system; it
should not loose anything.
Is there anybody out there............
Thanks in advance,
Leon
South Queensferry Mfg
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1160.5 | Internal leak? | OASS::BURDEN_D | He's no fun, he fell right over | Wed Nov 21 1990 14:19 | 5 |
| Do you get any white smoke (steam) out the tail pipe? You could have a leak
through the head gasket (or block) into the engine itself. With 40k on it,
it's not normal, unless it's been overheated or otherwise abused.
Dave
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1160.6 | | KERNEL::SHELLEYR | Adios, amoeba _m_���_m_ | Wed Nov 21 1990 16:10 | 15 |
| Re: .4
Leon, when you say the level drops significantly in the expansion tank,
how often do you need to top it up ? The cars I've had with this sort
of cooling system have still needed to be topped up from time to time.
Ensure that you always check the level when the engine is cold.
It is unlikely to be head gasket problems if the system has been
pressure tested.
Also, when the car is running normally is the temperature gauge showing
a normal reading all the time or does it vary at all ?
- Roy (Whose had head gaskets go before)
|
1160.7 | | KERNEL::PARRY | 16 bits R SXy | Wed Nov 21 1990 16:30 | 15 |
| >It is unlikely to be head gasket problems if the system has been
>pressure tested.
Since when did running diagnostics always find the problem :-)
A quick check for something like this is by examining the oil.
If you have a mixture that is not unlike Bailey's Irish Cream, you
have a problem.
What do you mean by "external tank" ? Shouldn't you be checking
the radiator, did you mean the radiator. My Fiat has an external
plastic tank connected to the cooling system which is for overflow,
it shouldn't really have anything in at all, as far as I know.
TP
|
1160.8 | Some garage....... | KIRKTN::LDICKHOFF | | Wed Nov 21 1990 16:47 | 13 |
| I'm impressed by the speedy replies..................
Oil doesnot look like Bailey (might become an addict otherwise)
Temp Gauge: gets to normal and stays there.
External tank: is really a plastic tank and as per the handbook should
contain fluid up till the MAX mark.
However; I phoned A Clark (to moan) and much to my surprise they offered to
double check everything free of charge!! I'll keep you noters posted...
Cheers,
Flying Dutchman
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1160.9 | no cap | OASS::BURDEN_D | He's no fun, he fell right over | Wed Nov 21 1990 18:05 | 11 |
| If the Polo is anothing like the Golfs and Foxes, there is no 'radiator cap',
per se. The expansion tank has a cap on it and that's how you top off the
system.
For complete refills it's easier to disconnect the top radiator hose and dump
most of it in there.
It might be worthwhile steam cleaning the entire engine. This makes looking for
leaks easier.
Dave
|
1160.10 | | KERNEL::SHELLEYR | Adios, amoeba _m_���_m_ | Wed Nov 21 1990 18:09 | 18 |
| The plastic "external tank" is known as an expansion bottle. On
sealed systems they are connected to the top of the radiator
underneath the cap. When it builds up pressure the vent under the
cap opens to release the coolant. On the old systems it just overflowed
hence the need to top up regularly. With the sealed system the coolant
goes into the expansion tank. So when you've been on a long run
and you check the exp. tank the level will be higher than when the
engine is cold.
The problem comes as Trevor says, when the level in the radiator
drops but there is still coolant in the exp. bottle. As you may
think all is hunky dory but in fact have hardly any coolant in the
system. This happened to me on a TR7 where you needed to top up the
coolant at the thermostat housing, I didn't know this, there was
coolant in the exp. bottle, but hardly anything in the system and
it overheated.
- Roy
|
1160.11 | | OVAL::ALFORDJ | Ice a speciality | Wed Nov 21 1990 18:13 | 3 |
|
This sounds like an internal leak in the head gasket.
|
1160.12 | More on expansion tanks | IOSG::MARSHALL | Waterloo Sunset | Wed Nov 21 1990 19:06 | 32 |
| "Old" style expansion tanks work as described in a couple of earlier replies.
Newer cooling systems ahve no radiator cap; the pressure cap is on the expansion
bottle. This bottle is connected directly to the cooling system (ie there is
no valve restricting fluid flow in either direction). It may be connected to
the radiator, or in my case (Sierra 1769cc CVH engine) to the water-cooled
inlet manifold. I suppose it could connect anywhere really...
With this sort of system, the expansion tank should be kept topped up to the
line marked "Max". If the level drops quickly or regularly then there is a leak
somewhere.
So to summarise: an old style system has a radiator cap with pressure-relief
valve, with the overflow pipe going to an expansion tank with an ordinary cap.
This sort of expansion tank should normally be empty.
A new-style one has no radiator cap, the expansion tank being connected
directly to the cooling system. It may or may not have a pressure-relief valve
on the cap. This type of tank should be kept full.
Now my own question:
I have been told that having the radiator too high or too low in relation to the
engine can cause the head gasket to fail. I presume this is because pressure
builds up in the wrong places, or air pockets form, etc. How can you (or
rather I) work out the correct position for a radiator, given that:
a) the radiator isn't the standard one for the engine (it's tall and thin
rather than short and wide)
b) I don't know the position of the original, although I could find out if it's
essential...
Scott
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1160.13 | head gasket...... | KIRKTN::LDICKHOFF | | Fri Nov 23 1990 15:22 | 11 |
| Re: coolant loss
Garage just phoned me that after keeping it pressurized overnite they
think the headgasket is leaking into the exhaust. As they are not VW
dealers, they need to check prices. I fear my 'mechanical breakdown
coverage' will not do much good here. I inquired with some VW dealers on
how much a head gasket replacement would be. �160 (sh...)
Have a nice weekend........
Flying Dutchman
|
1160.14 | Prices | IOSG::MARSHALL | Waterloo Sunset | Fri Nov 23 1990 15:47 | 5 |
| >> Head gasket replacement would be �160
Nah, �5 for a gasket and Sunday afternoon to fit it...
Scott ;-)
|
1160.15 | How about this!!???!!! | KURMA::LDICKHOFF | | Sun Nov 25 1990 17:00 | 18 |
| Picked the car up on Friday nite, awaiting final quote. Would this
stuff called Leak Seal (from Halfords) be any good? I feel it might be
worth a try. Anyone has experience with this stuff??
This morning I checked the coolant level and found the tank empty. That
however is not the only thing I found:
The hose from radiator to tank was disconnected and another hose hung
down from the radiator!!!! First thing tomorrow I'll be kickin' some
......!
As I'm not confident as all on car mechanics, the Sunday afternoon
solution is a nono. I would do much more damage!!! ('ow 'bout this fer
'onesty???)
Flying Dutchman
|