Conference terri::cars_uk

    
    Does any one get vibrations on there accelerator pedal.I get it when
    i'm going about 80-85mph,then when you get above 85/87mph the
    vibrations go.If this is a common fault,is there anything I can do to
    prevent it?
    
    	Most precrulier.
    
    	Cheers Andy...Typo....
    

What car do you drive?

I noticed it, driving Roy Shelley's Fiesta RS-Turbo.

Mark.

    I read in a magazine article that the Fiesta RS Turbo sufferd from
    vibrations through the pedals and gear stick too.
    
    But Andy I think I know the crux of the promblem... you drive a
    Vauxhall don't you ?
    
    Gary.

    
    
    How did you find out that you got the vibration at 85mph?
    
    No-one in England does over 70mph...........;-)
    
    	MattB

    
    	There was someone in the center lane of the motorway in a mini going
    80mph so I had to overtake him.It wasn't you Matt was it?
    
    	RE.6
    		Yep,Gary I drive a Vauxhall Astra.I.6 SR (Did you really
    need to be told,or is this part of the Vauxhall versus Ford vendeter)
    
    	What causes it with the RS turbo?Do you think it's going to cause a
    big problem eventually?
    
    		Cheers
    			Andy....
    

    Na don't think it'll cause a big problem in the RS. I drove one and
    didn't feel anything (and that was just the steering :-). The vibrating
    pedal problem in a Vauxhall though is likely to be much more serious,
    as the superior build quality of the RS can take it; whereas the
    Vaxuhall is likely to disintegrate without warning.
    
    You started the vendetta yourself :-)
    
    Gary.

    Oh yeah Andy I had the lend of an Astra Sri on Wednesday for 150 miles.
    Nice engine note accelerating from slow, but apart from that it was
    rather dull.
    
    Gary.

    
    
    What colour was the Mini Andy??
    
    	MattB

    
    Your view is typical of the 1.8I engine in the SRI.I found the one I
    drove dull,boring,and with no guts what-so-ever.The Astra I drive is
    the 1.6 not injected and I prefer the performance of the car to the
    SRI.The SRI engine is in fact the old Astra GTE engine(you used to be
    able to get 1.8 and 2.0 litre Astra GTE's)
    
    	Andy.....To-much-of-the-blarny.....
    

    
    	RE.11
    		Matt it wouldn't happen to be blue would it?
    
    
    Andy...
    

    
    No, my car is a very deep red so it wasn't me.
    
    I very rarely do anything over 70 and usually cruise motorways at 60/65
    because my car seems to be happiest there.
    
    BTW since I've had my Mini Crypton tuned a couple of weeks ago it has
    started to use about 4 pounds worth of petrol a week instead of the
    usual 10-13 pounds.   WOwweeee.   
    
    	MattB

    
    Is there anything wrong with adjusting my accelerator cable to full(so
    that I have more travel on my accelerator pedal)out?.Does it cause any
    problems?
    		Should I expect worse fuel consumption even if it idles at
    the same speed?
    
    	Andy....The curious one....
    
    P.s Is it a common feature of Vauxhalls or any make that you can adjust
    the height at which the accelerator pedal rises from within the car.
    I have a screw which relieves the tension on a spring which changes the
    pedals travel.
    
    	Get the idea 8-)
    

�    Is there anything wrong with adjusting my accelerator cable to full(so
    
    There is nothing wrong with adjusting your accelerator so that the
    pedal is at a higher/lower point, but the one thing that you *must*
    pay attention to is the full throttle setting.
    
    On no account should the cable be the limiting part when you press
    to max throttle.  If so, you can expect the cable to break sooner
    or later.  The throttle stop (or the floor) should stop the pedal
    from moving *just* before the throttle linkage is at full-open.
    
    You aren't going to get any performance gain from the cable pulling
    the linkage against all of it's stops, so set things up so that the
    cable is not under stress - only against the return spring of the linkage.
    
    Just think of the stress on the cable, its nipples (ouch !) and the
    throttle linkage (whether carb/s or injection system) when you have
    your foot pressed to the floor in effort to get that last fraction of
    power from your engine...  Then think of the extra effort if your car
    hits a slight bump.  Not likely to be surprised if the cable breaks ?
    
    J.R.

    
    Just a small prob:
    
    	This has happened twice,and on both occasions it occured after I
    started the car up on choke and left it for a while while I de-iced the
    screens.
    
    	 A short while after setting off from home the car hesitates under
    acceleration.The choke has been shut off (manual choke) and when I put
    my toe down it pulls and then goes,this happens in every gear.This only
    happens when the choke has been on for longer than usual due to the
    cold weather.
    		Is this something i'm going to have to live with,or is it
    just a case of new plugs or summu't.
    	Andy...

    To understand what causes this, you have to understand how a choke
    works. It does what its name implies, it chokes the intake of air into
    the engine. This causes the mixture to richen (higher proportion of
    petrol to air) very considerably. Whilst the engine is very cold, this
    isn't a problem as all the petrol is burnt off. However, as the engine
    warms up, it needs a progessively lower proportion of petrol to air. If
    the proportion remains high, the excess petrol is deposited on the
    inside of the cumbustion chamber as soot. Naturally, rather a lot of
    this is on the plugs which hinders the production of a spark. Finally,
    if the engine warms sufficiently, and the proportion of petrol to air
    is high enough, it will no longer burn at all, and the engine dies. 
    
    The answer is simple. Adjust the choke once the engine has been running
    a minute or so, full choke should only be used for starting, then
    adjust as required as it warms. You can usually hear the engine speed
    pick-up as the required ratio of petrol/air changes in relation to that
    supplied, and then slow down as it becomes too rich a mixture. Should
    you inadvertantly leave the choke on for too long, you need to "clear"
    the engine out before you load it  (ie. move away). Do this by revving
    it a few times until it starts to run cleanly. Bear in mind, though,
    that considerable damage can be done by over-revving a cold engine.
    Take it easy...
    
    Laurie.

    
    The strange thing is I closed the choke off well before I got on the
    Mway(the car was running fine)and when I got off (J12 to J11) and 
    headed towards Shire Hall,the problem then started.I would have thought 
    that the Mway trip would clear it out.
    	Or am I wrong.
    
    		Andy
    		

    Ah well, you didn't say that, did you...
    
    Laurie.

    Any idea!
    
    	Andy
    
    

   	Could the mixture be set too rich, such that there's not enough air
   getting in even when the choke is pushed right in?  This may be only
   starting to show now as the weather warms up...

    Either that, or you've got a bit of crud in your jets (or whatever carb
    you've got) and it's too weak without the choke!
    
    Laurie.

    
    I only get this prob when my choke is on for longer than usual due to
    cold weather,the car runs fine when the choke is cut off early.
    
    	Andy
    

I get this problem with my Webers in very cold weather.
(Warms up a little, put choke in and then cuts out when
I'm next stationary).  My tuner told me that it was 
because the Webers have a very primitive choke mechanism.
I'd been worried that the carbs were icing...

Dave