Conference terri::cars_uk

    I've just bought a car with a COBRA alarm. I'm getting problems with
    the indicators staying on (when armed or unarmed) - they should just
    flash when initially armed. 
    
    Any ideas why this should happen ?
    
    Thanks
    
    ---Rhys

    I've just had my car keys and Cobra alarm activator stolen in a
    burglary at my house. Does anyone know whether these alarms can be
    retuned to use a different frequency activator (I'm working on the
    assumption that my thief still has the means to open my car) ?
    
    Alternatively, perhaps someone could supply me with a phone number for
    Cobra so that I can ask them. The alarm was already fitted to a car
    that I bought secondhand, and it came with no documentation.
    
    Thanks,
    
    Steve.

Sorry i can't help, i'm not in the UK, but try popping to any garage... they
should have a help number... alternativly find a cobra dealer.



				Lewis.

Most remotes work on a variable code, not frequency.

I would expect that Cobra could fit a replacement code in the alarm,
and provide you with matching remotes - but how are you going to get
into the car in the first place ;-)

mb

    RE: .6
    
    I got into the car with the help of the AA. The alarm went off (good !)
    so we disconnected it (result: car immobilised). When I phoned the
    garage that supplied the car new, in order to get a key number, I was
    told they didn't have one, but they did have a spare set of keys ! The
    spare alarm actuator was there too. So I now have car keys plus alarm
    actuator, but so does somebody else............... hence the query
    about changing the alarm frequency/coding.
    
    Steve

    why did the garage have spare keys to your car ?

    I thought Cobra's had their own internal power supply in case of being
    disconnected from the main power supply.
    
    Did you disconnect it and let it drain away?
    
    
    
    					Lewis.

    I echo the question why would the garage keep a spare set of keys and
    alarm actuator?.
    
    Sounds a bit fishy to me (like them making plans for a claw-back if the
    lease company fails to pay)
    
    I had a related issue when my previuos car was delivered. It had one
    original key, and one tatty, hastilly cut and not working copy.
    
    I fought long and hard to get two genuine ones but to no avail. They
    eventually stumped up for the cost of me going to the local key cutter
    to get one made that did work. At that time I too thought there was
    some sneaky reason why they might have kept one of the keys.
    
    I'd be inclined to ask for an explanation for this.
    
    Richard

    Re: .8, .11
    
    I knew someone would ask this question. The garage that sold the car
    new also sold it to us secondhand. The original purchaser probably part
    exchanged it for another new car. When we collected the car we were
    only given one set of keys. We queried this at the time but were told
    "there is only one set". 
    
    When, some 2 months later, I rang and asked them for the key number,
    they looked in the file, and found the spare keys.
    
    
    Re: .10
    
    I don't know anything about a separate power supply (or alarms come to
    that - I've never had a car with an alarm before). All I did was unplug
    two multi-terminal block connectors once the AA had opened the car for
    me. After I had obtained spare keys, I switched off the alarm (there is
    a key slot in the top - I assume this switches it off), reconnected the
    terminal blocks and switched it back on. The car could then be 
    started, hence the immobiliser must have been reset, but the alarm
    won't arm anymore. Whether this is because I have forgotten to do
    something, or the spare actuator that I am now using is broken, I don't
    know. I have changed the battery (in the actuator) but this makes no
    difference. For the time being I rip out 4 HT leads every night !
    
    Steve.
                                                                   

    	Yea, a guy called Hew used to do that with his Spitfire every 
    	night... it never did get kicked! ;-)
    

    If the alarm isn't working have you tried turning the key on the black
    box under the bonnet to a different position.  Mine sounds the same,
    the key is on or off.
    
    Dave D

    Re: .14
    
    I have tried the alarm with the key in both positions, it makes no
    difference.
    
    I have just been to an alarm dealer, and was told:
    
    1)  Alarms can't be retuned to a different code/frequency, though new
        actuators can be obtained for the same code/frequency.
    
    2)  It will probably cost as much to find out what is wrong with my
        existing alarm as it would to buy a new one. (I find this hard to
        believe, after all it was working perfectly on Saturday - all I've
        done is disconnect a few wires, then reconnect them)
    
    3)  The model of Alarm that I've got is now obsolete, the replacement
        Cobra model is completely different (ie they'll have to rip out the
        old one to install a new one !)
    
    They offered me a "Foxguard" T34 (I think) which is "as good as the
    Cobra but much cheaper". Any opinions anyone ?
    
    Thanks for help so far,
    
    Steve.

    sounds like the dealer is after new business !

    Re: .15
    
    Well, now I've spoken to Cobra directly, and they say that recoding of
    the 425 and 1425 alarms in their range is possible. My local dealer is
    to remove the alarm and send it off for a complete service, recoding
    and replacement actuator switch for ~�70.  Not cheap, but cheaper than
    an equivalent new alarm. Apparently the Scorpion alarms can be recoded
    too. There may be others - usually the more expensive ones. It seems to
    me that the retunability of an alarm ought to be a factor to take into
    account when buying - or am I just paranoid about someone coming back
    and helping themselves to my car ?
    
    Steve