Conference terri::cars_uk

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Note 470.17                More Orion Comments Please                   17 of 23
FORTY2::WOODLEY "Ford gives you more... squeaks, ba" 11 lines  13-OCT-1989 15:06
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RE:
� If you can do the job yourself (you need a special tool to measure the belt
� tension) then you can do it for about �10, compared to the few hundred it
� will cost you if the belt breaks.

I'm thinking of buying an Escort and replacing the timing belt as a matter of
priority as well as giving it a full tune 'n' service.

The question is "Does anyone have (or know of of someone) that will lend/hire
the aforementioned `special tool'?" and have any tips to impart with regard
to this operation.

I don't think a garage will be too keen to hire one out for obvious reasons.
(Mind you I haven't asked yet).

I've looked in ELF for the author of 470.17 but no_can_find.

Any help appreciated,
                     Mark

I have just purchased a B reg 1.6 GL Ford Escort about 5 weeks ago.  I have
had no reason to complain about it as it got me from A to B etc.

The past two mornings, it has refused to start up...The battery seems ok.

I was wondering, could it have something to do with the automatic choke and it 
being rather cold on the last two mornings ?


Sandra_very_anoyed_Ford_Owner_and_EX-Polo_owner

Assuming that the engine is well adjusted and maintained (plugs, timing
etc etc), then most likely cause is the automatic choke.

There are a few solutions. Get the choke adjusted or convert it to a
manual choke (used to cost around 30-50 quid). If you get it adjusted,
don't expect it to work properly, especially if you leave the car outside,
for very long.

    I'd say the automatic choke is a very likely cause, they were
    notoriously bad (Ford discontinued them eventually). I had nothing but
    trouble with the one on my wife's 1.3 until I put in a manual choke.
    Any good car spares shop can sell you a manual conversion kit for about
    �20.
    
    Of course, there could be any number of other reasons your car won't
    start.
    
    Ian.

    I have an old 1983 Escort 1300 (with CVH engine) which has been stored
    (abandoned) in my garden for 15 months. I got the engine running last 
    weekend but I can't get it into gear (shrieking of cogs). I can select 
    a gear when the engine is not running, with no problem. 
    
    I think that maybe the clutch has siezed while it was laid up. Is this
    a possibility? Can anyone think of anything simpler thing that it might 
    be that would not involve me dismantling the clutch? If the fix is in 
    any way expensive, I'll have to scrap the car (probably a good thing, 
    I hear you say!? ;-)         
    
    Thanks for any advice.
    DaveT

    Yes, could well be the clutch is stuck. Common problem when you leave a
    car for a long while. The trick is getting it unstuck. You have to be a
    bir brutal. This has been discussed in this conference elsewhere, but I
    can't find it...!
    
    Try putting it in gear and then 'starting' it (make sure there's no
    brick wall in front of you!). Applying the brakes at the same time will
    make it safer. Do this with the clutch pedal down, ofcourse. It might
    take a few goes, it might not even work, in which case some more brutal
    methods of getting the clutch plate and pressure plate to separate will
    be needed. Or dissassembly.
    
    It might ofcourse be something else, but check this possibility out
    first as it is quite common.
    
    Cheers,
    Dan

    
    It should be easier to start it in gear with wheels blocked up or even
    removed, then when it's running pretty well try stamping on the brakes
    whilst keeping the other foot on the throttle....
    
    Graham

    Yes, that's a good one (but do it with the wheels on, you'll have no,
    ermm... wassit called.... centrifugal momentum type stuff... with them
    off).
    
    Cheers,
    Dan

    
    good point Dan..
    
    Another trick to try would be belting the clutch release lever (that
    pokes out of the bellhousing) using a piece of wood and a big hammer -
    remembering off course to disconnect the cable first, you should be
    able to make moree of an impact on the release bearing and mechanism
    this way than via the clutch pedal/cable assembly itself....
    
    graham
    
    BTW, if you're going to block it up use big peices of wood, not axle
    stands or bricks - you don't want it flying/falling off - a sticky
    clutch would be the least of your worries !
    

    ....or, alternatively, put it on its roof.
    
    Dan$helpful_as_ever

    
    >> ....or, alternatively, put it on its roof.
    
       Dan, you just haven't thought this through have you ? as it's a
    carburettored (sp?) model, it won't run upside down - the float
    chambers won't fill.
    
    G.

    Bugger, didn't think of that.
    
    ;-)
    
    Well, it's simple then. Keep the car upright, but turn the world upside
    down instead.
    
    Cheers,
    Dan

    Tow it to a garage with a rolling road and use that.
    
    Helpfully
    Clive

    Alternative method if others don't work is to bump start the car on long
    stretch of road (once moving you should be able to change gear OK).
    Once moving at a reasonable speed hold clutch pedal down (keep car in
    gear) and keep going until clutch frees up.
    
    This worked on my Mini with competition clutch.
    
    Richard 

    To sum it up, amongst the dross...
    
    Warm the engine and switch off. Making sure that there's nothing in
    front of the car, put it into gear and depress the clutch. Attempt to
    start the engine. This may or may not work, so try several times. The
    engine must be warm, and must be happy about starting. With luck, the
    car will start, in gear, and the clutch will "snap" free.
    
    If that fails, as .24 says, tow the car at about 20 mph, and banging
    the clutch up and down, try to get it into gear. If that fails, you're
    Donald Ducked.
    
    Laurie.

    Thanks to all for the advice - helpful and amusing.
    'more brutal methods' - I did bounce it round the garden on the starter
    motor, but this wasn't enough!
    'dissassembly' - Haynes says "before you remove the clutch, dismantle
    the transmission (see Chapter 6)".   Chapter 6 looks difficult.
    'belt the clutch release lever' - will try this weekend.
    'put it on its roof/use rolling road' - might try next week.
    'bump start the car on long stretch of road' - this sounds promising.
    My road is quite long, with Mike_the_mechanic's yard at the end. No need
    to bump start it, it starts alright. I'll get the family to push, then
    slip it in gear with the engine running. No MOT or tax, but I can always 
    say I was heading for the MOT garage.
    'the engine must be warm' - this is important, it it never really was
    last weekend.
    'Put it into gear and depress the clutch. Attempt to start the engine.'
    Right, thanks,
    davet
         

I've had this happen a few times on Rabbits (Golf Mk1) - I started the car in
first gear (deserted neighborhood streets) kept the cluth pedal down with my
left foot and then put my right foot on both the brake and gas.  By getting the
engine and wheels fighting each other, the clutch is right in the middle and
should break free at some point.

Of course, when it does, the car tends to stop real quick and the revs go up
very quickly so be ready to lift your right foot off the pedals!

Dave