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Conference 7.286::home_work

Title:Home_work
Notice:Check Directory (6.3) before writing a new note
Moderator:CSLALL::NASEAM::READIO
Created:Tue Nov 05 1991
Last Modified:Thu Jun 05 1997
Last Successful Update:Fri Jun 06 1997
Number of topics:2100
Total number of notes:78741

922.0. "Plans, Bench Grinder from Old Washer Motor" by SNAX::HURWITZ (YA-HOO baby #2 is on the way!) Fri Nov 16 1990 21:13

    I need some suggestions on how to insulate an uninsulated washer motor
    to use as a bench grinder.  It came off of my folks washer when the guy
    replaced it by mistake (free- under warr.) of another problem and never 
    put the old one back in.  It's 1/3 hp and I managed to figure out which 
    terminals to connect feed wires to for the power.  
    
    The only problem I have is that it is uninsulated.  I was planning on 
    using a pully to pully with a car fan belt so I could hook up both a 
    grinder and a buffing wheel.  So the motor will be out of direct touch
    when mounted to the rear of the workbench.  But I do need to insulate
    it to avoid gettin' zapped.
    
    I could easily make a "frame" to mount it in out of wood, but I don't
    want a hot motor being next to wood.  Any other ideas of a strong,
    easily shapable/workable material?  I though plexiglass would look good
    but wouldn't be strong enough.  Sheetmetal would be ideal but I dont
    know how I would work with it.
    
    The whole point here is that I have a motor for free and thus want to
    spend next to nothing on the reat of what it will take to make it a
    good bench top grinder.  If it ends up costing 30$ to make it work, it
    probably would be better to just buy one.  I estimate it'll cost around
    10$ to begin with just for the pulley, belt, and double-shaft end pully
    where the wheels will mount to.
    
    Any ideas?
    
    Steve............................................................
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922.1CSC32::GORTMAKERwhatsa Gort?Fri Nov 16 1990 23:154
Not sure the motor case would be hot but I doubt it. I think and open belt
would be far more dangerous in the long run.

-j
922.2RAMBLR::MORONEYShhh... Mad Scientist at work...Fri Nov 16 1990 23:3012
If the motor's case is actually live, it's defective, either fix the motor
or don't use it.

If you're just worried that an internal short could make the case hot someday,
use a grounded feed, and connect the ground lead to the motor's case.  If the
motor develops an internal short, it will pop the breaker/blow a fuse.

Be sure you wire the ground correctly!

You could use a GFI circuit if you really wanted to.

-Mike
922.3Better quality/stability if you're willing to spend a little more.TALLIS::KOCHDTN226-6274 ... If you don't look good, DEC doesn't look good.Mon Nov 19 1990 14:2715
>... I ... want to spend next to nothing on the [rest] of what it will take
>to make it a good bench top grinder.  If it ends up costing 30$ to make it
>work, it probably would be better to just buy one.  I estimate it'll cost
>around 10$ to begin with just for the pulley, belt, and double-shaft end
>pully where the wheels will mount to.

     I think using a pully system to increase the RPMs will also result in 
a rig that will tend to shimmy or vibrate.  Bench grinders are pretty 
carefully balanced.

     You can buy a nice bench grinder for $75 and one with a plastic 
housing and lower horsepower for under $50.  You can take off the wheel
enclosure and put on  buffing wheels if you want.
     

922.4Woodcraft Sell the HeadsDELNI::EDWARDSMon Nov 19 1990 16:395
    I'm pretty sure Woodcraft sell pully heads specifically for this
    purpose. You just get your own motor and connect it via a belt. The
    head is two sided so you can attach two wheels or buffing pads.
    
    Rod
922.5how do you mold/form plexiglass? anyhowSNAX::HURWITZYA-HOO baby #2 is on the way!Mon Nov 19 1990 20:4822
    re .3   The idea was to make it cheap or not have one.  Money's tight
    these days and I could better use that 50 - 75 on other more important
    things.
    
    The case of the motor is not hot electrically and/or does not get hot
    by running now.  The 2 things I fear are that this motor was designed
    to be open, hence ventilation was free to it for cooling and it just
    wasn't designed to be enclosed and the second thing I fear is the
    terminals that the power is connected to are not insulated...
    
    In other words there is actually only one side to this motor that needs
    to be covered, (maybe I could use plexiglass if I knew how to form
    it/bend it into corners - heating it?), to hide the live terminals so
    no one gets zapped.
    
    The pulleys are available at SPAGS. My dad has had this type of belt
    and pulley grinder/buffer since I can remember and it's as smooth as
    any grinder I've ever seen.  I can always build a belt guard from wood,
    but neither my dad nor myself have ever gotten caught in his grinder
    belt.
    
    Steve............................................................
922.6plexi + oven = shapesPCOJCT::MILBERGI was a DCC - 3 jobs ago!Mon Nov 19 1990 21:2615
    Molding plexiglass is easy - 
    
    	make a from or use the item you want to cover
    
    	heat plexiglass sheet in oven till soft
    
    	place over form
    
    	let it cool
    
    At least that's how we made goodies when I went to summer camps many
    years ago!
    
    	-Barry-
    
922.7CSC32::GORTMAKERwhatsa Gort?Tue Nov 20 1990 00:568
re heating plexiglass. Be sure to allow lots of ventilation and under no
circumstance allow the temp to go over 190 degrees as toxic fumes are given off.

I formed it lots of times 5 minutes on a cookie sheet at ~180 and it's as 
flexible as a sheet of rubber. You should bend further than what you want
in the finished as it tends to relax as it cools. Wear gloves!

-j
922.8what a bargainSNAX::HURWITZYA-HOO baby #2 is on the way!Tue Nov 20 1990 19:124
    I had no idea it was that easy.   That'll do the trick nicely!
    
    Thanks,                                                       
    Steve.............................