Conference 7.286::home_work

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Note 3.3                    Architects & Contractors?                     3 of 3
STAR::FARNHAM "Stu Farnham"                           7 lines  19-FEB-1986 08:50
                       -< Classi Properties, Groton,MA >-
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    Talk to John Kilgore of Classic Properties in Groton. He's the
    architectfor our house, and has done a lot of work in Carlisle.
    
    The general contractor we're using is Jim Connolly, JEC Contracting,
    of MAson NH. Jim has worked with John a number of times.
    

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Note 472.1                    Bathroon design help?                       1 of 1
SQM::SKABO                                           20 lines  14-OCT-1986 13:52
                         -< you can try my architect >-
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    My architect lives in New Hampshire, he did a great job on the
    design of my new music room and lofts on a contemporary split entry
    house that I recommend him highly. He has good ideas on how to tie in the 
    present structure with the addition so as it does not look tacky.
    He will take your ideas and add with his practical ideas. He is
    a structural engineer and very concerned with support, etc.
    He will do a feasibility study first, then make any necessary changes
    that you may have and then draw up the full prints.
    I don't know if he will come down to Mass. but you can give him a call.

    
    			Sal Moccia
    			Hampstead Consultants
			Residential Design Services
			P.O. Box 958
    			East Hampstead, N.H. 03826
    			603.329.5540    

    
    

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Note 750.4                    Need architect in NH                        4 of 7
GLIVET::BROOKS "I'll see you one day in Fiddlers Gr" 27 lines   6-FEB-1987 17:32
                  -< Another vote for Hampstead Consultants >-
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    Funny you should mention Hampstead Consultants, I just had them
    do a design for me. It was a real challenge for them, because I
    live in the recreational zone B in Hampstead on an undersized lot
    I was forced into some *STRICT* guidlines. I applied for my variance
    on Jan. 26 and much to my surprise I was scheduled on the Board of
    Adjustment agenda for 2/5/87. Well it will suffice to say that my
    first thoughts were of doom whereas I had nothing on paper regarding
    a 24 x 22 , 2 car garage and bedroom loft, which I was interested
    in erecting. So I contacted Hampstead Consultants and presented
    my dilema. Well in a weeks time they were able to deliver to me a set
    of plans, which they graciously covered in detail, apparently
    aware of my novice underdstanding of blueprints and the symbols
    present. The design was superb and much better than I had anticipated.
    Not only did it supply exactly what I wanted but it also included
    a few goodies I hadn't even thought of.
    
    I'll make a long story short by saying that I got my
    addition passed by the board of adjustment, thanks to the professional
    job done by Hampstead Consultants. I know I never would have received 
    approval without their professionally prepared blueprints, which meet with
    all of the restrictions imposed on my zone.
    
    Feel free to mention my name as a reference if you decide to contact
    them.
    
    Dick Brooks
    DTN 264-4506 MK01-2/c8

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Note 729.1                     Interior designers                         1 of 4
FURILO::KENT "Peter"                                  6 lines  23-JAN-1987 11:06
                                -< Brenda Dhar >-
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    Brenda Dhar (369-7951) did a garage design for us.  Garages are
    not really her specialty, but I did not want to pay an architect
    for something relatively simple.  Her specialty is interior design
    and she showed us some of the designs that she had done.  I liked
    her work and she can give you references for other interior work
    that she has done.

    I would highly recommend an architect out of Littleton, John Kilgore
    and his associate Bill Lawson.  They have been designing a house
    for us and I feel they have been terrific!  Their phone number is
    (508) 486-9096.

    We used Kilgore and Lawson (actually, New Age Homes, which is the
    name of their business) to design our addition, and so far, we're
    quite satisfied.  (Construction hasn't started yet.)
    
    They did a very good job of listening to us and giving us what we
    wanted.  When we asked them to trim costs, they gave us no hassles.
    They contributed a number of excellent ideas, including a proposal
    to lower the second floor by a foot, which gives us much more usable
    space upstairs (at the cost of having only an eight foot garage
    ceiling, which we feel is worth it).
    
    My only complaints are that they extrapolated our desire to hold
    down architectural costs into a desire to hold down all of the
    construction costs, which means that some items that we had touched
    on briefly during the early discussion weren't in the final plans.
    No big deal; they would have added them in if we really thought
    it necessary.  
    
    Also, architects in general are too darn expensive, at least for
    additions.  The New Age proposal was in line with everyone else's,
    but because they gave us an itemization with their estimate (and
    no one else did), we were able to find the items that could be cut,
    helping us cut costs.  For example, we didn't bother with the exterior
    elevations.
    
    Be forwarned:  John talks a mile a minute.  Listen carefully, and
    don't be afraid to ask him to repeat himself.
    
       Gary

    I can also recommend New Age Homes, but not without one or two small
    caveats. NAH also will do the contracting (in addition to the
    architecture), and we had a lot of trouble getting them to distinguish
    between the architecture and construction costs and getting a
    functional cost breakdown. We had them architect and build a
    combination garage/storage/workshop building - yeah, call us yuppies -
    which required some tricky locating - we ended up sinking it into a
    hill so the roof is only 5-8' above the hill crest. Workmanship was
    top-drawer (your house should be framed as well), but we had the usual
    (never quite resolved) problems at the end with landscaping and odds
    and loose ends. I spent a fair amount of time last summer moving part
    of a hill one wheelbarrow at a time. (Got real good with a pick.) The
    guy who handled the contracting part is no longer with them. 

    We're very satisfied with both the architecture and workmanship, though
    would recommend separating architecture and contracting bids.

    re .66,.67
    
    I was looking for a structural engineer to take a look at the
    foundation of an approx. 100 year old shed that I am thinking of
    turning into living space.  My local building inspector gave me the
    name of Gino Cosimini in Natick, 508-653-0757. The inspector said
    Cosimini was very good, taught at a local school, but might be TOO
    detailed....  Anyway, I gave him a call, and we had a lengthy chat.
    While he said he couldn't certify my foundation, he made a number
    of helpful suggestions (he apparently has an old house too), and
    in the end suggested that I really didn't need him to come out(!), but
    if I wanted him to he would be glad to take a look at it.  I believe he
    said his rates were $60.00/hr, including driving time to/from his
    office.
    
    I have not asked him to come out, but was very impressed by his
    comments on the phone and willingness to talk to me at length over the
    phone.

    I would like to recommend Pat Slattery od Lunenburg. He designed our
    addition (1000 ft +, passive solar design w/ sunken living room, loft
    exposed beams, bathroom [1/2], bedroom). We worked w/ him for 6 mos. 
    on the design (lots of concept drawings). His price quote 11 hrs. @ 
    $33.00 per. hr. /final price 10.5 hrs + $15.00 printing fee approx
    325.00. He is real receptive to inputs, and "went the extra mile" to
    provide service to "one time only" customer. He said he disigned add-
    itions for many years before going to larger (commercial property)
    building design, but still likes to "crank out a few" additions.

    	In reply to .15, The firm you mention, has been doing HJ Stabile
    & sons work for at least ten years. I have wired a few of the buildings
    that they designed for Stabile. 
    
    	If you are familiar with downtown Nashua, The old Church building
    with the Glass Elevator on the front of it, is one of their designs.
    And if my memory is correct, they were also involved with the old
    mill building on Water St. that Pennichuck water works currently
    resides in. 
    
    	They were pretty good to work with, just the ususal problems
    encountered with Architects, More concerned about how things look
    then with how the thing actually went together. Everything was
    structurally sound, just mechanically difficult to deal with.
    
    	I would consider them for my own use if I were in the market
    for this type of service.
    
    P L

Can't let this note go by without recommending our architect, Gregg Spalding of
Cambridge (617-576-1592).  He worked WITH us at every stage of the design of our
remodelling and paid respectful attention to our wishes (in other words, he did
not try to run away with the design).  We acted as our own contractors for the
actual work, and Gregg was there and on site at every step of the way keeping an
eye on the work and helping us.  When the structural work was done he helped
with color schemes, lighting, and many other aspects of turning the remodelled
house into a comfortable (and dare I say "stylish"?) HOME.  I can't say enough
good things about him.

Gregg is a licensed AIA architect and has done other, commercial, work in the
Boston area, but also does new homes, remodelling, additions, etc.  Call me if
you have any questions.  This guy is tops.

---Pete

    For true 'professionals' at reasonable cost for Civil Engineering,
    Surveying and Septic design try David E. Ross out of Ayer.  Their 
    number is 772-6232.  
    
    
    Kumar

    I'm looking for an architect who really knows old buildings. This is
    for my sister, who owns a really eccentric old house in Concord Mass.
    She wants to put on a small addition, but also needs an overall master
    plan for the myriad of little things that need to be done.
    
    Please send any recommendations to MSBCS::A_HARRIS.
    
    Thanks,
    Andrea

    I am in need of an architect that really knows how to handle building
    in environmentally sensitive areas (wetlands). The project will require
    dealing with many restrictions and regulations. I am looking to build a
    house that will have a contemporary feel but classic lines.

    I would like to put in an enthusiastic recommendation for Lynne Swanson
    in Littleton, Ma.  Though she keeps reminding me that technically she is 
    a "Designer" not an "Architect", she has done an excellent job designing 
    our house.

    Lynne is the third architect/designer we have been to while designing
    the home or our dreams.  She is professional, insightful, creative,
    conscientious, inexpensive, and pleasant to work with.  Without going 
    into details on our previous architects - let me say that Lynne has 
    been the one who was finally able to help us complete the design for
    our house.

    What I value most about Lynne is that in addition to her obvious 
    competence as an architectural designer, she is a home maker with 
    several years experience living and working in a house that she 
    designed.  As such, she brings with her a practical perspective that 
    many architects lack.

    Lynne will also provide interior decorating services for houses and 
    additions she works on.

    She can be contacted at:

		Lynne Swanson
		Home Maker Design Services
		(508) 486-9387


    Feel free to contact me if you want more details.

    - Carol Fleury
      MARX::FLEURY
      DTN: 276-8427

    Looking for an engineer, I guess, who can give me some advice regarding
    a collapsing retaining wall.  This wall is on the property line, built
    by a neighbor, and the neighbor proceeded to build a huge addition
    approximately 8 feet from the edge of the wall.  His addition will be
    in my driveway soon and I really don't want it there!  THe wall has
    developed huge cracks, and the mortar between the cement blocks is
    crumbling.  What kind of engineer do I need? Do you know of someone who
    could look at this situation and give me some advice?  Or do I need to
    contact the city's engineer?  Please reply via mail.
    MCIS5::CORMIER
    (Sarah)

I'd suggest starting with the building inspector.  That's the town official
whose job it was to make sure your neighbor did the job right.  I assume
you've mentioned the problem to your neighbor?

	Larry

> This wall is on the property line, built by a neighbor, and the
> neighbor proceeded to build a huge addition approximately 8 feet from
> the edge of the wall.  His addition will be in my driveway soon... 

> What kind of engineer do I need?

NONE! It's your neighbor's problem. I realize that it's your driveway
that you're concerned about but the ONLY money that you should have to
spend would be for a Laywer IF your neighbor doesn't take care of HIS
problem. 

Do alert the neighbor, city's engineer and/or the building inspector
about the it. Let your neighbor know that you are aware and CONCERNED
about HIS problem.

Charly

I guess I would also assume that a proper building permit was obtained to build
the addition. This should have included a check to ensure that the proper
set backs were followed (the distance a building is from the property line).

Eight feet from the property line seems awful close. Most of the towns 
I am aware of would not allow you to build this close to the property line.

							Mark

    Minimum setback in "RB" areas in Nashua is 7 feet on the sides.
    "RA" is 10 feet, I believe.

    
    
    help!  i need recommendations for a 'registered' architect who does
    commercial work.  i'm looking in the needham, ma and hudson, ma area.
    
    thanks for any help you can give!
    cathie
    (232-2480)

    -.1
    
    I'd like to recommend my neighbor, Steve Mielke.  He is a registered 
    architect; works in Boston, but lives in Boxborough.  All I know of 
    is his residential work; which is very nice(he designed his house).  He 
    has also given me some very helpful suggestions to some renovations that 
    I've been doing on my house.  I mentioned the commercial work to
    him(because of the prev note), and he said that he has done commercial 
    work w/ the group he works w/.
    
    If you have any architectural 'needs', I'd highly recommend giving him
    a call.
                               
    His phone # is 266-1130.
    
    regards,
    
    	John   

    Does anyone have any recent references for architects in the Nashua
    area. We have recently built a house and have many problems with it
    and have been advised to hire an architect to walk through to point out
    potential problems that we have not been seeing. I live in Milford,
    NH.
        
    Any help is appreciated. Thanks. I have also posted this in the
    NEW_HAMPSHIRE notesfile.

    Ronald Ravenscroft on Pettinggill Hill Road in Lyndeboro, NH. 654-2700  
    I had planned to use Ron on a project that never materialized, so I
    can't comment on his work.  He is a nice guy, however. :-)

    -Bob

We are planning to have a home designed and would like to get some
ball-park figures for an architect (custom design).

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

Brian

    Do you mean how much an architect charges?  

    Yes; was interested in getting some ideas of average cost.  But, after
    a bit of research, I've found that there is not really an "average"
    house, so the best advise I've had is to find an arch that had a price
    in your range and you comfortable working with.
    
    -Brian

    re -1: ok.
    
    There's an architect located in Boston that I've been working with
    on my condo renovation. He's extremely helpful in getting me focused
    (his other clients have said the same thing), and providing some
    great plans and ideas that will fit my budget. He doesn't try
    to force something on you that you can't afford. I've been impressed with
    his ability to pull a very poorly planned late 70's condo conversion
    into something cohesive and well thought out which addressed all
    my needs for a home. 
    
    He works in the 'greater' boston area, I know of houses in Quincy and 
    Framingham that he's done so he's not just stricly devoted to Boston.
    
    His info:
    
    Robert Krebs, Architect
    190 Alleghany Street #C
    Boston, MA 02120
    
    617-734-1448

If your looking for an architect, I'd like to recommend:

	John P. Kilgore			508-433-8270
	Architecture, Inc.
	46 Blood Street
	Pepperell, MA  01463

John was also listed several times in this file under different phone numbers
and company names.  You might want to look up those notes as well.

I have an unfinished cape, where the upstairs is an empty shell.  I hired
John to add a very large dormer with lots of window space so that we
can have a nice view of the lake from our future master bedroom.  John
drew up some excellent plans in color and helped us prepare the documentation
for our permit.  John also helped us find a builder who would let us do
some of the work to hold the cost down.

John was willing to work within our budget and provide only the services
that we could not produce ourselves.  This has helped us save hundreds of
dollars.  We have been very satisfied with John's services.

Thanks,
  Bill

Can anyone recommend an architect or designer for the Carlisle, Massachusetts
area?  I am looking to buy one of two houses, both of which need major
facelifts.  One needs a second floor, the other needs most of the floor plan
redone.  Both are rather plain and need sprucing up and modernization
(exterior porches, master suite, new kitchen, that sort of thing).  The
finished result would be  about 2500 sq. ft.

I'd like to find a designer or architect who will go to the houses, make
recommendations and early ballpark cost estimates, and give real opinions to
help in the decision-making, then to continue in some capacity during the
construction.

I've extracted the recommendations earlier in this note and I'll check them
out, but are there any others?  Specifically, I've noticed the name "Jeff
Freeman" in the town paper (he's apparantly working for the town). Has anyone
worked with him?

Mail or reply, whichever suits...

Thanks!

Lisa

                
 
    I'd also like to recommend John Kilgore of Architecture, Inc.
    
    John has been working with us to design an alteration to our
    home.  We have an older home, and wanted some help in adding
    space, while retaining the style of the house.  John was able
    to work with us to achieve this goal. 
    
    We have a limited budget, so John worked with us to lay out the 
    cost of the architectural work up front, allocating resources in the 
    way that made the most sense for us.  Of course, we went over
    the architecture budget by about 20%, but we are quite satisfied 
    with the design.  John's address:   
    
    	John Kilgore
    	46 Blood Street
    	Peperell, MA 01463
    	(508) 433-8270
    
    
    Regards,
    
    Leslie
    

We have just started working with John as well (based on recommendations
in this file) to add an addition onto our 18 year old split.
He is creative, patient, gives you ample time to think over your
ideas and is senstive to your budget.  So far, we are extremely
pleased with his work.

Mary-Michael Scanlon

    We had a great experience with
    
      Carl Oldenburg
      617-863-9536
    
    He was a pleasure to work with, his fee was reasonable (and what he
    said it would be).  If you want to see some of his work, I've got it
    at home :-)
    
    Mark

I'm looking for some sound advice from a structural engineer on my
cracked foundation.  I have a walk out basement with concrete block
on (probably) ledge.  I have a see through crack in the concrete block
that runs floor to ceiling.  I need advice on whether I can ignore it
or what it would take to fix it.  I've had the house and the crack for
10 years but now I'm motivated to look into it.

The house is in Northboro Ma.  Recommendations for structural engineers
are welcome and any contractors you know who have successfully dealt with
similar problems.

Thanks,

Candy

    
    Couldn't find another note with this topic so...
    
    We are in the process of planning some major renovations
    on our house. One of the options we are looking into
    is using a full service design/build company. You pay these
    companies for all phases of the project from the design phase
    through the completion of the project. We have talked with
    a person from New England Remodelers(?) on Rt 9 in Westboro, Ma.
    about the service they offer but haven't gone any futher than
    that. There is also a place on Rt 9 in Southborough, Ma., Picardi
    Contruction.
    
    I would like to find out if any others have gone this route
    and what they have to say. Also any comments about specific
    companies would be welcome. Of course, any other comments would
    be appreciated.  Thanks.                       
    
    Mike

    You should definitely talk to Mike Dargin in Littleton 486-4603.

    I'm thinking of adding a screened porch to my house.  Since the front
    of my house faces a brook, while the side faces the street (and usually
    serves as the main entrance), we thought it would make more sense to
    put a porch off the real front of the house facing the brook.  However, 
    we're afraid it may drastically alter the entire charm of the house,
    especially if we use the main entrance as the lead way to the screened
    porch.  Someone recommended we hire an architect so that the porch 
    complements rather than detracts from the style of the house.  
    
    Can anyone recommend an architect in the Acton, MA area and/or a
    qualified contractor who could do the construction and/or the designing
    as well?
    
    How much might I spend for an architect, how is this usually done, and
    does this plan appear to be overkill?
    
    Thanks,
    Dan

I recommend Mike Dargin.  He's a general contractor, and helped design our porch
to fit in with the house, too.  He's a great guy, and did an excellent job, and
you'll find he's reasonable, too.  

Personally, for something as simple as a porch, I wouldn't waste my time with an
architect, unless the house was some exotic design that called for something
equally exotic.  For example, if I owned the spiral tower house on Trapelo Rd in
Lincoln, I'd consider getting an architect.   

I'd appreciate any recommendations for architects or designers
in the greater Concord, NH area (Concord, Warner, Henniker, Sunapee).
We're planning on putting a 2 or 3 room addition onto our home in 
Bradford, NH, so someone that specializes in residential additions
would be ideal.

Thanks,
 Dave

 

    See my note (2012.159) in this conference.

     We hired an engineer to parcel out 2 adjacent lots from our property
     (we live in Berlin, MA, which is a member of the Nashoba Assoc. Board
     of Health.) They drew up a contract containing a fixed amount for
     surveying and septic design (there was a clause saying the surveying
     would be more if there was heavy foliage or significant snowfall), and
     an hourly rate for soil testing.  We didn't want to subdivide if the
     soil tests were negative, so we went ahead with the testing without
     signing anything.  Our deep hole tests were done in April of 94, and
     the perc tests in July of 94.

     We send them a $500 retainer in Dec '94 to begin the survey and septic
     design.  They indicated that the field work would take approx 2-3
     weeks, plus another 2-3 weeks to draw up the plans.

     We made several calls to them throughout the winter and spring to
     check on their progress.  The answers we received were either "the
     surveyers still have some work to do" or "we're swamped due to the new
     Title 5 regulations."  Also, the original engineer who had overseen
     the soil testing left the company, and another took over our septic
     design.

     Finally, on June 6, the septic plans were delivered to the board of
     health for their approval.  Early in July, the lot plans were
     presented to and approved by the town planning board.  We thought we
     could see a light at the end of tunnel.

     After their 45-day review, the BOH returned a form indicating that the
     septic plans didn't pass for several reasons.  Most were minor, but on
     both lots, they indicated that only one and deep hole test had been
     done per system, and that the town required two!  I spoke with the
     engineer at the BOH, and he said that the 2 test per system regulation
     had been in place since the late 1980's.  He also indicated that the
     town was very strict on new constructions and would almost certainly
     refuse to issue a variance.  Finally, he said that the next available
     test dates were in mid October!  I then spoke with the designing
     engineer, who said that he look into repositioning the systems to fall
     over two tests, or look into getting a variance.

     I haven't spoken with the engineer in 3 or 4 weeks now.  I did speak
     with the BOH, and they indicated that no one from the engineering firm
     had contacted him with questions or comments regarding our plans, nor
     to schedule further soil testing.

     At this point, I feel the engineers are acting unprofessionally on the
     septic design.  I don't feel it should have taken 5+ months to survey
     2 simple lots and come up with the first septic plan, nor should they
     have to go back and perform additional soil tests.  However, I have
     absolutely no experience in this area, and need a little advice.  My
     questions now are:

     1. Is this situation unusual when subdividing land?

     2. Shouldn't the engineering firm have known about the town's test
        requirements before any testing was done?

     3. Who regulates engineers in the state of MA?  I know they have to be
        licensed, and want to know where I could file a complaint.

     4. No contract was signed to this point.  We've paid a retainer, and
        bills for the surveying and the soil testing.  We received an
        interim bill for the septic design which I have no intentions of
        paying until a septic plan is approved.  Could we pull out now (or
        threaten to) and hire someone else to do the septic design?

     Any additional comments or information would be greatly appreciated!


     Bill

    I only have sympathy.  My experience was very similar to yours.
    They kept feeding me a carrot of hope that it would all end soon.
    It ended up taking almost a full year before final approval. 
    I thought I just got what I paid for as I went for the cheapest bid...
    -Larry

    
    John Kilgore, Architecture Inc, just did a two phase addition design for us
    the second half of which is under construction.
    
    We picked him based on this notesfile, and have been delighted with the
    results. (In line with earlier recommendations)
    
    Mick

    
    I'm looking for a NH licensed structural engineer -- I'll need a
    stamped set of engineering drawings/specs for correcting the 
    electrician's (G. Smith) drilling holes in the 5 1/4" x 14"
    structural beams in my new house in 8 places.  In at least one case
    the holes are drilled in such a fashion as to create a 7" notch in the
    bottom on the beam.  No holes are recommended (and no holes were really 
    required!), but if you must drill a hole, a 1/2" level hole is allowed 
    in the center of the beam.  The holes in question are 1 1/4" and drilled 
    at 30 to 45 degree angles from near the bottom of the beam and come out 
    near the center of the beam on the other side.  These beams carry about 
    1800 sq. ft of roof+snow loading (cathedral ceiling, no cross members), 
    1/2 the 2nd floor ceiling and 1/2 the 2nd floor flooring loads.  I spent 
    the weekend adding posts to a couple of places where I could transfer the 
    load to other beams under the 1st floor flooring and I hope this will keep
    the building upright until we can figure out what to do.  Sistering
    steel isn't necessarily an option since floor joists are directly
    connected to these beams 16" o.c. -- there is no place to put the steel
    without removing/cutting back the joists which have flooring and 2nd
    floor partitions in place, etc.
    
    To say I'm just a teensy bit tweaked at George is a vast
    understatement.  Especially since none of these holes were needed (in
    all cases except one, the end of the beam is less then 8' from the hole
    and you can go around the beam with wiring.

>>    all cases except one, the end of the beam is less then 8' from the hole
>>    and you can go around the beam with wiring.

Around the end of a beam?  Depending on where this is, it may not have been
an option per code (without some sort of protection around the wires.  

A 1 1/4" hole is not an uncommon bit size for an electrian to have in their
right angle drill.  A 1/2" hole is good for 1 RX cable (maybe!) and if you are 
pulling it any distance - its not much good for that.

I'm not defending George, just letting you know that what he did is most 
likly "standard practice" - except for creating a 7" notch ! Yikes !  Did the
plans state anything special about these beams?

bjm

    
>>Around the end of a beam?  Depending on where this is, it may not have been
>>an option per code (without some sort of protection around the wires.  
    
    The beam is end supported over 6x10 posts, beyond these the material
    reverts to std. 2x floor joists for another >10'  (well actually 14" 
    series 55 TJI wood i-beams but treated the same as 2x material).  Going 
    the extra couple of feet and popping holes thru the joists which are 
    continuously supported by the wall/posts wouldn't be an issue -- code 
    or otherwise.  The holes drilled are typically along/near the bottom 
    in the middle of the free span drilled upwards at a steep angle....
    
    Also, one of the runs is from a switch to a light about 5' away.  The
    run could have gone between the 2x4 inner walls and strapping/outer
    walls, up thru the 2x4 top plate and to the light, but instead the
    electrician drilled three holes in the beams, one to get on the other
    side of the beam and two get get back to the same side of the beam (the
    first was drilled in the wrong place so he moved over 12" and drilled
    another).  The existing run which pops over and back thru the load
    carrying beams is longer than the run behind the 2x4s.

>> I'm not defending George, just letting you know that what he did is most 
>> likly "standard practice" - except for creating a 7" notch ! Yikes !  Did the
>> plans state anything special about these beams?
    
    Yes, they are carrying 50,000-150,000 lbs of loading (1000 sq feet of
    flooring load at 50#/sq, plus ceiling and 10#/sq attic load plus
    another 50#/sq foot roofing/snow load plus the gable of the house,
    plus...  Hence the reason these beams are 5 1/4 x 14 LVL.  
    
    I'm in the process of contacting/faxing the manufacturer (Trus-Joist
    MacMillan) with the information -- they're the ones who specify no
    holes in the beams in order to meet design specs.  
    
    It may be "standard practice" to effectively reduce a highly loaded 
    structural member's carrying capacity by 1/2, but then every building
    inspector should have fits....  More trivial but just as telling is 
    that the electrician busted out the required fire blocking in several 
    places because it was in his way.
    
    The HVAC and Plumbing contractors have come to me with routing
    questions as requested... the electrician "knows better" and just does
    what he's use to I guess.  Gawd, I *love* building homes.

    RE: .-1
    
    Having a hole in a beam is not the problem.   Having the hole at the
    base of the beam is problem.  I would suspect that had hte hole been
    drilled in the center of the beam on a horizontal plane, there would
    be no problem at all.  (Even with the 1-1/2" dia. hole.)
    
    IMHO:  The electrician is liable for any costs for structural repair. 
    I would suggest that you check with a lawyer about this.  The problems
    here could cause further damage/problems later (years!!).
    
    Dan
    

    
    So far I've found out you don't have to be licensed do do structural
    engineering work... or at least that's what the contractor's architect/
    design engineer has said.  He thinks there shouldn't be a problem...
    that doesn't reassure me.  The electrician has agreed to pay the costs
    to fix it and now remembers both myself and the contractor mentioning
    not to drill thru any of the beams without asking first.  We've sent 
    drawings of the beams, posts, load points and holes to both the
    manufacturer of the LVL and the original structural engineer for the
    house.  I want something signed/stamped/in writing from someone I 
    trust that there isn't a problem.
    
    Even if there isn't a problem, we're removing the wires and re-routing
    them.  At the least I will be adding steel nail plates and wide/heavy steel 
    strapping to the beams.  The problem as I see it is to prevent the wood
    fibers from tearing under tension along the bottom of the beam and the
    steel should do this.

.56 which may have been "bad mouthing" a eletrical contractor has disapeared
as had .58 (not sure why).

bjm

    
    Yes, by author... not "bad mouthing", just the facts.  [Physical holes 
    exist in beams, the electrician did it, we (I and contractor) requested
    he not do this, std manufacturing literature for engineered beams says
    this is not recommended, etc.)  Just in case litigation is started in 
    this matter I thought I'd minimize my profile.  At this point the electrician 
    has tentatively agreed to pay for any engineering consultation costs and 
    remedial fixes required.  But then again he firmly believes there will
    be no costs, so we'll see.
    
    On top of that, this string of notes (other than first looking for
    structural engineer) shouldn't be in this note... so I'll be deleting
    this note in a day or two.
    
    
    

    Have you considered filling the holes with a two part epoxy. I use West
    System for everything on my boat and house that I dont want to ever
    take apart. They make many different type of fillers that could be
    added. I would tape the lower part of the holes, then fill from the
    higher side. Let it set up. Then tape the high side and use a syringe
    to finish off the hole.
    
    Steve
    

    
    I could, but it won't do anything except cosmetic.  The wood fibers on
    the bottom of a beam are under tension and although epoxy might be
    great under compression, I doubt it would do much under tension.  If
    the hole was above the centerline of the beam then filling the hole
    with a bolt is the recommended procedure as the bolt will take/transmit
    the compression forces.  Also, although Simpson Strong Ties just got
    BOCA approval for one of its epoxies (used to hold anchor bolts in
    concete), I know of no other code approved epoxies that are recognized 
    as structural components.

    how much should i expect to pay per hour to a designer
    for a set of drawings for an addition ? i assume an architect's 
    hourly rate is greater than that of a designer/builder.
    
    my preference is for a builder who can do his own drawings rather
    than employ and pay a third party for these services.
    
    thanks.

Can anyone recommend a good Structural Engineer to inspect a house in
Charlton MA?  (Charlton is surrounded by Leicester, Oxford, Sturbridge,
Spencer)

We just had a home inspector look at a 3 year old house (colonial
salt-box) we are considering buying and we noticed some slanted
floors.  Upon closer inspection we found that the main load bearing
wall on the first floor is offset from the main house beam by 2 or 3
feet.  We believe an offset of less than the height of the floor joist
(9 inches) is allowable.  We would like to know if this is a serious
structural problem, if it needs to have more support, or if all the
sagging it will ever do has already happened.

Any comments?  Any recommendations for a Structural Engineer?

If you have any comments not suitable for the notes conference please
contact me at CIMT::THORPE or DTN 225-6544.

Thanks,
Bill

    ANY FEEDBACK on working with either John Dunbar (Architect/Acton) and
    John Aucoin (builder/Stow) would be appreciated.
    
    ever::laliberte or [email protected]
    
    thanks!