Conference 7.286::home_work

>        I am interested in buying rough-sawn lumber for cost considerations
>    and am looking for milling services at reasonable cost.  
    
    You didn't give a clue as to where you live, but....
    
    Two places you can buy the wood are Palmer-Parker in Tewksbury,
    MA, and Bingham Lumber in Lunenberg, MA.
    
    A place you can bring it to have it milled the way you want it is
    The Woodery, in Lunenburg, MA.
    

    

    
    
    	Another saw mill is Hirsch's Lumber in Townsend. The people
    there are very helpful and prices are very reasonable - They'll
    cut the wood to just about any custom size - I called in for a 
    10"x12"x16' beam once, it was ready within couple of days, as far 
    as any other custom milling is concerned, such as notching, you'll 
    have to give them a call. 
        		

    New England Hardwood in Littleton can do the work for you also.
    They sell a wide variety of hardwood, in rough cut grades and have
    a shop to do most anything you want done.
    
    -bill

    
    I know of many sawmills where I can get inexpensive stock
    (such as $.45/BF for 1D oak), but most sawmills will not
    plane or mill the lumber.  I'm looking to buy 1K BF, let
    it air dry and then have it milled (for flooring, for
    furniture projects).  I belong to a woodworker's guild which
    has a nice shop, but they do a serious bum when I use the
    planer for >50 BF of stock.
    
    Parlee deals almost exclusively in eastern white pine.
    NE Hardwood is fairly costly (~$2.00 BF).
    
    For a directory of ALL the sawmills and what they cut for
    an individual state, call the folks below:
    
    Dept. Envir. Management   100 Cambridge St., Boston, MA 02202
    
    Ext. Serv., Peter Hall, UNH, Durham, NH 03824  603-862-1028
    
    I'll give the Woodery a call and see what services they provide.
    
    
    -Chris

    I believe most of the places listed will do what you want.
    (You provide the wood and they mill it).
    
    I've done this at the Woodery in Lunenburg.  I bought the
    wood at Bingham Lumber in Brookline, NH.  
    
    I think I paid $.25/linear foot to add a tongue & groove to oak boards.

    I am in need of some wide victorian window and door casing. By wide I 
    mean over 5 inches, which immediately puts me out of the standard
    offerings. Although I know I can "piece" standard offerings together to
    get the results, I have yet to see an example of this that satisfies my
    eye.
    
    SO, I am in search of a Millworks place with a molder with LOTS of
    knives to chose from. I know the place in Wilton NH (I live in Milford
    NH) makes machines to do this, but I really don't want to buy a machine. 
    I am in need of around 200 - 250'. I realize the major cost is setup, 
    not the making of the casing. Unfortunately the places I have called 
    won't even talk to me since I ONLY need 200' (at $2-$5/foot, that's 
    plenty...).
    
    Any suggestions? I have a catalog from Victorian Millworks from Texas,
    but its not thick enough (I'm probably looking at 4/4). Arvids has yet
    to send me a catalog. I have a router, but I do not want this stuff to
    look home made.
    
    Thanks for your responses....
    

    Maybe asking the question in the traditional woodworking note will
    help.  You might even get a volunteer that wants to use some of his
    (her) obscure molding planes.  
    
    George

Hi,

	There is a firm in Peperell Ma, on Brookline St that specializes in
reproduction woodwork. They can literally make any moulding that is out there.
Of course I'll bet it comes with a good price attached. With a little luck they
will have already made the tooling for the moulding you have.

	Sorry, I don't remember the name of the place, but its on Brookline st
just about a 200 yds from the corner of Brookline st and rt111.

P

    I have a williams and hussy molding plainer .If you can send a pieceof
    what you are looking for , I should be able to give you a price o the
    cutters and lumber. I dry my own lumber in a kiln I built a year ago.
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    Lou Raymond 243-2465 spo

	You could try OLDE BOSTONIAN for used stuff.  They are in
	??Dorchester??.

	Also, if you buy a copy of Fine Home Building Magazine, 
	there are adds for lots of places that can make up
	what ever you want. 

	tom

    
    
    There is another small time millwork shop in Fremont, NH, who does a
    lot of custom moldings and planning.  I believe the name is Gelinas
    millwork but the phone number is in Haverhill.  I'll post the 
    phone number is someone needs it.  I got some maple flooring from him,
    he prices are real cheap but he was very very slow.
    

    You might also want to stop at Maki Home Center in Gardner Ma. They
    sell some oak (and white pine) victorian molding that look really nice.
    It may not fit your need but you never know. I only wish I had a house
    that could carry that molding (I have an old colonial).
    		Cindy
    

    (Can't think of a better place to ask this...)
    
    Does anybody have any figures on how much lumber (PT in this case)
    weighs per board-foot?  If this information is elsewhere in this file,
    I will appreciate a pointer.
    
    Erik

>    Does anybody have any figures on how much lumber (PT in this case)
>    weighs per board-foot?  If this information is elsewhere in this file,

    PT lumber will vary by a *GREAT* amount. I've picked up pieces of
    PT that seem to weigh about the same as non-PT lumber and then
    I've picked up pieces that were soaking wet and seem to weigh
    *MANY* times more than a comparable piece.

    I think that the rating, .40 CCA, has something to do with the
    amount of treatment that has been added to the wood. For example,
    .40 would mean that chemicals were added that average 40% of the
    weight of the wood. But again, after handling many pieces of PT at
    the lumber yard, It's obvious that there is not any standard
    weight.

    Charly

    As -.1 said, it will vary greatly.  Densities of differnt species are
    known but the wieght will change with the amount of moisture present. 
    If the material has been dried for awhile and not stored outside or at
    least been covered, it will weigh less than a freshly treated piece.  
    
    Brian<

    The application is an anchored raft on a lake.  So it will be exposed
    to the elements but all of the wood will normally be out of the water.
    
    The float drums that are providing the buoyancy are rated in pounds.
    I am looking for a way to estimate how many people the raft will be
    able to support given a certain number of drums.  A heavy frame is
    also nice for stability.
    
    Thanks
    

    The specific gravity of Eastern White Pine is about .33 when green.  You 
    should be able to figure out density per cu.ft. and then how much each 
    board ft. should weigh.  The figures vary by species but most PT is
    pine, yes?  
    
    Brian

>    The specific gravity of Eastern White Pine is about .33 when green.  You 
>    should be able to figure out density per cu.ft. and then how much each 
>    board ft. should weigh.  The figures vary by species but most PT is
>    pine, yes?  

	Yes, but it's Southern Yellow Pine - a fair bit heavier.

	You might consider the wood/plastic composite called 'Trex',
made by Mobil.  Heavy, dense, waterproof - you should be able to get
it easily in 5/4 by 6" decking.  Use the PT for the frame, cover with
this stuff, and avoid splinters and paint and nasty toxic stuff.

	And be sure to sink your fasteners BELOW the surface.  There's
nothing like jumping out of a cool lake onto the deck that's been
baking in the sun and finding a nail head in contact with skin...

    Okay. Specific gravities for Pine varieties vary from about .34 to .54
    when green.  Virginia pine is .45, Ponderosa is .40.  Anyway, a
    synthetic would probably last longer as suggested and be less splinter
    prone unless it was covered with carpeting or fake astro-turf.   
    
    Brian

    Since someone else asked off line, the densities in lbs./cu.ft. in the
    previous post are as follows:
    
    	  \ Moisture 	
    Species\content %	12	32	
    ________\			
    
    Eastern White	23.8	28.0
    Virginia		32.2	37.9
    Ponderosa		28.0	32.9
    
    There is approx a 1 lb./cu.ft. difference for every 4% of moisture
    content.  Actually it varies from about .7 to 1.0.  For pressure
    treatment, add 0.25 to 0.60 p.c.f. regardless of the rating.  
    
    Brian