Conference 7.286::home_work

Water or steam might do it.  A lot of old veneer is put on with hide glue which 
is water soluable.

Paul

    Try hot vinegar to dissolve the glue. Whenever you remove veneer,
    though, you might not like what is underneath.
    
    
    JPR
    

    
    I agree with .2  I thought the whole idea of veneer was to provide
    an attractive surface to an unattractive base.  Did they cover mahogany
    with this veneer???
    
    Phil

    The veneer covers an oak base but when the veneer itself starts
    to bubble up and split then it's no longer an attractive surface.Right
    now that side of the table has part of the oak exposed as well as
    the veneer. I think that I'll still have to take the veneer off
    of at least that part of the table, sand off the finish on the rest
    of the table and try to blend it all with a finish stain? I'm pretty
    open to suggestions.
    
    Mike

    How about some new veneer?
    
    It's not THAT hard to do, and you can probably find something that
    almost matches.  Then all you gotta do is the parts that are bad.
    
    -bill

    Does anyone know the size of a standard regulation pool table? 
    I'm putting a room in my cellar and need this info.  Also,
    I suspect that the wood stove that I put in should not be too
    near to the pool table because the heat could affect the wood,
    etc.  Anyone have any similar situation/solution?  Thanks
    
    
    Jack

	I will check the Architectual Graphics Standard tonight.  

	American Tournament Size Pool Table playing surface is 5'x10'
	with approximately 6" for bumpers, pockets and sides.  You can get 
	"club" size tables down to 4'x8'

	There should be atleast 1 stick(5'?) clearance on each side and above 
	the table measured from the cushions.  This should place the table 
	far enough from the stove so it will not overheat, but for player saftey
	you should measure the clearance from the boundry of the non-combustible
	area as specified by the stove manufacturer.  I.E. if the manufacturer
	specifies no cumbustibles within 3' of the front of the stove, then the
	pool table should not be any closer then 8'.  Without the stove you 
	should have a room that is 20'x15'x8'

-mark

We had a room added to our house just to hold the antique pool table,
and the builder assured us the "normal" requirement to allow clearance
around the table is a room 14' x 20'.  We don't have a wood stove so
that was not part of his calculation.  

We've used the table for the past few years in a too-small room and 
it is a real pain, we can't wait to finish off the new room and have 
the table set up so we can play!


Jan

       re:.2 - I second that size.
    
    However, have you ever played on a 9' table?  

    I believe a good 8' (4X8) is appropriate for the home.  If you are
    good enough to play in tournaments than a 9 footer.  Brunswick
    recommends 13.5' width for a 4X8' and 14' for a 4.5X9'.
    
    Club or Bar tables are usually 3.5X7'.
    
    Dave
    
    
    PS  When you get old and gray, (or drunk) you won't be able to see
        the ball on those "lots-of-green" shots on a nine footer!

					Cue Sizes
Table Size	    57"             52"             48"             42"

   9'
50" X 100"    13'8" X 17'10"    13' X 17'      12'2 X 16'4    11'2" X 15'4"
 
 8'(OVERSIZE)   
46" X 92"     13'4" X 17'2"   12'6" X 16'4"  11'10" X 15'8"   10'10 X 14'8"

 8'(HOMESIZE)
44" X 88"     13'2" X 16'10"  12'4" X 16'     11'8" X 15'4"   10'8" X 14'4"

   7'
38" X 76"     12'8" X 15'10" 11'10" X 15'     11'2" X 14'4"   10'2" X 13'4"

   6'
32" x 64"     12'2" X 14'10"  11'4" X 14'     10'8" X 13'4"    9'8" X 12'4" 



	I recommend the 8' HOMESIZE for recreational play with a 52" stick.
	You could get away with slighty less room on one side with two 
	different lengths of sticks.

	Chuck

    The information is greatly appreciated.
    
    Jack

re: .4  (lot's of green)

Most of the felt on 9 footers are gold colored.

Bob

    
    
    I have a pool table that is a press board bed or some type of
    material that is not slate. The table, felt, and banks are
    in great shape but the bed is warped to the point you can't
    adjust it anymore. 
    Has anyone ever re-built a pool table ? I was just wondering
    if I would be able to put down a new bed and preserve and
    re-use the felt, and if the banks would be affected in any
    way?
    
    ace
    

    
    You can rebuild it, but it I very seriously doubt its worth it.
    
    If you post the brand/size/model I can prbably tell you more info.
    
    Also, it depends upon what you want to do with it.
    
    If you decide to pull the felt and bumpers, you can then replace
    the surface and reuse the felt and bumpers.  This won't cost too
    much, but the particle/press board you would be using wouldn't be
    flat enough for the pool table to play properly.  You would be very
    hard pressed to find a supplier of the surface that has the quality
    you need.
    
    In other words, you will spend a full day (if you know what you
    are doing and maybe more if you dont) and some amount of money,
    and the table you would get out of it would not be very good.
    
    DJ
    

    
    I did mine, and it worked great!!!!!!  Buy 3/4 inch particle
    board, the table probably only has 1/2, but 3/4 won't warp
    as fast.
    
    All I did was the following:
    
    Removed the bumpers and the felt cover, layed the old table top
    over the new particle board and marked it for length and the 
    hole cut outs.  Made my cuts and reassembled.
    
    The entire project cost me $15 dollars and 4 hours of work.  
    
    If you're looking to play on a championship table maybe you'll
    want to buy a new table.  But if you're looking for fun and games
    and a cheap investment this is the way to go!!!!!!!!
    
    Shane
    

    
    RE .2
    
    	Sorry.  I have to keep reminding myself that what I consider
    "not worth it" might be "worth it" for someone else.  I have been
    spoiled by some really good tables, so for ME a particle board surface
    just doesn't cut cake.
    
    	When you did your's, how long did it take to drop the new surface
    in, and how long did it take for you to align it?
    
    Dave J.
    

    
    
    in answer to .1 ....   It is a Jordan table, I don't know the model
    number but it is a 7' table. It is a very sturdy table a nice looking
    one, even though it is not slate it does play well. I would rather
    a slate table but my 6 and 9 year old kids will be playing on it
    so I want to teach them on that before I invest in a real good one.
    
    now...  .2
    
    your saying you went from the top down .. I was planning on working
    from the bottom up and not removing the bumpers, my main concern
    was if the bumper felt was also the table felt ?!?... I'll have
    to look at it from that angle ! Thanks for the input ..
    
    ace_who_can't_wait_to_chalk_up_that_cue_again !!
    

There's an article in the Fine Woodworkig Magazine that I got over the weekend 
about building a pool table.  Probably a lot of what is covered in the article 
would apply to re-building one also.

Paul

    Does anyone know where I could get a copy of the article in 
    Fine Woodworking?  i've tried to find the mag in various stores
    with no luck.  Even the local library didn't carry it.
    Thanks                  
    
    Jeff Amberson BPO1

>>    Does anyone know where I could get a copy of the article in 
>>    Fine Woodworking?  

Coldwell's in Berlin Mass. usually has copies of Fine Home Building 
and Fine Wood Working available for sale.

Charly

    Thanks
    Jeff

    I have a 9x5', one inch slate Brunswick regulation table.  As I recall,
    the playing surface is 8x4 and as previously indicated you need
    about five feet clearance around the table.  That adds up to about
    19x15 area.  I have the room and would probably do the same if I
    had it to do over again, but I wouldn't recommend regulation size
    for everyone.  A good home size table would be even more fun for
    the less proficient players and therefore better entertainment for
    parties, would cost less and require alot less space.

I had (just sold it to to lack of room) a home size 8' table. MOST cues
are 57", and you need a little room to stroke the cue, on a 4' inside 
playing surface, you need 14'6" of width. LESS WIDTH WILL REQUIRE A SHORT
CUE FOR SOME SHOTS. I don't buy the 13' width dimensions from Brunswick,
NO WAY, that's just not enough room. Take it from someone with experience
with short cues. Hope you have fun on your new table....

Steve

	Anybody out there ever move a pool table?

	I'm in the process of selling my pool table, and consequently
	need to know more about how to move it from one house to another.
	Specifically the table is an 8' Brunswick Richmon.  It has a
	three section 3/4" slate bed.  I've been told that its necessary
	to break down the table because the slate is in three sections.

	The store I bought it from (Bemister's, Salem, N.H.) wants
	$275 to move it!


			Jim

    i've moved a pool table 3 times..... this has one solid 3/4" slate...
    i have had to take it apart each time....
    
    it is not that bad to take apart.... take off bumpers all around
    remove the felt...move the slate...notice how they join the 3 pieces.
    usually wax or something to fill in the gaps.... kind of like plaster
    on dry wall.
    
    after that the frame work comes apart easy...
    
    even if you were to move it whole i doubt the seal between slate
    pieces would make it ...
    
    BTW... it should be alot easier to move three pieces of slate than
    one solid one....believe me
    
    

	-.1

	has it about right.  The tough part isn't in knocking it down
	and moving it .... it's in setting the thing back up correctly !

	Leveling a table properly takes a lot of know-how and a very
	good level (not your run-of-the-mill carpenter's level).  I've
	done it without one and it's very tricky.  

	Chuck    

    One thing you may consider is breaking it down and moving it yourself
    and then assembling the frame at the new location. Then have a
    professional installer set and seam the slate and restretch the felt
    covering and install the pockets and bumpers.  If the felt is worn, 
    then this is the perfect time to replace it.
                                     
    You might try Eastern Billiards, they are a Brunswick dealer and
    they did a great job setting up my table.  Reply 3927.2 is correct
    about the leveling.....they used a machinists level to true the
    surface. And they used hot beasway to seal the slate seams.

	Thanks all for the good information.

	Re: .3, can you tell me where (which town/city) Eastern Billiards
	is located?


			Jim

I had Boston Billiards set up my table ~5 years ago.  I set up the frame myself
and leveled the slates as best as I could.  I wanted to be sure that the table 
would be setup correctly and be level so I had Boston Billiards come in to 
finish the job.  They came without a level, borrowed mine and said that it 
looked pretty good (in terms of level).  The table seems to play well and seems
to be level so I'm satisfied.  I guess the moral might be that machinist's 
levels, etc. may be overkill.  Then again, I may not be very discriminating.

    Eastern Billiards
    Winchester, MA
    617-729-1880   
    
      

    
    I've done this just recently with the same table and here
    is what I would suggest:
    
    Build crates for the individual slates. This makes it easy to
    handle and also protects them rateher well.
    
    Use a plaster of paris in the seams between slates. There is
    no need to pile the stuff on as the seam is only hairline.
    
    A good level and the queue ball work graeat for leveling the
    slates.
    
    The MOST IMPORTANT. Make sure the base is level to perfection.
    After setting up the base let it sit with weight on top of it to
    allow for any settling and than recheck level.
    
    Good Luck
    Drew