T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
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297.1 | Input on time/cost for various projects | ISBG::POWELL | Reed Powell - LCG Marketing - 297-4261 | Tue Feb 03 1987 11:56 | 117 |
| Here are my thoughts, based up on my experience in putting on a
1000 sq ft addition and expanding various interior rooms in the
existing house:
>Adding a one or two car attached garage
If you are talking just the garage, not a room above it, then it
is a simple project: one in which you can do the majority of the
work yourself. You will want a contractor to do the excavation/forms
and pouring; that will rung around $5K. The cost of doing the walls
and a simple room will be around another 5-6K, including interior
finishing, and will take about 2-3 solid weeks, depending on how
many people can help you put up the walls and roof.
Personally, I would put a room above it as well, although this can
be done as a seperate step after doing the above. The cost of the
framing for everything will be around $10-12K. The siding (vinyl)
will be around $3k for the addition. Windows vary depending on
quality and manufacturer (see related recent notes). Total cost
excluding windows and plumbing fixtures will be around $25K or so.
Rough plumbing should cost around $1500 or so, depending on where
your current plumbing runs relative to the location of the addition.
>Adding a family room
Do you mean in the existing house? Like turning the existing garage
into a family room (I assume all of these questions are sort of
related). I am turning our old garage into an extension of the
existing family room, which are adjacent. Cost of doing the finishing
of the garage is around $1K or so; that includes framing, subfloor,
insulation in the floor and outside walls, plywood floor, and
sheetrock. Excludes carpeting and wall coverings. Does include
electrical. Does not include the rough plumbing for the 1/2 bath
I am putting it (give that serious thought). The latter is costing
around another grand or so, because of all the labor involved in
digging into the foundation to run the drain.
>Removing a non-supporting wall
The average (10' long or so) non-bearing wall can be removed in
a day, non including getting any furniture, etc., out of the way
and hanging any necessary tarps (there will be a lot of dust!).
Watch out for electrical wiring - even if there are no outlets on
the wall. Best thing to do if the wall is finished is to run down
the middle of it vertically with a sledge, and then check to see
if there is any wiring. Then just pull off the sheetrock to get
to the studs, pull out any insulation, and take out the studs.
The latter is the hardest part, but considerably easier if you use
a reciprocating (aka Sawzall) saw. Then it is a piece of cake.
Can rent them at Taylors, etc., or buy one at Spages for $119
(makita).
Be sure that you know for sure that it is a non-bearing wall. If
not sure, then do one of the following: 1) put a note in here with
a description, 2) ask your building inspector to stop by and look
at it, 3) as any contractor friends you might know, or 4) drop me
a line.
>Installing an attic fan
This is one of the best investments you can make - does wonders
in the summertime. Mine went in in an afternoon. The directions
are usually pretty good. Be careful about cutting the size of the
hole in the ceiling - be conservative, as it is easier to make it
bigger, and trying to match colors, etc., in making it smaller is
impossible. Then pass the fan up through the opening into the attic.
Be sure you secure it well when you mount it - be very aggressive.
This is the one area where the directions could have been better,
as I need to go up sometime an do a little more work on mine to
keep it from resonating so much at certain speeds. Be sure to check
where the wiring runs before cutting the hole, so that you can either
avoid the wiring or cut it and move it. Remember that all splices
have to be inside of a box. I also put in a cutoff switch just
inside the hatch into the attic, so that I could shut off the power
before going into the attic. Finally, be sure you have enough
ventilation from the attic (vents), as the attic fan will not function
that well if there is nowhere for the air to go. No free ride,
just like plumbing.
>Re-flooring a kitchen floor
There have been a lot of other notes on this. Depends on whether
you have tile, linoleum/congloleum, or whatever, and what you are
going to. If you don't have tile, and are going to tile, consider
another layer of plywood to keep the tiles in place; you've have
to figure out how to make this match the rest of the adjoining house.
>Adding an enclosed, 3-season deck
This one really depends on the size and scope. For example, we
put a 6x15 non-enclosed deck off of the new master bedroom. Cost
was around $500 for materials and labor. The previous owner put
a 2 level deck on the existing house that is 15' in depth from the
house, and 30' in length total (but not a square), with a shed in
a corner of the lower level, both levels floored, and stairs up
to the second level. I figure that that would cost around $3k in
materials today, and god knows how much in labor - around $1k probably.
>Adding X ft. of driveway
Ask me in the spring - that's when the new driveway goes in (finally!)
>Removing a supporting wall
In general this is the easiest - don't do it! This is a lot more
serious - hopefully that is obvious. Give us more info whenyou
have specifics on where it is in the house, type of house, size
of wall, and maybe we can help you. If you are thinking of doing
it to a house you are thinking of buying, then your best bet is
to talk to the building inspector and ask him to take a look at
it and give you advice. Or a contractor. or an architect/designer.
Remember though that not all exterior walls are supporting walls:
In the typical ranch style house, the ends are non-supporting and
can be removed almost at will (that is how I am breaking in between
the old house and the new addition, for instance), so long as
appropriate headers are installed so that the wall itself is
self-supporting.
-reed
|
297.2 | alwaYS COSTS MORE | WORDS::BADGER | Can Do! | Wed Feb 04 1987 15:32 | 6 |
|
Figure cost as carefully as you can...then multiply by two! Then
you *might* be close
;-] ed
|
297.3 | More $$$ figures requested | 3363::MORGAN | Did Adam and Eve have navels? | Wed Feb 04 1987 16:21 | 12 |
| How about these?
1. What's the average cost of adding a bay/bow/whatever window where
a standard window now exists? What's the average price for one
of these windows? What about labor?
2. What's the average cost of adding a dormer to a cape?
I guess I'd like things broken down into materials/labor since luckily
there's a carpenter in the family!
-- Jim
|
297.4 | Reference Source | GING::GINGER | | Mon Feb 09 1987 22:46 | 32 |
| It seems like estimating building costs is one of the more frequent
questions in this Note file. The following may be helpfull.
Many contractors develop their estimates by using a standard cost
book, just like most auto mechanics use a standard time and rate
book. I am familiar with two such standard cost books.
The one I like best is from Home-Tech Publishing Co, 5161 River
Rd, Bethesda MD 20816, 301/654-8380. Their book has EVERY step of
construction spelled out in 26 catagories begining with Plans and
Permits and ending with Clean-up and Debris Removal. Each item has
a unit of measure, like Sq Ft or Lin Ft, a unit cost for Material,
labor and Subcontractor. The book costs $37 and includes a one year
subscription to their quarterly update sheet which gives adjustment
factors for your specific geographic area. They will accept telephone
orders{with MasterCard. I used this book as the basis for a system
I developed for my contractor brother which he now uses for all
his estimates. (I considered putting this database on the net, but
the book is copyrighted and it doesnt seem appropriate)
The second book is National Construction Estimator from the Craftsman
Book Co. 6058 Corte del Cedro, PO Box 6500, Carlsbad CA 92008. It
costs $16 and includes generally the same items as teh above book,
but does not offer the local corrections or updates. It also has
a large commercial section I find of little use. Did you know a
20 stop elevator, 700ft per minute should cost $182,000 plus $4850
for each additional stop?
It would seem to me anyone contemplating a major home improvement
would do well to get a book like this- chances are good your friendly
contractor will be reading the same book!
|
297.5 | | PTOVAX::REARICK | Jack Rearick | Tue Feb 17 1987 01:12 | 17 |
|
RE: .0 & .1
The only item I'll venture to help you on is the price of a garage.
Assuming you mean a 2 car detached garage, I built one about 10
years ago that is 36'x22' with a half basement, all block with a
gable roof and 6" of concrete on the floor and it only cost me ~$5,000
including labor for the block laying and concrete finishing.
My father-in-law just built a 24'x24' block garage with gable roof,
vinyl siding, concrete floor, electric, windows, and door opener
for $6500 complete (i.e. contractor job NO DIY). So unless the
costs for things where you live are 5x what it is hear in ol'
Pittsburgh PA, I'd say that 25K is a bit high for a garage.
Jack Rearick.
|
297.11 | Tax Side of Home Improvements | NISYSG::PAGLIARULO | | Tue Sep 15 1987 13:56 | 20 |
| I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask but it seems
like a problem that would be of interest to DIY'ers so here goes.
As I understand it, although home improvements are not tax deductable
their cost can be added to the basis of a house so that, for tax
purposes, your profit is less whenever you sell. People who contract
to have the work done can add the entire cost, both materials and labor,
to their basis whereas people who do the work themselves only have
the cost of material.
Is there an IRS acceptable method to figure out what your labor is
worth so that this too can be added to the house basis?
For those who don't know what I'm talking about, the basis is the
cost of the house. If you buy a house for $100,000 this is the
original basis. If you make $30,000 worth of improvements the basis
is now $130,000. If you sell for $200,000, you only have to claim a
$70,000 porfit rather than a $100,000 profit.
George
|
297.12 | | ALIEN::WEISS | Trade freedom for security-lose both | Tue Sep 15 1987 14:00 | 5 |
| As far as I know you're perfectly free to tack on whatever amount you'd like
for your own labor. There's only one catch - you have to pay income tax now on
whatever amount you specify.
Paul
|
297.13 | renovation vs maintenance; getting back labor costs | HPSVAX::POWELL | Reed Powell (HPS/LCG Marketing | Tue Sep 15 1987 14:28 | 27 |
| You left out one other significant component of the basis important
to DYIers: Although doing maintenance oriented things like painting,
etc., do not normally contribute to the basis because they are not
renovations, the IRS books say quite clearly that if you are doing
a renovation and also do things like painting, etc., on other parts
of the house, then those expenses normally classified as maintenance
are not classified as renovation.
In other words, if you are on a big maintenance kick, find some
renovation work in the same time period so that you have receipts
that can be bundled together.
I have not seen anything in the IRS books that talked about your
own labor, but would suspect that .-1 is right: if you claim your
labor against the renovation, then you also have to claim the income.
Instead, just keep track of EVERYTHING related to the addition,
including things like tooks and supplies that a contractor would
not have included as "materials" on his bill, and therefore this
compenstates some for his labor costs vs your ability to claim such
costs for your own labor. Did I say that clearly? If you buy a
$150 Skill-saw, for instance. The contractor has one, but it is
not part of the materials (like the 2x4s) on his bill to you, since
it is part of his business. But you and all his other customers
are paying for that saw. So, you claim the whole saw with the
renovation, and that makes up for a good chunk of what would have
been his labor costs to you.
|
297.14 | might be pushing it there | GRUNT::FOX | | Tue Sep 15 1987 17:34 | 7 |
| RE .2
Regarding claiming the entire cost of the saw - is'nt that like
trying to claim the cost of the suits you wear to work? I mean
granted the saw was required to do that one renovation job, but
it also can be used for other non-renovation items that would
not fall under items that increase your basis.
John
|
297.15 | Aren't taxes fun?? | TUNDRA::MCQUIDE | | Wed Sep 16 1987 21:04 | 18 |
| Sorry, but I have to disagree on your trying to claim the cost of
tools as part of your improvement costs. The IRS says that only
"the costs of the improvements that add to the value of property,
lengthen its life, or adapt it to a different use is
added to your basis in the property..." The saw is not an inherent
part of the improvement and therefore is not part of the cost.
In other words, the saw is not adding to the value of the home but
your new garage that you built with the saw does.
Now that everyone is clear on that (I hope, but doubt) there is
the discussion on claiming your own labor. I too could not find
in the IRS publications anything specific about ones own labor time
but find it bvery hard to believe that they would allow it. it
is not a cost to you that was either paid for in cash, check or
everyones favorite, MasterCard.
|
297.16 | taxes and depreciation | SVCRUS::KROLL | | Thu Sep 17 1987 00:18 | 6 |
| you might look into the depreciation of the tool over a 3 to five
year period. Do not give up the IRS will let you do it.
As for claiming your labor costs I would not like to do that because
not only will you have to pay income taxes on it but social secrity
as well.
|
297.17 | | ZEN::WINSTON | Jeff Winston (Hudson, MA) | Thu Sep 17 1987 00:58 | 2 |
| there may be an analogy to deducting the cost of your time that you
donate to charity (you can't)
|
297.18 | I wouldn't claim my labor cost | MSEE::CHENG | | Thu Sep 17 1987 09:57 | 5 |
| I wouldn't claim my labor cost. Why should I pay the income tax
( + S.S ) for my labor cost NOW, and knowing that I will get the
same amount of money back, let say 10 years from now after the house
is sold.
|
297.19 | Ya canna do it, laddie! | HPSVAX::SHURSKY | Shoot 'em all, let God sort 'em out. | Thu Sep 17 1987 12:34 | 9 |
| I am not a tax authority, but I do my own taxes, have had a number
of houses and have looked into this. Unless the last tax revision
changed things, I can confidently say "Ya canna do it!". If you
want to deduct labor costs you are going to have to pay someone
else to do the labor. Take your pick.
In addition, I don't believe you can depreciate the saw in the example
above unless it is used to produce income (i.e. rental real estate
repair; ok -- own home; no go, joe!).
|
297.20 | | CADSE::DIAMOND | | Thu Sep 17 1987 17:22 | 16 |
|
I am currently taking the H&R Block Tax Course. So I asked the
instructor about these questions that have come up here.
. You can deduct the Labor, but you have to include it as taxable
income, which should't work out to the good.
. You can only depreciate tools if it is to be used exclusively
on income property. If you also use it for personal use, then
you can't depreciate it.
I suppose you can do what ever you want, but if you get caught????
Mike
|
297.21 | Forget it! | HPSVAX::SHURSKY | Shoot 'em all, let God sort 'em out. | Fri Sep 18 1987 09:52 | 8 |
| re: .9
Let's stop and think about this for a second. You want to pay yourself
so you can deduct the labor. You have the same amount of cash in
your income (paying yourself doesn't increase income), yet you pay
more tax. You don't get any more cash until you sell the house and
recoup your investment. It doesn't take an MBA to figure out what to
do.
|
297.22 | Nit picking. | HPSVAX::SHURSKY | Shoot 'em all, let God sort 'em out. | Fri Sep 18 1987 10:04 | 7 |
| re: .9
You might ask the guy to check his answer about the saw. In nearly
all other areas of tax law, you can apportion the business and personal
use of something and depreciate the business portion. In other
words, if half the time the saw is used for the production of income
you can depreciate half of the cost.
|
297.23 | | MYVAX::DIAMOND | | Wed Sep 30 1987 11:56 | 22 |
|
Just checked some things over with my tax consultant.
For the new 1987 tax law.
. You cannot claim your labor in any renovations of your house,
or of any income property you own. If you pay someone to do the
work you can deduct the labor you pay them, bot not the labor
you pay yourself.
. Any item you buy which is to be deducted as use for income property
cannot be used also for personnel use. This is new for 87.
ex. If you buy a saw for and use it to do renovations on income
property you own, then in order to depreciate that saw, it may
not at any time within the year be used for personnel use.
The only exception to this is a Auto. An auto may be use for both
personnel and business, and depreciated by how much it is used
for business.
This is the latest from the IRS.
|
297.24 | Deduct interest | HPSRAD::ROSKILL | Movin' to Montana soon, gonna be a dental floss tycon | Thu Nov 12 1987 11:16 | 8 |
|
Sort of a side topic, but tax/home repair related, is the deduction
of interest on a loan for home improvements. I believe that while
most interest is no longer deductible, interest on a home improvement
loan is deductible. This should include stuff bought at Somerville
Lumber on a credit card that you pay 18% on ( if you are that stupid).
Jon
|
297.25 | Not deductible | DOODLE::GREEN | | Thu Nov 12 1987 12:00 | 12 |
| re: Note 1527.13
> This should include stuff bought at Somerville
> Lumber on a credit card that you pay 18% on ( if you are that stupid).
I don't think this is true. To be deductible, the loan has to be secured by
a lien on the house. Mortgages, home equity, and home improvement loans
all have liens on the house. If you just charge home improvement products
on a credit card, the interest isn't deductible (except to the extent that
all credit card interest is partially deductible as part of the phase out)
|
297.26 | Sales Tax too- Nada! | DELNI::MHARRIS | Mark Jay Harris, Term Srvr Mktg Mgr | Tue Nov 17 1987 08:33 | 9 |
| I was told the exact same thing last year. Interest is NOT
deductible for your home improv project. Only when you
secure with a 2nd mortgage type arrangement. (which I did).
Infact, I am told that the sales tax for materials is no longer
deductible beginning this year either...
M
|
297.27 | | MYVAX::DIAMOND | | Tue Nov 17 1987 12:38 | 5 |
|
Just off the Press. Home Equity loans of any kind will no longer
be tax deductable. This has to do with the new budget cuts from
congress.
|
297.28 | don't bet on it | ZEN::WINSTON | Jeff Winston (Hudson, MA) | Tue Nov 17 1987 22:29 | 15 |
| > Just off the Press. Home Equity loans of any kind will no longer
> be tax deductable. This has to do with the new budget cuts from
> congress.
this is just a proposal. Not law. And even if they do make I law, I
have no doubt that banks will start offering cheap <refinancing> of
first mortgages, in some sort of tiered fashion, which will provide
the same borrowing power. (conversely, since you can't outlaw this
without outlawing deductibility of primary mortgasges altogether, i am
skeptical of this proposal becoming law).
Further, would they really make H.E. loans undeductible while consumer
interest is still partially deductible?
|
297.31 | How to increase Home Value? | OLDMIS::SYSTEM | | Thu Apr 14 1988 10:54 | 42 |
| I may also pose this question in the REAL_ESTATE conference...
I took a look around (using DIR/TITLE) and couldn't really find
anything, except for a note or so on costs, so here goes.
I'd like to hear thoughts on improving house value/attractiveness,
ie; what folks would do or have done to make their home worth more
as well as more appealing (I know tastes are different, so no big
deal).
By this I mean things that are not too big of a job, like adding
a room, or adding a floor or garage (to me those are big jobs and
cost big dollars), I would like to hear ideas
on the smaller jobs (ie.. not too expensive), and perhaps the types
of things one would not necessarily have to be a professional to
do? (actually maybe it would be a good idea to just included
"everything" under this note, don't matter to me really).
Some examples (am not sure if these add value, I would "think"
they do?) are :
o Perhaps adding a Laundry Chute?
o How about adding Sky lights?
o Ceiling fans?
o Decks - what types?
o wood paneling?
In a nutshell am getting close to buying my second home, and would
like ideas etc.. on some things to improve its value both to myself
and perhaps to others when/if I decide to put it on the market.
You can also include things like costs, how long it took to do
the improvement, any pros/cons?
Much thanks in advance.
Perry F.
----------
|
297.32 | | AUTHOR::WELLCOME | Steve Wellcome (Maynard) | Thu Apr 14 1988 11:52 | 23 |
| There was an article a while ago in one of the free advertising
newspapers that keep cluttering up my mailbox that listed the
relative paybacks of various kinds of home improvements. I expect
any good real estate office would have that kind of information,
or at least have some ideas. Of course, those generalities might
not apply to your specific case.
As I recall, skylights returned almost 100% of their cost. Another
bathroom was a big winner. Swimming pools were a BIG loser; a
majority of people see them as a liability. I can't remember any
of the others, although I assume painting/redecorating (if not done
in weird colors) would be a winner, especially if you provide the
labor.
Actually, I have some trouble with the idea of remodeling the house
I'm living in for the purpose of making it more attractive for somebody
else when I sell it. I'd encourage you to do what YOU want to make
the house more comfortable, livable, and attractive for YOU. Assuming
you don't have the artistic sense of a troglidite and you do whatever
you do competently and well, odds are you'll increase the house's
value. All other things being equal, it makes some sense to avoid
doing things that 95% of the rest of the people in the world would
hate, but if you REALLY want an in-ground pool and pink shutters
on a lime-green house, go for it!
|
297.33 | Pratical Homeowner | MOMAX1::PILOTTE | It just keeps getting better! | Thu Apr 14 1988 11:56 | 7 |
| check out the latest issue of Pratical Homeowener. They List 10
top projects to help increase the value of your house. It goes
into detail with cost estimates if you do the work yourself or if
a professional does it. It also gives you an idea of how the
investment will pay of in years to come.
|
297.34 | Some winners. | HPSVAX::SHURSKY | | Thu Apr 14 1988 12:28 | 18 |
| Inside the house the big winners are:
1) Nice bathrooms and number of bathrooms.
(4 bedrooms - 2-1/2 baths is a good number)
2) Nice kitchen.
Outside winners include:
1) Deck (extra "room" for 9 months of the year (in NE))
2) Nice well kept landscaping (curb appeal)
I have learned one thing in life, make the improvements when you
move in, not when you move out. That way you get to use them and
collect $$$ for having them when you sell.
Stan
|
297.35 | Add a closet, + 1 bedroom | HPSTEK::EKOKERNAK | | Thu Apr 14 1988 12:46 | 5 |
| You can turn a room into a bedroom by adding a closet. Just check
with the local officials to be sure the extra bedroom doesn't violate
something (like a septic plan).
Elaine
|
297.36 | There's such a thing as "too nice." | PSTJTT::TABER | Reach out and whack someone | Thu Apr 14 1988 13:33 | 17 |
| Re: .1
I saw one of those lists a year or so ago. One thing that really amused
me was that THE TOP payback )allegedly) came from putting glass doors on
the tub. It was listed as something like 150%.
> 2) Nice well kept landscaping (curb appeal)
Actually, you have to walk a fine line here. Rusty engine blocks on the
lawn are a clear lose. But oddly enough, a golf-green lawn or really
well-done plantings are also a lose. Just like pools, people look at
them and say, "Geeeez, I gotta take care a dat," and it scares them
away.
To get the best response, you have to strive for the dull average.
>>>==>PStJTT
|
297.37 | | RGB::SEILER | Larry Seiler | Thu Apr 14 1988 13:46 | 16 |
| A sort of obvious point - you get less payback if your house becomes
nicer than the average in your area. Presumably your payback is
better if you bring your house up to the level of the houses around.
I think a new kitchen was also on the list of improvements that
have a good payback. I've been told that extensive landscaping
brings back little.
My own feeling is that it's a good idea to keep selling the house
in mind when planning improvements. Aside from the obvious reason,
planning improvements that other people can use in a variety of
ways means that I can too, if and when my own tastes/requirements
change. (But I don't need a darkroom anymore - why didn't I design
this room so I could put in a window!)
Larry
|
297.38 | It's a fine line sometimes | ARCHER::FOX | | Thu Apr 14 1988 14:31 | 12 |
| The "nicer than the average house" problem can be a dilemma.
You may *want* to do things to your house, with resale value
of the improvement a close second. However, you don't want to
be faced with improvements that gain you little value for the
sole reason being that every other house on the block is
not at that level.
My example is a garage or mudroom addition to a gambrel style
home where no other cape/gambrel/garrison in the development
has one.
Where do you draw the line?
John
|
297.39 | Some landscaping is a good idea...;-) | HPSVAX::SHURSKY | | Thu Apr 14 1988 14:57 | 10 |
| re: .7 If you need it and want it, payback is second.
In my case a little landscaping is probably not a bad idea. I have
a lawn that has grown in nicely. I have 0 (zero) shrubs around
the foundation of the house. Time and money you know. I hope to
get a few in as soon as I can steal a few rocks for my low wall.
A few shrubs would kinda bring it up to neighborhood standards,
if you know what I mean. Dirt just doesn't cut it in Yuppietown.
Stan
|
297.40 | Is a garage a good for equity? | VAXWRK::BSMITH | Carnival Personnel Only...DAMN! | Thu Apr 14 1988 15:35 | 8 |
| This is an interesting note because I am currently thinking about what I should
do for the house now that will make it sell quickly and/or for a higher price.
My dilemma is a garage. Should I build one? Have it attached or detached?
One or Two car? It is a new development, there are three houses with attached
one car garages and one with a two car. About twenty homes have no garage,
although five are still unoccupied.
Brad.
|
297.41 | Thanks. | OLDMIS::SYSTEM | | Thu Apr 14 1988 15:43 | 68 |
| Lots of good points...
whatever improvments I do decide to make, will be made with my
tastes/needs first, as well as getting them done early on (ie...
not when we decide to sell) so that I can enjoy them.
I guess that I was sort of looking for different ideas on what
others have done etc... what they liked/disliked about them and
whether they indeed retained the value when it came or comes time
to sell, etc...
Some of the things I think I would like (will know better of course
when we get into the new house... hard to decide from memory ha
ha)... are :
Sky light
deck
garage door opener
The full glass door (in front of the door, ie, to replace a screen
door) in front of the house.
The glass sliders in one or both bathrooms would be nice too (my
opinion anyways).
Dunno if I will add a fireplace or not (surely can't do that job
on my own)
Yep, just ideas I've been kicking around, guess time/finances will tell
as to how much of these things I actually do.
Its just that while looking at homes, we got alot of good ideas,
and some things really stood out were impressive. Of course there
were the homes that were the "pits" as well.
But tastes vary.
sure while making some of these improvements I would like to think
they will be adding to the value as well as the appeal.
The house is about two years old and in great shape.. would like
to keep it that way and improve it.
Some of the things I did not like though were :
Ceiling fans that were so low, you had to duck when you walked
passed them.
Intercom systems built into walls (did not look professionally
done).
Rooms that were added on... seams visible everywhere, tape coming
undone.
Guess I just wanted to hear what others thought, what they liked
or disliked, what they thought would add value for the future or
what is mostly a waste value-wise etc, etc.
Some good feedback, and I do appreciate it.
Take care,
Perry F.
----------
|
297.42 | | EDUC8::PHILBROOK | Chico's Daddy | Thu Apr 14 1988 15:47 | 33 |
| I'll tell you what helped my wife and I decide to choose the house
we just bought.
Once you find the type of house you want (# of bedrooms, location,
etc.) you start looking at the amenities. The house we decided on
was completely remodeled 2 years ago - new kitchen appliances,
cabinets, linoleum, wallpaper. New bath fixtures, linoleum, wallpaper.
Every room has new wallpaper, freshly-painted ceilings, and
new wall-to-wall. The basement is finished off (important for a
3-bedroom ranch.) A mudroom off the kitchen was also added at the
time of renovations, and it was a big plus for us.
The yard meant little - as long as it was in decent shape and it
was usable (no slopes for me!) I like yardwork so I'm going to do
some landscaping on my own when I have the time.
Also, the backyard was enclosed last year with a 6' stockade fence -
that was a plus for us since we have a dog (not everyone wants a
fence, so I wouldn't advise putting money into one, just pointing out
some positive features from my perspective.)
The only work we have to do is paint the exterior (getting estimates
on that now), update the electrical service (install circuit breaker
and pipe 100 amp service into the house (about $1500), and build
a deck (new sliders were installed in the livingroom but the former
owners ran out of money and never built a deck.) We'll also eventually
replace the driveway (in rough shape) with a double-lane driveway
so we can park the cars side by side. We felt these improvements
were well worth it considering the condition of the rest of the
house.
Good luck!
Mike
|
297.43 | second the dull average | HPSTEK::EKOKERNAK | | Thu Apr 14 1988 16:27 | 12 |
| I've also seen houses as a buyer that are too finished, as person
said before. It's not clear if new carpet is a payoff if yours
is only 2-4 years old. If you put in brand new carpet, but the
new buyers hate the color, they would tear it up anyway! Wallpaper
is the same. Washing the walls and patching the holes is a win.
Refinishing and maintaining hardwood floors is a win. Scrubbing
scrolled plaster ceilings is a win. Replacing crumbling steps or
walkways helps a lot.
BUt that's not what .0 was asking...
Elaine
|
297.44 | My (very biased) opinion | PALMER::PALMER | half a bubble off plumb | Thu Apr 14 1988 16:38 | 25 |
|
If you think you can make money buying a house and paying someone
to fix it up you are kidding yourself. I think that if you do it
yourself you will at least break even if you plan carefully and
do what the market will bear. Always use quality material and do
good work. The only thing worse than a beat up place is one where
money was spent doing a second rate job. My neighbors did a quick
fix on their kitchen before they tried to sell. They picked up
the most god awful cabinets from a bargain outlet. I'm not saying
that you have to go top of the line with gold plated fixtures, just
use respected brands and keep with the period of the house.
I've pumped about $15K into my house in the last two years.
I've concentrated on the two high payback areas, redoing a kitchen
and adding a bath. I did this not to make money, but because my
house had a rotten kitchen and only a small bath. Thanks in large
part to the people in this file I was able to do the majority of
the work myself. Don't underestimate the sweat in sweat equity!
I guess the bottom line is to do things you want to do
but keep an eye on the resale. I think expensive projects should
be done first so at least you get to use and enjoy them for a while
(time value). A house is most peoples major financial investment
for the future. However you most be able to enjoy your home.
=Ralph=
|
297.45 | Another (biased) opinion | WORSEL::DOTY | ESG Systems Product Marketing | Thu Apr 14 1988 18:38 | 30 |
| From what I have read:
Interior paint -- neutral colors.
New carpets (if old carpets worn) -- neutral colors.
Paint or clean all trim.
Clean house. For showing house, make sure that things are picked
up and that the house is neat.
Exterior paint (neutral colors).
Neat, well maintained landscaping (not necessarily expensive or
extensive).
Renovation of kitchen and bathroom (if needed) can be a major win
-- if it is done properly.
In general, for widest appeal, colors should be neutral and everything
should be of good quality (and the appropriate quality level varies
depending on the house and neighborhood).
The other point is that value is to a large degree determined by
the neighborhood. If you have one of the cheaper houses in the
neighborhood, you can add quite a few improvements -- if you have
the most expensive house, then simply maintaining value is the safest
course.
My $.02
|
297.46 | Energy Related Improvements | FDCV03::PARENT | | Thu Apr 14 1988 18:42 | 8 |
| Various magazine articles I've seen indicate what's already been
confirmed in previous responses...kitchens and baths are the best
paybacks. One area I was a bit surprised about however is that
energy related improvements, such as replacement windows, updated
heating systems, etc. represent one of the smallest paybacks since
today's buyers expect energy efficient items.
ep
|
297.47 | Keep 'em coming... | OLDMIS::SYSTEM | | Fri Apr 15 1988 08:25 | 37 |
|
RE: .10
I just re-read my reply in .10, just wanted to explain a bit more...
the house is in excellent shape. when I mentioned things we did
not like it was referring to other homes we saw... after reading
my reply it sounded like the house we are buying had the things
we did not like, not the case. The house as it now stands needs
no work, ie; paint, appliances, walls etc.. all in excellent condition.
Again, alot of good points have been made, sounds like alot of
folks tend to agree that Kitchens/baths are one of the better
investments or areas to improve on, will bear this in mind when
after we move in and look at things to improve on.
Although in our case, the very 1st item will be to get that deck
built. My house that I sold I had just last summer built a deck
on... sigh, now here we go and sell it... good point to build for
your enjoyment and build it earlier on. Sort of frustrating to
think that I put the work into the deck, and only used it for 2
months or so, but I guess it did help in selling the place, it sold
in 2 days at a decent price.
All in all, I sort of enjoy doing things in and out of the house...
still have much to learn though and really do appreciate the feedback
and comments that have been generated throughout this note (and
the file itself, lots of great info.)
Any other items folks liked or dis-liked are appreciated.
Take care,
Perry F.
----------
|
297.48 | What I look for. | VIDEO::WATERHOUSE | perfection's the direction | Fri Apr 15 1988 09:48 | 9 |
| What I look for, in addition to what is in the replies so far, are:
1. Maintainance saving features: vinyl siding, tilt in windows
for cleaning, etc.
2. Since I own a split, I would look for additional storage
space, for both 'heavy' things like lawnmowers, snowblowers
and 'light' things like clothes, books, linens, etc.
Steve
|
297.49 | Consider traditional in remodelling | CYGNUS::VHAMBURGER | Common Sense....isn't | Fri Apr 15 1988 10:15 | 24 |
|
When I was redoing my kitchen about 9+ years ago, the cabinetmaker who
was selling me the cabinets was very adamant about not selling me cabinets
that didn't fit the existing house. My house was very traditional in design
and my wife was interested in the natural finish light cabinets to maek the
kitchen brighter, but he insisted that in 10 years we would think of the
kitchen as dated by the cabinets and would be unhappy. Instead, we bought
oak cabs with a dark pecan finish and have loved them ever since. At first
it seemed presumptious of the guy to not want to sell us what we wanted,
but in retrospect, I am very happy he did.
I think any of the trendy, stylish type of additions and remodels are
going to be dated in a few years, such as the strange window shapes now
being used in every new home, etc. Not that some homes look bad with them,
but it seems every home has round top windows, or triangular ones, and they
don't always fit. You might want to consider the traditional styles for
your house and stick to that so the next owner doesn't look at it and say
"Oh, he obviously added that in mar-apr '88 becasue that is when those were
in style...."
Just my opinion....nobody asked.......
Vic
|
297.50 | OVER improve | LDP::BURKHART | | Fri Apr 15 1988 10:33 | 13 |
| One comment on OVER improvement; 3 years ago when before we
bought our new house we were debating which course of action to
take. New addition or new house? The house we were living in was
small, (2 bedroom, 1 bath) on a small lot, (50 x 100). The lot next
door to us was vacant and we were considering buying that lot and
putting on an addition. The addition would include 2 car garage
with masterbedroom suit w/ full bath above. This addition would
have brought the house up to 3 bedroom 2 bath w 2 car garage on
a 100 x 100 lot. We estimated cost with buying the lot and addition
at about 40-50k add to that the original price of the house of 42k
brings a total investment of 80-90k. Now keep in mind the time frame
here (1985) and the area (Marlboro Ma). Now with this little addition
we would have had one of the best houses on the street. Now we opted
|
297.51 | set a dollar limit | ARCHER::FOX | | Fri Apr 15 1988 14:35 | 19 |
|
RE .8
> re: .7 If you need it and want it, payback is second.
I don't think you can *always* disregard payback. Of course,
it's often impossible to define "need" when making improvements
to a house!
In the case of adding a garage or small mudroom, it's definately
something I want, but I am concerned it will outprice my home
in the neighborhood. Then again, maybe everybody else will add on
and bring up the whole place!
Reply 19 made a good point, but there is much more cash involved
there.
Maybe a better rule of thumb is:
If you want it, but may or may not need it, and it costs under $5000,
payback is second.
John
|
297.52 | The Yuppie's Curse | HPSVAX::SHURSKY | | Fri Apr 15 1988 16:41 | 67 |
| That is a point John. I meant "need" as in "required for comfortable
enjoyment of the home". Everyone has their own definition of "need".
For example; I really "need" to win Megabucks, but I am afraid I
will be able to live without winnning. {;-)
An awful lot of people are adding on up North Andover way. North
Andover has really gone upscale. As the older, smaller ranches
and capes are bought by young families trying to get into a nice
area, and as they can afford it they are adding rooms, garages,
etc. In this case there is no question they will get their money
back, perhaps severalfold. There are still some two bedroom ranches
and small capes for $165K or so. If I were not already established
I might take a "buy in and improve" approach. There is one stretch
of Salem street where every other house is under improvement. There
are about 6 or more houses in less than 1/2 mile that are under
improvement or have been improved in the last year.
Right now my improvements include mostly things to bring the house
up to average:
Already done since purchase:
1) Blacktop driveway (not DIY)
2) Lawn (not DIY - lots of trucks and manpower for 375
cu yds of loam, rake and seed for 25000 sq ft)
3) Lawn sprinkler system (DIY - great toy, nothing like
watching it with a brew in hand)
4) Brick walk (DIY - just ask my back)
5) Stone wall(s) - some done, some not yet (DIY - ask my
poor mashed fingers)
6) Installed Ceiling fan (DIY against all odds)
7) Four light poles/fixtures down driveway (DIY)
8) Underground piping into which gutters will drain
(DIY - ask my back)
Still need/want:
1) Gutters (DIY)
2) Foundation plantings and landscaping (DIY - soon
I hope) Includes the low rock wall I have mentioned.
3) Other landscaping in fits as the urge takes me (DIY)
4) Further rock walls, especially the second pillar
at the end of the driveway. (DIY - more mashed fingers
scheduled for this summer)
WOW! I am getting there! I never really summarized any of this
before. I can almost see the end of the major projects (money
allowing)!
This is great! Then I can sell this house and start all over!
This is the Yuppie's Curse. It is like the guy (forgot his name)
in Greek Mythology who spends eternity rolling a boulder up a
mountain only to have it roll back each time he reaches the top.
(and this twit never gets to Miller time either! {;-)
Stan
|
297.53 | Fireplace a profitable improvement | CSCMA::KNORR | Singing those field test blues ... | Tue Apr 19 1988 12:44 | 0 |
297.54 | Not to be confused with Tantalus | LYCEUM::CURTIS | Christos voskrese iz mertvych! | Tue Apr 19 1988 14:08 | 5 |
| .21:
Sisyphus.
Dick
|
297.55 | Some numbers | HPSTEK::EKOKERNAK | | Wed Apr 20 1988 10:27 | 32 |
| I found the following in this weekend's newspaper, extracted from
"Remodeling Contractor" magazine:
Project Avg. cost Increase to Home Value Increase/cost
Add fireplace $3,250 $4,000 123%
Add bathroom $7,300 $8,000 110%
New siding $6,000 $6,000 100%
Greenhouse $13,500 $12,000 89%
Kitchen remodel $18,000 $16,000 89%
Insulation $1,200 $1,000 83%
Roofing $3,400 $2,700 80%
Bathroom remodel $6,200 $4,650 75%
Skylights $2,800 $2,100 75%
Wood deck $4,800 $3,500 73%
Windows/doors $9,750 $7,000 72%
Room addition $28,000 $20,000 71%
Swimming pool $19,000 $6,100 32%
|
297.56 | Fireplace #1 Home Improvement | CSCMA::KNORR | Singing those field test blues ... | Wed Apr 20 1988 11:37 | 12 |
| Our newspaper (Providence Journal) ran a series last year on the various
financial merits of home improvement. The installation of a fireplace
was the number 1 ranked item in terms of home improvement payback.
Remodeling your basement was one of the worst home improvements you can
make in terms of getting your money back.
I agree with previous noters that almost any home improvement is worthwhile
if you'll be in the home long enough to enjoy it. The definition of
"long enough" is often a source of controversy in my household. :-)
- Chris
|
297.57 | Right, DON'T finish the basement | STAR::SWIST | Jim Swist ZKO3-4/U14 381-1264 | Wed Apr 20 1988 11:52 | 33 |
| Many people are surprised that finished basements can in fact
negatively impact the value of the house. This does seem to be
borne out by everything I've read, but it's a bit surprising since
this has to be the A#1 major DIY project around. The reasons I've
seen cited include:
1) The ideas of how to configure a basement vary drastically from
person to person, much more so than upstairs where things are more
standard. If someone built bedrooms down there and the buyer wants
a large hobby activity space then there's a negative, for example.
2) Many people want an unfinished basement. They want it for storage
and work area, and don't want more space to furnish/clean/maintain.
3) 95% of basement finishing jobs are poor. Unfortunately this
gives the well-finished basement two strikes against it since the
mere term carries a negative connotation with some people.
4) The reason most finishing jobs are poor goes far beyond the use
of tacky cheap panelling and grid ceilings. Basements are in fact
very tricky to do right:
a) Humidity and water/dampness control are often overlooked
or done wrong.
b) Heating/Ventilation is tricky and is often done wrong.
c) Access/Egress/Lighting are hard to do right. How many nicely
finished basements have you seen where access was via steep,
narrow, "cellar" stairs, and/or an ugly/awkward bulkhead
door.
- Notes from an ex-pro basement finisher.
|
297.58 | depends | ARCHER::FOX | | Wed Apr 20 1988 12:59 | 9 |
| It may depend of what type of basement you have. Splits, for
example have a much more livable basement (or "lower level")
than full foundation houses.
If I were to buy a split, a finished basement would be a plus.
(finished properly, of course). The same in a cape, for instance
would not grab me as much
John
|
297.59 | | EDUC8::PHILBROOK | Chico's Daddy | Thu Apr 21 1988 10:28 | 9 |
| We're pleased that our house has a finished basement. It's a 24x40
ranch and the extra living space is handy to have. There are 3 rooms
down there....an 11x14 family room, an 18x20 playroom/laundryroom,
and a small workshop area. The only problem I have with it is that
the ceilings are finished (drywall) as opposed to a suspended ceiling.
One day we'll have to get at that plumbing and wiring - I'm dreading
that!
Mike
|
297.60 | Just citing results of (more than one) survey | STAR::SWIST | Jim Swist ZKO3-4/U14 381-1264 | Fri Apr 22 1988 10:17 | 6 |
| Re: .-1 Your basement sounds great, and I've done stuff like that
for myself.
All I'm saying is that statistically speaking, finishing a basement
will NOT add value to your house. Or at least not nearly in proportion
to what you paid for it.
|
297.61 | A (qualified) vote for fin. basement | DECEAT::GOLDSTEIN | | Mon Apr 25 1988 17:33 | 20 |
| I suspect much of the negative feeling about finished basements
is also because there may be no other 'playroom' or informal family
room as such in the house.
We had our basement finished, at a not outrageous cost, and I feel
the work was well-done. Because we have a first-floor den (a closed-in
side porch!), it is understood by all that the basement is 'kid
heaven', and that is in fact where my two boys are to be found during
indoor playtime.
My feeling is that if you have a decently finished basement, along
with even a small 'den' elsewhere in the house, and--when you show
the house for sale--it is clear, from toys, game apparatus, superhero
posters on the walls, etc., that the basement is 'kidland', it has
got to be a selling 'plus.' I of course assume that the customers
have or are planning to have kids.
As with many other features, the value of a finished basement has
to be assessed in the context of the rest of the house.
|
297.62 | My Top 7 Improvements | 57931::SMICK | Van C. Smick | Tue May 03 1988 10:29 | 32 |
|
Back to the base note:
Improvements I've done that (a) increased the appraised value and (b)
gave me pleasure are:
1. Add a deck and screened-in porch, where the porch is attached to the
family room via an atrium door thereby expanding living space.
2. Add a zero-clearance fireplace, mantle etc. which can not be
distinguished from a "real" fireplace from in the inside.
3. Add ceiling molding and chair rail to living room and dining room,
plus wallpaper in kitchen, dining room and baths.
4. Hardwood floors in dining room and family room.
5. Build a finished "rec" room, a wine cellar, a huge workshop & gardening
area, plus lots of shelves for storage in basement.
6. Add bathroom fan, an exterior-ducted fan over stove, whole house
fan, a whole-house humidifier in the FHA system, and a automatic
set-back thermostat.
7. Landscaping -- maybe too much for the neighborhood, but it makes
me feel good every time I drive into the driveway.
When we had the house appraised after doing all this, the appraiser
said that the improvements had added $25k to the inflation-adjusted
value of the house. That's about a 200% return on investment and since
I did this within the first 3 years of purchase, I figure I have 3 more
years to enjoy all the improvements before selling it.
|
297.63 | re: .31 | TALLIS::DEROSA | I := not(number) | Tue May 03 1988 14:00 | 19 |
| > < Note 2216.31 by 57931::SMICK "Van C. Smick" >
> -< My Top 7 Improvements >-
>
>
>Improvements I've done that (a) increased the appraised value and (b)
>gave me pleasure are:
> .
> .
> .
>When we had the house appraised after doing all this, the appraiser
>said that the improvements had added $25k to the inflation-adjusted
>value of the house. That's about a 200% return on investment [...]
You did all that for $8,333???
jdr
|
297.64 | Really? | VIDEO::FINGERHUT | | Tue May 03 1988 14:06 | 9 |
| > >When we had the house appraised after doing all this, the appraiser
>>said that the improvements had added $25k to the inflation-adjusted
>>value of the house. That's about a 200% return on investment [...]
> You did all that for $8,333???
You did all that for $12,500???
|
297.65 | Compounded daily at 2.5% adjusted....? | AKOV68::CRAMER | | Tue May 03 1988 17:32 | 14 |
| re: .32 & .33
If I invest $100 and get back $200 that is a 100% return.
If I invest $100 and get back $300 that is a 200% return.
If I invest $100 and get back $100 I break even.
Therefore,
I + 2I = $25k
3I = $25k
I = $8333, no?
Alan
|
297.66 | I'm not a business major, but I think this is right | STAR::BECK | Paul Beck | DECnet-VAX | Tue May 03 1988 18:40 | 8 |
| If you invest $100 and get back $100, you break even. This is
a 100% ROI (return on investment) because 100% of what you INVESTed
was RETURNed.
If you invest $100 and get back $200, you have a 200% ROI, because
double your investment was returned.
Get it?
|
297.67 | It's the percentage returned | VIDEO::FINGERHUT | | Tue May 03 1988 22:37 | 9 |
| > If you invest $100 and get back $100, you break even. This is
> a 100% ROI.
Right. I was going by the way it's figured in the latest
Practical Homeowner which gives a lot of examples.
BTW the best return on investment is to paint the exterior of your
house, DIY. You get about 1500% return on investment.
|
297.68 | Point is Focus on Resale Value! | 57931::SMICK | Van C. Smick | Wed May 04 1988 08:50 | 16 |
| RE: .32-.36
The point of my comment was not the ROI, but that I made improvements that
give me pleasure and increased the value of my house. Making improvements
without considering the impact on resale value is short-sighted, in my opinion.
The basenote asked what we had done to make our homes worth more as well
as more appealing and I thought adding the $ would be helpful.
As for the numbers, I spent a bit less than $12k on the improvements listed in
2216.31 and the appraiser said that those improvements had added $25k to the
value of the house. That is a 200% return on investment as it is typically
defined. If you prefer to look at percentage returned then I guess that's 100%.
VCS
|
297.69 | How's this for almost no help... | CLT::TALCOTT | | Wed May 04 1988 11:19 | 10 |
| Somebody, somewhere, once up on a time, wrote a book [Big help or
what, eh? :-) ] that if I remember correctly gave a state-by-state
breakdown on what the biggest returns on money spent for improvements
were. I remember looking through it at a New England bookstore about
6 years ago. After all, California folk usually don't care much
about basements and not many Alaskans get excited about outdoor
swimming pools. It was a rather detailed book. Now if I could only
remember the title....
Trace
|
297.70 | Micromanagement of home improvment | TALLIS::DEROSA | I := not(number) | Wed May 04 1988 13:48 | 9 |
| re: .38 and others...
I think you can drive yourself nuts worrying about what modifications
will return how much to you when you sell your house. Far better
to keep away from the couple of real bad returns (e.g., swimming
pool, air-conditioned doghouse) and just concentrate on making your
house comfortable.
My 2 cents.
|
297.71 | my 2 cents | CHOVAX::GILSON | | Thu May 05 1988 15:01 | 28 |
| I've been reading this note with interest as a former real estate
sales person. So much depends on the neighborhood. If you over-
improve for the cost of homes around you, the return will be much
less than if you upgrade a marginal house in a good neighborhood.
I also agree that a lot has to do with geographic area. Colonial
embelishments (chair rails, ceiling molding, etc.) would not help much
sell a home in an area whose homes were primarily contemporary or
mission style.
For what it's worth, here's a list of what we recommended to clients
in order of ascending cost:
Paint the front door.
Install shrubbery.
Paint interior rooms.
Paint the exterior (DIY).
Repair the front porch.
Update the bathroom.
Update the kitchen.
Aluminum or vinyl siding.
If you chose to wallpaper, please do it in a neutral print. We
once bought a house that had been recently papered in avacado and
gold which looked billious with our red and blue print sofa. I
felt bad about stripping it off but it had to be done!
Peg
|
297.72 | Can you say: "YUK!!"? | FSLENG::LEVESQUE | SET/HINDSIGHT = 20/20 | Thu May 05 1988 16:01 | 7 |
| RE: .40
OK, I have to admit it...I had to look up "billious" in my American
Heritage. Actually, I found "b-i-l-i-o-u-s". This has got to be
real estate euphemistic jargon. But I got the point...finally.
Ted
|
297.73 | FIREPLACES! | UCOUNT::BAILEY | Corporate Sleuth | Fri Jun 24 1988 15:16 | 50 |
| As someone looking for my first house (gulp!) even as we speak,
and also being poor so some of the things I've seen classify as
wonderful examples of BAD examples, let me add this...
Do what YOU like (it is, still, YOUR house, after all) but if you
plan to resell later, try to restrain any questionable creative
urges. For example, plaid basement/playroom carpeting. For example
fussy mediterranean style banisters in a cape. For example, five
different designs/color combinations of wallpaper on one floor of
a house (different rooms nothwithstanding, too busy). As you choose
what goes with your furnishings and taste, think about a friend
whose taste is radically different. Could they move in and be at
least not-uncomfortable for a while? If not, re-think your choices.
Additionally, in recent looking around I DIDN'T like built-in bars,
strange use of materials (ie:polyurethaned pressboard for flooring),
cheapo paneling, plastic light fixtures, tiny little basement rooms,
z-brick backups for wood stoves, or anything that looked cheap.
I did like skylights, light colors, plain/simple colors of flooring,
refinished hardwood floors which carpeting had once covered up,
simplicity, cleanness, easy-maintenance, not too many builtins.
A laundry chute would be nice but wouldn't make a bit of difference
in a buying decision. Ugly features or strongly designed ones that
don't match my taste would, especially since I won't be able to
afford redecorating for a while. (One house had expensive hand
painted ceramic tile on the bathroom floor -- I hated it! But I
couldn't rip it up, so that house is off the list.)
Personally, I'm most interested in floorplan (which you wouldn't
want to change, once in place) and the overall ambience of the place
as you approach ("curb appeal"?) (assuming structural factors and
so on are ok.) One thing I think makes a place look more "finished"
and appealing is the appearance of the foundation or crawlspace.
A lot of people could enclose crawlspaces with lattice and plant
a bush or two and make a huge difference. I'm not much for lawns,
so "natural look" yards with mulch and appropriate plantings please
me (low maintenance, you know) but they have to be done nicely.
This brings up a question. My real estate agent has pointed out,
as have others in this file, that "plain, boring, ordinary" houses
sell the best...the more average the better. Are we a nation of
dullards?! Are we afraid of the unfamiliar?! Have we no individuality?!
Realizing that money is a factor in not seeking the extraordinary,
why doe bland sell? (Just wondering!)
As for your improvements, good luck!
Sherry
|
297.74 | | HPSMEG::LUKOWSKI | I lost my A$$ in the '87 CRASH! | Fri Jun 24 1988 17:31 | 26 |
| >> This brings up a question. My real estate agent has pointed out,
>> as have others in this file, that "plain, boring, ordinary" houses
>> sell the best...the more average the better. Are we a nation of
>> dullards?! Are we afraid of the unfamiliar?! Have we no individuality?!
>> Realizing that money is a factor in not seeking the extraordinary,
>> why doe bland sell? (Just wondering!)
I have an opinion...just like everyone else. :^) I never thought
of us as being a nation of 'dullards' as you put it but some people's
taste, or lack of, can be amazing. At least with 'bland', you can
put up with it for a while. Where something is customized, I think
people tend not to want to change a lot of things if they are looking
to buy and would more than likely consider the 'custom work' to be put
on a list of things to change. Kinda like buying a handyman's
special. There are always more projects than you think there will be.
When you know they will stare at you every day, it makes it worse.
As far as individuality is concerned, it seems to me that buying
something 'bland' allows you to be more 'individual' in the work you
put into the house...or at least think you will put into the house.
Especially when you won't feel guilty about ripping something out that
someone else considered a 'masterpiece'. As someone in this file
said (sorry, I can't remember the exact quote or author), it's
customizing your house that makes it a home. I agree with this,
even if I did get it wrong. :^)
-Jim
|
297.75 | Bland isn't beautiful, but isn't ugly either | RGB::SEILER | Larry Seiler | Fri Jun 24 1988 22:43 | 23 |
| re .42:
If "sell the best" means "sell the fastest", I'm sure your real estate
agent is right. A bland house is like cafeteria food - maybe not many
people like it a lot, but lots of people can eat it and feel reasonably
satisfied. So with lots of potential buyers, just lower the price on
the bland house and it definately will sell.
Enjoy,
Larry
PS: We looked at lots of houses and finally found a non-standard
house in which nearly all the non-standard features are things we like.
We are planning to stay a long time, so all our improvements will be for
*us*, not for the next owners. After we've enjoyed them a long time,
we can treat them as writeoffs when trying to sell. Of course, it
still pays to keep the house fittings as "general purpose" as possible --
our own needs and desires will change with time.
PPS: Yes, floorplan is most important. Built-in bars placed in
"family rooms" that are separate from the rest of the house are
presumably a plus for people who like (that kind of) partying.
But we sure didn't want one.
|
297.76 | | BINKLY::WINSTON | Jeff Winston (Hudson, MA) | Sat Jun 25 1988 00:00 | 18 |
| A so-called 'bland' house can have a decided attraction to a buyer...
Given two otherwise equivalent houses, one 'bland' and one very
meticulously and completely done in a particular style (type of
wallpapering, color scheme, etc), I rather buy the bland house and do
it over my way, then have to buy the fancy house and then strip it and
redo it. Especially as the fancy house may be priced at a premium
(owners are usually proud of their redecorating).
I remember looking at a top-priced condo once that had premium
carpeting, a recent paint job, and was immaculate. Worth top dollar,
you say? The entire color scheme was orange owls. Orange carpets, a
huge orange-tinted landscape mural pasted to the master bedroom wall,
orange-owl wallpaper. The realtor couldn't convince her that this
decor wasn't a plus.
Now, if she found a buyer with similiar taste. Great. But, a bland
color scheme increases your chances of compatibility with the buyer.
/j
|
297.77 | | PSTJTT::TABER | Touch-sensitive software engineering | Mon Jun 27 1988 11:31 | 15 |
| When I bought my last house, some of the rooms were of rather pronounced
colors. It made me shiver. But I bought the place and painted
everything off-white. When I sold the house, the buyers came through and
were revolted that all the rooms were painted off-white. Now that's
about as bland as you can get, but they didn't like it. I visited them
after they had moved in; they had painted the walls a kind of
flesh-tone. It was my turn to be revolted.
NOTHING...absolutely nothing you do will meet the desires of the next
people who move in. So relax. Make yourself happy. No matter what
rugs you choose, no matter what paint you use, the people will be
entering a "Why did they EVER do that?" note on your house. It's not
worth it (to me) to get an extra $1,000 on the sale of the house, if I
am not happy to wake up there in the morning.
>>>==>PStJTT
|
297.78 | | CRAIG::YANKES | | Mon Jun 27 1988 12:20 | 13 |
|
Re: .46
...all of which makes me wonder why we all play this silly game
of painting and possibly replacing the carpets to make a house more
presentable when its put on the market? Personally, I'd rather knock
off $X from the selling price (or give it to the buyer at closing) and
let them pick what *they* want rather than me spending $X guessing
and, quite probably, getting it wrong anyway!
Ah, the silly games in real estate.
-craig
|
297.79 | It's not easy... | FSLENG::LEVESQUE | use whatever talent you have | Mon Jun 27 1988 12:27 | 38 |
| We're in the process of buying (building) our second home. I can
sympathize with those people who just can't seem to find the "right"
house.
On our first house, we found nice lots, awful maintenance/decor
on/in the house (red striped velvet wallpaper, orange carpets, old
and dated wall tiles, etc.); or we found nicely decorated houses
with pitiful yards, (drainage easement in side yard, odd lot
dimensions, house located at bottom of hill, etc.)
When we build our first house, we included a fireplace in the living
room. We've used it 7 times in 8 years. We also have a wood/coal
burning stove in the lower level of our split. In the new house,
no fireplace (very ineffecient and takes up a lot of wall space)
and no woodstove (messy, smelly, lots of work, etc., although given
MY preference, I would have had one...spousal unit rejected).
We've come across the same arguments that most people have in looking
for houses...it's difficult to spend money on something that you
just can't stand and will eventually rip out. Our current house
was on the market for 2 weeks before we got/accepted an offer.
I would say it was "tastefully decorated" (autumn wheat walls,
panelling, wallpaper in bedrooms, earth-tone carpeting, etc.), was
priced fairly, has a nice yarded in a wooded area, and is on a
cul-de-sac. All those things were/are important to us and will
be incorporated into our new house.
I guess if you look at a house and can reconcile yourself to the
major items (structural, location, floor plan, lot, etc.) and can
easily overcome the "cosmetic" items (wall paint, carpet, lino,
etc.) you can eventually come to terms with accepting the house.
Everything won't be done right away, but you can work on a house
forever. I spent 6 hours yesterday (a beautiful day) polyurethaning
the final "project" in our house which I agreed to do as a contengency
of the sale. Oh, well...we were getting to a point where is was
almost time to start over again. At least I'll start on a new house.
Ted
|
297.80 | | TOKLAS::FELDMAN | PDS, our next success | Mon Jun 27 1988 13:28 | 10 |
| Re: .47
There's a difference between repainting and recarpeting to cover
avant-garde decor and doing it to fix peeling paint or worn carpeting.
I believe that most people can pass over differences in taste, as
long as there isn't too much work involved. But when you see peeling
paint, you start to wonder about the other maintenance items that
have been neglected.
Gary
|
297.81 | Neat and clean | HPSTEK::EKOKERNAK | | Mon Jun 27 1988 14:30 | 23 |
| I'm helping my boyfriend fix up his house to sell. What he is doing
is this:
The outside needs paint. Solution: One coat only of half decent
paint. The new owners will not like the color anyway, and this
will get them through the first couple of years.
The living room, hallway and upstairs paper is old, dingy (from
the woodstove) and partially peeled by a parrot who used to live
there. Solution: Strip the wallpaper and meticulously wash and
patch the beautiful plaster walls, because they won't like the paint
or the paper we would put up anyway.
The carpet was commercial, but has seen it's share of traffic.
Solution: tear it up, refinish the hardwood floors, then just keep
decent (but not fancy) throw rugs where necessary, because the new
owners will either want to show off the hardwood, or they'll put
down their own carpet anyway.
I'd say do as little as you practically can to get it to show well.
And if you're lucky you've got plaster and hardwood to help you!
Elaine
|
297.82 | $.02 | BINKLY::WINSTON | Jeff Winston (Hudson, MA) | Mon Jun 27 1988 18:56 | 27 |
| > The outside needs paint. Solution: One coat only of half decent
> paint. The new owners will not like the color anyway, and this
> will get them through the first couple of years.
I would consider knocking the cost of this off the house, you may send
the intended message that you do things in a half-vast way.
> The living room, hallway and upstairs paper is old, dingy (from
> the woodstove) and partially peeled by a parrot who used to live
> there. Solution: Strip the wallpaper and meticulously wash and
> patch the beautiful plaster walls, because they won't like the paint
> or the paper we would put up anyway.
good - gives them a blank, and clearly hi-quality canvas
> The carpet was commercial, but has seen it's share of traffic.
> Solution: tear it up, refinish the hardwood floors, then just keep
> decent (but not fancy) throw rugs where necessary, because the new
> owners will either want to show off the hardwood, or they'll put
> down their own carpet anyway.
it may be sufficient to get the floors to where they <could> be
refinished - as the owners may carpet, and may FEEL they are paying
for hardwoord floors they don't want
|
297.83 | Neat, clean and lazy | HPSTEK::EKOKERNAK | | Tue Jun 28 1988 13:59 | 29 |
| > < Note 2216.51 by BINKLY::WINSTON "Jeff Winston (Hudson, MA)" >
> -< $.02 >-
>
>> The outside needs paint. Solution: One coat only of half decent
>> paint. The new owners will not like the color anyway, and this
>> will get them through the first couple of years.
>
>I would consider knocking the cost of this off the house, you may send
>the intended message that you do things in a half-vast way.
You make a good point, but a house with faded, peeling paint does
not have very good "curb appeal". We thought that if someone nibbles
before the painting gets done, we could let them pick the paint
and the color and negotiate the price.
Maybe we should leave this as a negotiating point, though.
> it may be sufficient to get the floors to where they <could> be
> refinished - as the owners may carpet, and may FEEL they are paying
> for hardwoord floors they don't want
Another good point, well-taken. I'm not sure what we'll find under
the carpet. I guess if I were buying I'd be glad to know I could
refinish if I wanted to, but wouldn't have to if I wanted to carpet.
|
297.84 | Paint inside but bland | 28922::B_RAMSEY | Bruce Ramsey | Mon Dec 12 1988 18:15 | 31 |
| As mentioned earlier, I too had a flyer from a real estate office at
one time that listed 20 home improvement projects and the return
on investment. They listed interior painting/wallpapering as returning
100 to 105% of the investment. All other jobs returned less than
the improvment cost. A swimming pool was lowest at about 42%
of cost. They actually listed bathroom and kitchen do-overs as
4 different jobs. They felt a quality make over different from
a makeover that just updated everything average qualtity.
They went into the idea that decks and patios generally returned more
of investment in areas of the country where they could be used more
of the year (south and southwest vs. north). They also recommended
not overimproving the house for the neighborhood.
In my case I bought the dreaded handyman special. I had to replace the
entire plumbing for the entire house, all vent pipes for the furnace
and water heater, attic steps, upgrade the electric from 60 to 200 amp,
insulate the attic, and millions of things I dont want to think about.
Since I used my sweat, I might come out ahead. THe plumber wanted
$1100 to take out the iron pipes and replace with copper. The material
cost me $400. A repair person wanted $200 to replace the vent pipes
for the furnance and water heater, cost $70 material. Both of
these things had to be done in order to have water on demand and
to remove fire hazards/comply to code.
Make improvements that will make you happy but always keep in mind
resale.
bruce
|
297.85 | Cost of Improvements increase House Value? | CSCMA::M_ELDRIDGE | | Wed Jan 11 1989 13:09 | 21 |
| Many notes here have mentioned percentages of expected return on
sale for any improvements. In the last reply, it listed only
interior wallpaper/paint as returning 100% of the investment.
We've recently done some work on a house, could I get a few
guesses at expected return on investement? Nobody will be held
to an 'offer', but for personal reasons, we need a better
perspective.
It's a three family house in Rhode Island. Each floor is a seperate
apartment. The top two apartments we put our own sweat into to
fix up, but had the basement done for us.
We gutted the basement ourselves and paid $33,000 to have it completely
done over. New Kitchen, bathroom, living room, etc... We would
expect that by renting this apartment, we can cover the money borrowed
to do the improvements. But if the house were sold, how much of
that $33,000 could we expect to see added to the value of the house?
I know, "insufficient data" to make a guess! Make a guess anyways,
would we expect to see %150 returned? %20? %80?????
|
297.86 | My guess is 112.46% +/- 50% 8^) | MISFIT::DEEP | Bring out yer dead...(clang!) | Wed Jan 11 1989 13:20 | 0 |
297.87 | a guess, just a guess | NSSG::ALFORD | another fine mess.... | Wed Jan 11 1989 14:08 | 7 |
| Well, two of the things you mentioned...kitchen and bath,...
tend to return almost 100% IFFFF you don't overdo it and
spend 20K on custom cabinets which the new owner may not
like anyway...
Assuming normal fixtures, neutral colors, reasonable quality,
and good workmanship, I'd guess 80% in total return.
|
297.88 | Your mileage may vary (with a 3-family) | REGENT::MERSEREAU | | Wed Jan 11 1989 15:01 | 11 |
|
3-family homes tend to be looked at more as an investment than
single family homes, so I would say the increase in value would
be somewhat proportional to the increase in rent it will bring.
Renters may or may not be impressed with the same things buyers
are.
Of course, these things also vary with the market, so it all
depends on when you sell (whether buyers are looking for positive
cash flow, zero cash flow, etc).
|
297.89 | The three L's of real estate | BEING::WEISS | Trade freedom for security-lose both | Thu Jan 12 1989 08:57 | 10 |
|
Location, location, and location.
It depends very much on the neighborhood where the house is. If you bought the
house for a price that was low for the neighborhood, since it was somewhat
rundown, then you will likely be able to make money on the deal. If the house
was already in the top price bracket for the neighborhood, then you probably
won't get a whole lot back on it.
Paul
|
297.90 | Home budget spreadsheet? | UNXA::LEONARD | I'm older, Budweiser now... | Wed Jan 03 1990 17:53 | 12 |
| I looked, but did not find this topic anywhere.
Does anyone have a good home budget spreadsheet around? DECalc
preferably, but anything else that may be convertable would also
be of interest. Before I go and do one up, I thought I'd ask here.
I looked in both the DECALC and (DECALC)PLUS notes files plus a
few other places but didn't see anything.
How about it?
Dave
|
297.91 | What? | ARGUS::RICHARD | | Thu Jan 04 1990 10:54 | 7 |
| I'm not sure I understand what you are asking. Do you mean a pre-made
spreadsheet (home budget boilerplate) that will work on DECALC and
others such as Lotus 123 or MSExcel? There might be something in
a freeware database, but most just make up their own and customize
it for their own needs.
|
297.92 | Yep, looking for a template | UNXA::LEONARD | I'm older, Budweiser now... | Thu Jan 04 1990 12:55 | 8 |
| Yep, home budget boilerplate is exactly what I was inquiring about.
Certainly not that hard to make one up...
It would be nice to have an actual v.s. budget capability to use
to track expenses. I'm sure there are other good ideas as well.
Dave
|
297.93 | Pointer in Rainbow conference using Lotus | MNATUR::LISTON | | Fri Jan 05 1990 12:35 | 6 |
|
I believe Dave Cox (CSS::DCOX) created such a spreadsheet using
Lotus. It's referenced somewhere in the Rainbow conference but you'd
probably have quicker response by sending him mail.
Kevin
|
297.6 | Estimate for rewiring house | GEMVAX::RICE | | Wed Jul 18 1990 13:47 | 18 |
| Does anyone have a guesstimate on rewiring an entire house? About the
only thing added in last 10 years was new service box and some of the
cellar wiring. Rest is probably from at least 1920's (porcelain
insulators, etc. House is a small eight room 1890's era 2-story.
Would it be reasonable to split this into a 2-stage project, re-wiring
the first floor now, since the second floor will not be used. By the
way, the house is being lived in, but current occupant seemed reluctant
to change anything her parents had done to house!
I realize I will have to call an electrician at some point, since this
is too big a job to handle within a reasonable amount of time DIY, but
this is just in the thinking-about stage right now.
Thanks
Joseph
|
297.7 | What's the rush, it works now, right? | KAYAK::GROSSO | | Wed Jul 18 1990 15:31 | 10 |
| re: .6 Can you get between the attic joists and likewise there isn't a
ceiling in the basement? I've done two ~1902 homes while living in them
and if I had to guess how long it took, I'd go around the house and count
up all the light fixtures and each outlet and say it took that many evenings.
Some where short evenings, others were long. But in both cases I started
from a new service entry and could easily lift the attic floor boards and
work down, and easily run wires up from the basement. An accurate floor
plan and a map of the current circuitry were a big help.
-Bob
|
297.8 | But I don't feel real comfortable.. | GEMVAX::RICE | | Wed Jul 18 1990 15:40 | 13 |
|
Just to clarify the situation - I will not be living there, and it is
20 miles from home. The occupant is in a nursing home at the moment,
and when (if) she returns, will be restricted to the first floor. That
is why second floor can be done piecemeal, but I would like other work
done all at once, since there will be lots of cosmetic work to be done
as well. Attic is not a walk up, and it was too hot this week to check
it out anyway. Second floor bedrooms have wooden floors, but not first
class, so I won't be upset at breaking through them if necessary. There
is no ceiling in basement.
Joseph
|
297.9 | first floor outlets should be feasible | RGB::SEILER | Larry Seiler | Fri Jul 20 1990 10:51 | 21 |
| My impression is that you *don't* want to ask an electrician to snake
wires in walls -- that job can either be done quickly and badly, or
slowly and very expensively, if you are paying an electrician by the hour.
However, it sounds like the ground floor outlets won't be a big problem,
since they are probably all exposed runs in the basement. It would be
a good idea for you to check it out, though. For that matter, I suppose
that if you were to supply the electrician with a map of where all the
wires go, you'd get a better price.
I don't know how feasible it will be to fix the ceiling lights on the
ground floor. You may have to be content with just fixing the outlets.
You may be able to replace the wires up to the switches, but the wires
from the switches up to the ceiling lights could be really tough without
breaking open walls and ceilings.
I assume that you have a good reason to replace the wiring -- e.g. because
you want to run more current through it than would be safe.
Enjoy,
Larry
|
297.10 | | MFGMEM::S_JOHNSON | Drive the Big Rig | Wed Aug 08 1990 17:57 | 17 |
| >I don't know how feasible it will be to fix the ceiling lights on the
>ground floor. You may have to be content with just fixing the outlets.
>You may be able to replace the wires up to the switches, but the wires
>from the switches up to the ceiling lights could be really tough without
>breaking open walls and ceilings.
If you can, open up the 2nd story wood floors above the 1st floor ceiling
lights and run the new romex. I did this with one room in our 1896 house.
It took some work. Then re-nail them back down. Depends what your plans are
for those 2nd story floors. We plan to carpet, so it didn't matter if we
did some minor damage to the floors while opening them up.
There is only one other run of Knob and tube left in the house, in the 3 way
front hall stairway circuit. That only feeds one bulb, so I won't bother
changing it out.
Steve
|
297.29 | What improvements ad value? | GLDOA::KATZ | Follow your conscience | Wed Mar 11 1992 18:56 | 15 |
| I am just about to move into a 3 bdrm. ranch home that is almost
20 years old. Both the kitchen and bathroom have been
remodeled. The basement is 3/4 finished with a shower
and toilet in it. The kitchen also has a wood stove but
there is no fireplace. Carpeting covers hardwood floors.
I also have a 2 car attatched garage. I know I need to
improve insulation in the roof and I have some general painting
to do immediately.
What other improvements can I make to this house that will
add real value when I go to sell it in 5-7 years?
Thanks.
-Jim-
|
297.30 | A 2 car garage, I'm green with envy! | KEPNUT::CORRIGAN | If it wasn't for bad luck,... | Thu Mar 12 1992 06:58 | 28 |
|
First, congrats and good luck in your new home. I also purchased a
3 bedroom ranch about 8? (wow time goes fast) years ago with the
intention of only staying about 5 years. Coincidently I've done all
the same exact improvements you write about except the 2 car garage
and the kitchen remodel. I'm in the planning stages of the kitchen
remodel, will be starting the destruction this spring. I don't have
a garage :-(
As far as value added and % return, the kitchen and bathroom give
the most return for remodeling dollars invested followed by adding
a second bathroom. After that opinion varies but your best return
seems to come from family rooms/finished bathrooms, garages, extra
bedrooms, outside decks/three season porches, new windows, and
landscaping.
Keep in mind the value of housing in your immediate area. You
obviously don't want to create a spralling $500,000 ranch in an
area of starter homes.
Some of my neighbors have added a second floors to their ranches
which have cost in the area of $40,000. I'm sure they'll get good
return on their investment.
Keep in mind that curb appeal, appearance of your home from the
street, plays a big part in the sale of a house. Replace/prune
overgrown shrubs and trees that have possibly overtaken the
property. Plant perennial borders etc to add color to the landscape.
Swimming pools are great if your into it but unfortunately do not
return on dollars invested.
Have fun,
Bob
|