Conference 7.286::home_work

    You hit it right on the head.   What you need is to go to Sears, and
    get a parts list for one of the garage door openers.   The transmitter
    and receivers are "parts department" pieces.   The switch is a circuit
    board (that sits in the garage door opener "head") that you should be
    able to build into a light control circuit (it's basically a relay with
    a few jelly-beans around it.)   Sounds like fun... 

Better yet, go to the vendor directly.  Sears overhead for piece prices
is obscene.

You can get the individual peices for Sears garage door recievers (to
match their transmitters) etc from Chamberlin Consumer products, Tuscon, AZ.

pj

    A friend of mine uses an infra-red beam switch for outside lites.
    Basically, you break the beam (walk/drive in front of it) and presto
    - the lites come on.
    
    I think he got it from Radio Shack for $60 or so.
    
    -Phil

    
    	Theres a heat sensing outdoor light kit from HEATHKIT that
    is available. It works by sensing the heat off of varmits or
    people and will go on when sensed. It also has a sensitivity
    switch to crank so you can prevent it from going off for
    raccoons but still go on for people. And also a timer for
    duration of light. If you want to build it its available.
    Heathkit is at Wellesly and also I believe Peabody.(not
    sure about peabody)
    
    					al
    

    Some devices offered for sale recently (Plus other Jury rig ideas)
    
    1) Audible light switch (make a noise, lights go on for a period
    of time: I think K-mart recent sale price of $15.00, Sears $45.00).
    
    2) If you have a Cordless phone with Pager, one could put
    the audible conrtrol near the speaker, and with a "pageing buzz"
    from the remote handset could trigger the audible switch (?).
    
    3) Check with your local hobby store for a single channel 
    receiver/transmitter plus a servo (if needed to jury rig a switch).
    
    4) I have a commercial "remote" (but not wireless) switch
    in my house, that permits tuning light on/off from several
    locations, but requires extensive wiring, andi is prone
    to damage after a long time (years ?).
    
    5) There is "wireless" commercially available remote timer/lights
    modules that can be bought (I think Radio Shack ws the source).
    
    I saw one hooked up, and it had the Master control, then you bought
    the individual control modules (cost depends on power
    to be controlled), and uses the existing AC wiring as a transmission
    medium (Modulated AC for the Radio Buffs).
    
   6) Another possibillity is simply a "remote" "mat-switch", that would
    work similiar to the "bell gong cord" found in some gas stations.
    
    7) Still yet, is a "darkness" lamp controller, mounted at the end
    of a short tube, placed so that your headlamps would permit
    it "OPPOSITE" contacts to turn on a lamp (if the opposing contacts
    are accesible).The normal diagram would show ----X---- for a switch
    to turn ON. To turn off, with complementary contacts, it would
    show ----X----|----   Where the X is normally off, and -|- is normally
    on. (of course, this lamp would be ON during bright daylight hours,
    shut OFF at dusk, then be turned on by your headlamps).
    
    Heyyy, keep us posted as to which way you go (some of us might want
    to try one, too !).
    
    bob
    

    Somerville Lumber recently advertised an infrared sensing device
    which turns your lights on automatically as you approach the house.
    A light sensor disables it during daylight hours. I haven't had
    a chance to look at it closely but at 40 bucks it might be the ideal
    solution.
    
    [RDT]

    does anyone know of a local source for the RCA line of I/R
    utility switches?  I picked up one of these switches in California
    at MACY's for about 30.00.  It works great. It covers
    a cone shape 75 feet long and almost 180 degrees wide.  ANY MOVEMENT
    OF A HEAT SOURCE (Such as your body) triggers it's 120vac
    circuit. I use it to turn my outside floodlamps on. After a
    settable period it re-cycles. Also settable to the amount of
    ambient light to ignore (so it doesn't turn ON if I come home at
    mid-day during the daylight.).
    
    
    Anyone seen this locally??
    
    Mark
    

    I got mine at Somerville Lumber and I've also seen them in Caldor.
    I think the indoor model is about $29 and the outdoor model $39.
    Well worth the investment.
    
    
    

    Are these RCA units the ones with "multiple IR eyes" that detect
    IR movement instead of presence? It seems that the simpler one IR
    eye units if used in your driveway stay lit for several hours if
    you park your warm car in front of them. 
    
    						/Glenn
    

    No, these work great! They only trigger on SHIFTs in heat source.
    In fact, if you walk towards it in EXACTLY a radial spoke from the
    eye, it wont trigger at all!  Must have multiple sense points.
    
    Mark

    Well, its been a while, and I finally found exactly what I'm looking
    for in a Radio Shack catalog.  It is a radio activated controller
    for their line of remote appliance/light control devices.
    
    The control unit plugs into any socket in the house and controls
    up to 3 remote units via signals sent on the electrical wires. 
    One of the remote unit types is a replacement for a wall light switch
    that allows control via either the controller or directly at the
    wall.  The controller responds to a little hand remote unit from
    up to 300 feet.
    
    This is an extension to their regular remote control system that
    has been around for a while.  Oh yeah, the units can be controlled
    seperately from the hand unit, so you can have several different
    devices that you can turn on individually from outside.
                                 
    Let you know more once I get it installed and see if it lives up
    to its advertising.
    
    /Dave

What you have, under the Radio Shack name, is part of the X-10 home 
control system, made by X-10.  (some of you may know it as the BSR 
X-10 system, X-10 used to be a division of BSR).  Its sold by radio
shack, by DAK, and under the X-10 name at some hardware stores. They
may a large variety of controllers/modules - more than is sold by any
one outlet. They even have a controller that runs from your commodore
64 or apple II. 2 & 3 way wall switches, telephone controller (turn on
your A/C before you head home), etc 

You can get a catalog directly from X-10, Blauvelt NY   800-526-0027 
For what they sell, DAK has the best prices on their merchandise,
though Radio Shack is close. 

Warning:  Some household devices (in my case, my Trinitron and my 
LA34) present a high load to the line, and interfere with the 
controller ranges.  The fix is to wind lamp cord (one side) around
a ferrite core to make an inductor to isolate the offending appliance
from the A/C line.  (Anyone have ideas on how to predict or measure the 
load to the line?)

I'm also told that people with 3-wire, 2-leg electrical systems need
to put a capacitor across the phases to get whole-house coverage. 

Otherwise, the system works great./j

    Re .8
    
    Thanks for the info on contacting the source.  Some of the inserts
    in the boxes mentioned devices that RS doesn't carry, and that looked
    interesting.  I installed 3 wall switch modules for my outside lights
    and a master timer control (still waiting for the RF controller
    to appear in the stores).  Real simple and fast to set up.
    
    Only problem is somewhat erratic behavior of one of the lights that
    is on a different circuit from the others.  Maybe I need that capacitor
    between phases?  Could you expand a bit on where it should be installed
    and what type and rating capacitor should be used?
    
    					Thanks,
    					Dave

    re .9, capacitor
    
    Placement: Turn off the main breaker. Loosen the screws that connect
    the black wires to two adjacent 120-v breakers, or the black and
    red wires to a 240-v breaker. Slip a capacitor lead in with each
    wire - cut the leads short and put a sleeve over exposed lead. Tighten
    down the screws, and make sure the capacitor leads are clamped.
    
    Type/size: non-electrolytic (non-polarized); .1-uf should work well on
    operating frequencies of 100-kHz or above; 600-v or better.

re .9:  I have the details written somewhere - but call the 800 number 
and ask for technical assistance - that's where I got the info.

    I have a detached garage and am considering using one of these systems
    to control the spotlight outside the garage ....and the garage door.

    I would need a module that provides momentary contact (and no voltage)
    for the garage door opener.  I've seen the Radio Shack control units
    and, as I recall, the control panel only provides for changing the
    state of the remote module (turning it on or off).  The module I am
    dreaming of would provide momentary contact for a fraction of a second
    whenever it was told to change state.  I would be pleasantly surprised
    to find that a vendor actually made such an animal.  Perhaps one of
    you hardware hackers could design one for me using one of the standard
    modules for a receiver.

    Your...PAL

    BTW:  The garage is fed from the breaker panel in the house and I'm
    	trying to avoid digging up the yard.

    re .9  The "official" way to solve the problem of getting it across
    phases is to get the box described in the following message:
    
From:	ERLANG::TLE::FRANKEL      "Jamie Frankel, ZKO2-3/N30, DTN 381-2046, (603) 881-2046"  3-NOV-1986 15:32
To:	GRIEB,ERLANG::WHALEN,ERLANG::WILKINSON,NM%RHEA::DECWRL::"[email protected]",FRANKEL     
Subj:	Leviton Signal Bridge for BSR System

I bought the Leviton Signal Bridge to repeat the carrier modulated signal from
one leg of a 120/240V home electrical system to the other.  The bridge comes as
a wall box mounted unit with two sets of two wires.  The installation
instructions specify that the unit should be connected to each 120V branch with
a dedicated 15 A circuit breaker.  I haven't installed it yet, but this does
sound like a pain.  Leviton isn't taking any chances...  I opened it up to see
if it was the simple single capacitor bridge that many people are using.
I was relieved to see that it wasn't (the signal bridge cost $47.30 at Mass Gas
and Electric -- special order)!  It has what appeared to be two identical
circuits one for each side of the electrical system.  Each had two caps, an
inductor (I think), and a tuned coil (one of the short metal boxes with a
ferrite tuning screw visible through the top) -- no active components, but
possibly better than just a cap.  There isn't much more info, but if you have
questions, shoot away.  Do you know of many more people with this system?

Jamie
    
    
    re .12
    
    You might be able to do that with one of the appliance modules,
    though you're right in that it would require some hacking.  The
    appliance modules work by having a solinoid advance a rotary switch.
    The contact of the rotary switch are in one leg of the AC wiring.
    The mod would be to have the solinoid depress a momentary switch.
    How you'd fit that in the little box is beyond me - they pack the
    thing tightly.
    
    One problem I've started having recently is that some of the modules
    (lamp/appliance and wall switch) work intermittedly; usually they'll
    go off, but not on.  It seems to depend upon how far they are from the
    controller.  I recently figured out which circuits were on which power
    leg, and found that most of my modules (and the circuits I use)
    are on one leg.  I'm considering attempting to balance the circuits
    I use between the legs, but I don't know if that will solve the
    problem.  I have had the devices work across the legs, so I skeptical
    about needing the capacitor or signal bridge.
    
    Rich

RE:.12  I have gotten the appliance modules to control low-voltage 
items (heating system, telephone, etc) by buying an AC-powered relay 
from radio shack and taking it from there.  Once you have the relay, 
building a one-shot or F/f shouldn't be too difficult -as you can now 
do it at low voltage.

RE: .13 - as I said in .10 (?), there are some appliances 
(televisions, LA34's) that actually load down the system - causing the 
intermittent problem you describe.  The only cure I have found is to 
wrap lamp cord around a ferrite core - making a big inductor - and put 
this in the line between the device and the outlet.  
Just for yuks - get the problem (can't send) to occur - and then go
around the house (between the controller and the module) and unplug
things, one at a time - you will no doubt find the offending item. 

In fact - i recently added a controller, unfortunately very close to 
my LA34, and found that one inductor doesn't give quite enough 
isolation - will have to add a second (or try putting one on the other 
side of the line).    Wouldn't you know it would be a DEC product 
screwing up the system.?

    Before you go ahead and create your own inductors for these devices,
    make sure the unit isn't defective. I installed 8 on three separate
    circuits (no leg problems) and found I had to replace 3 of the 8
    within a year before I got rid of the intermittance problem. Now,
    for the last 3 (4? 5?) years, I've had NO problems. Some of the
    units are flaky. QC is poor. Crack one open and look at the (lack
    of) quality in the assembly.... Once you get it sorted out, it works
    great. Buy some extra modules when you're setting up your system.
    
    

There may indeed be QC Problems, but the problems I had happened with 
at least 3 modules, and the inductor was a clean fix.  Gues it depends 
how 'hard' the failure is/j

    Getting back to the topic of the main note (.0) re: Lights on a
    garage, there are several things that can be done:
    
    1.  A company called LINEAR (they make transmitters/receivers for
        many different garage door openers) sell devices specifically
    	for this sort of thing.  They are located in California (I can
    	try and get the phone number if anyone wants it).  They sell
    	relays (for do-it-yourself stuff) and can suggest companies
    	that sell spotlight fixtures that work by a transmitter.
    
    2.	Sears, these days, has three-channel transmitters and a slew
    	of different stuff to control lights.  Much of this stuff can
    	be purchased as a package fairly cheap (considering what Sears
    	usually charges).  Example: a transmitter and receiver combination
    	might run you around $35.00, and the receiver could replace
    	a light switch in a wall.  Uses identical circuitry as their
    	garage door openers, so you can have a single transmitter control
    	lights and the garage door(s).  Also uses dip switches for security
    	that have over 19,000 possible code settings.
    
    I ended up doing neither of these.  I ended up getting high-pressure
    sodium fixtures that are controlled by a photoelectric eye (with
    a wall switch to force the lights off).  I figured out the price
    to run these, and found it to be around $2.00/month based on about
    12 hours per day ... this gives me cheap light whenever I'm going
    in or out.

    re .8,.9,.11 capacitor
    
    I too am having problems with my Radio Shack X10 type modules
    when talking across different branch circuits in my house.  I
    tried a .47uf @1600V cap that I had handy and it seemed to improve
    the situation temporarily.  The following day the controllers that
    were not on the same branch as the command unit again either wouldn't
    respond at all or did so intermittently.  Perhaps I'm also seeing
    changes in range due to the changing circuit loads as appliances are
    used around the house.
    
    Does anyone have the details on the recommended capacitor
    value?  Also, would someone please post the 800- number to call
    for this info.  I suppose it's X-10's hotline and Radio Schlock
    didn't pass it along in their manual.
    
    Does anyone know the rough frequency they're using to pass commands
    down the wire?
    
    Thanks,   Mike

    re .-1
    
    The capacitor I tried was a .047 ...not a .47 as stated in the reply.
    
    Mike

BSR  800 526 0027 

the recommend cap is 0.1uf

please let me know how it turns out - have been putting off doing it in 
my own place (working with the 100A main not shut off doesn't excite 
me)

*** FUSE BOX WIRING QUESTION FOLLOWS - ELECTRICAL ADVICE SOUGHT ***

I set up my X-10 system around the house.  Some 'paths' were rock 
solid, others were flakey (A could get to B, and B could get to C, but 
C couldn't get to A, etc).  I took a good look at my fuse box, and, 
realizing that alternate rows are on alternate circuits, it all became 
clear...the solid paths were on the same circuits, the flakey paths 
were cross circuits.  (By circuit, I refer to the fact that when 
3-phase 220 is brought into your house, it is broken onto 2 110V 
'circuits'.  Each circuit feeds some of your 110V lines, and the 2 
circuits are hooked together to get 220V.  This is why the rows 
alternate, so you can put a 220 breaker in 2 adjacent slots.  What's
the right term for the 'circuit'?) 

SO.....Luckily, most X-10-related breakers were on the same circuit 
already, I moved 2 from one circuit to the other, and now the system 
works like a charm.  (PS to amateurs...with the main off, moving 
breakers up/down in the same column is quite easy)

NOW, the question:

Obviously, I moved load from one circuit to the other.  How do I 
determine if my system is now out-of-balance (whatever that means)?
Is it simply that if I don't trip any breakers, I'm ok?  Do I add up 
all the rated-capacities on each circuit (after the changes, they were 
within 5A of each other), or ?????

			thanx muchly
				/j

PS: to those of you thinking "Oh, I have to put my whole house on one
circuit to really be able to use X-10 anywhere", not true.  You can 
put a lot of amps on the alternate circuit:  Like refrigerator and 
kitchen outlets, washer, dryer, room A/C, etc.  At least for me, the 
circuits that represented most of the outlets and lights in the house 
did not add up to that many breakers.

    I've been thinking about this balancing myself lately -not to do
    with X-10 though.
    
    What you need to determine is what the current drain is on both
    circuits under normal circumstances.  It doesn't matter what the
    breaker ratings are.  What matters is what the load is.  You could
    have 50 amps of power on one and 50 on the other.  But if all the
    equipment on one is off and 90% is on on the other then it's
    unbalanced.  Clear?

    re .21
    
    	Incoming residential 220V power is actually 2-phase, not 3-phase.
    
    	The quickest way to balance the distribution of loads across
    both phases is to add up the breaker values.  More work would be
    to use the actual ratings of the major appliances.  More work yet
    would be to factor in the usage patterns.
    
    	I personally wouldn't worry that much about it, I'm certain
    that electricians use option one (approximately).

        Make sure you don't bend any wires excessively if you do play
    around.  Also, turning off the main breaker doesn't make it a foolproof
    job - if you have any doubts about doing the work, hire an electrician.
    (Who, when you say "I'd like my circuit breakers balanced," will
    say "What?")
    
    Rich
                

    re .21 .23
    
    Residential 220V power is 3-wire 'single' phase. There is 220 volts
    of potential between two of the wires. The third wire is a common
    wire at ground or zero potential.
    
    Between each of the first two wires and common there is 110 volts
    of potential, but the polarity of the two wires is always the opposite.
    At a given instant, one of the two will be positive with respect
    to common, and the other will be negative. 
    
    These two main wires form the two sides in your breaker or fuse
    box. To run a two-wire 220V circuit, one wire will be connected 
    to each of the main sides in your electrical box. To run a two-wire
    110V circuit, one wire will be connected to one of the main sides
    and the other will be connected to common.
    
    If you draw current on a 220V circuit, the amps will flow in one 
    of the main wires and out the other. The load on the two main wires
    will be exactly equal, or balanced. No current will flow in the 
    common wire.
    
    If you draw current on a 110V circuit, amps flow in the one main
    wire, but flow out the common wire. However, if there is a load
    on a 110V circuit connected to the other main, it will also create
    a current in the common wire, but since it has the opposite polarity,
    the current will flow in the common and out the main.
    
    Now there are two currents in the common, one flowing in and one
    flowing out. If the load is balanced, the currents will be the same
    and will cancel each other. There will be no current in the common.
    
    Balancing your load means distributing your usage so that there is 
    the same current in each of your mains, and none in the common. All 
    220V circuits are inherently balanced, so it only refers to 110V
    circuits. 
    
    In practice, you can only take your best shot at balancing the load.
    Putting the kitchen on one side and the bedroom on the other tends
    not to be optimal because you usually aren't using both circuits
    at the same time.
     
                     

RE .23 "turning off ther main isn't foolproof'
ok - you got my attention....what else shoudl I know?

>RE .23 "turning off ther main isn't foolproof'
>ok - you got my attention....what else shoudl I know?

	I have done a lot of wiring, and though this is generally not the
	case in your own house, read with which you are intimately familiar,
	but rather with when you are not really paying attention and making
	assumptions.  Watch out with electricity you can do more than make
	an ass of yourself if you're not lucky.

	My uncle had a "friend" who wired his cabin for him.  I put in some
	additional circuits and turned off the breaker clearly marked "Main"
	guess what, the wiring came up out of the slab and he was about
	14" shy of reaching the mains breaker, so he wired the mains into a
	double breaker at the *bottom* of the box.  Fortunately I only got
	*bit* but I won't make that mistake again.  Turn off what you think
	is the mains but always check with a meter, after all the mains 	
	breaker could go bad or be defective.

	Fool me once shame on you, fool me twice shame on me.  Randy

BTW - once you've relocated the breakers, how do you fill in the holes 
they leave in the panel (doesn't look like something code would allow)
thanx/j

    They make neat little fillers that you can buy at a good electrical
    supply store.

re .25, .26:

> RE .23 "turning off ther main isn't foolproof'
> ok - you got my attention....what else shoudl I know?

If you have fuses instead of breakers:
Fuse boxes commonly have a main fuse for the smaller-current circuits, and 
one or more separate "main" fuses for the high-current circuits.  So to 
kill all power in the house, you need to remove all of these "main" fuses.

And, of course, for both breakers and fuses, the main feed wires coming in
from the street are still live.  It's only wiring AFTER the main breaker
that's off. 

Well, I found this note again and thought I'd put in the current state of
the house lighting.

I got the RF controller, and it works just fine.  Roll up to the house,
pick up the hand unit, point it at the house, and turn on outside lights
and any downstairs lights I feel like before getting out of the car.

I got kind of addicted to the stuff and started installing a module here,
a controller there, until almost the whole house lighting is on it.  The
most satisfying thing on a cold night is to realize by the glow in the back
yard that you left the basement lights on, and just reach behind your head
and hit the "all off" switch.  Also when the cats start yelling to come
in I can turn on a path of lights to the door so I don't break my neck
while trying to find the wall switch.  Conveniently placed controllers at
a couple of places downstairs let me turn lights on or off without having
to travel.

This past week I found some of the real fancy controller modules made by
Leviton.  Controllers for 1-4 addresses that fit in the wall switch space!
Very convenient for a couple of rooms where I wanted to control a light
accross the room from the switched wall socket.  A bit pricey, but just
the thing for the situation.  Mass Gas and Electric in Watertown on River
Street had 'em in stock.

/Dave

I find that I often want to use an X-10 module to make/break a 
connection on a low-current circuit (turn phone or thermostat on or 
off).  However, the Radio S**ck AC relays aren't very hi-quality, nor 
do they take well to the trickle current that the X-10 module puts out 
in its OFF state.  Can someone recommend a good (inexpensive) source 
for more robust AC relays?
thanx/j

    Another question on the X-10:
    
    I've installed several of the light switches in our house, and a
    couple of them have been giving us problems for the past few months.
    The work ok when activated remotely, but when operated manually
    they are very difficult to turn on and off. That is, you have to
    hit the switch repeatedly (often many, many times) before it does
    what you want. It seems like they are defective, but I was wondering
    if anyone has seen similar problems?
    
    - Ram

re: .32

	I've had that problem.  It took a couple of years to show up and 
seems to be related to wear.  I didn't look into it too closely since I 
was selling the house about the time it really started to annoy me.

					>>>==>PStJTT

one choice is to replace them - Radio shack has a sale for $8.88

(or maybe x-10 would do it for free - give them a call

800 526 0027

i have noticed you havve to hold them down for a second for them to 
switch

    re: X-10 wall switches
    
 ��  i have noticed you have to hold them down for a second for them to switch
    
	Actually, I have found that you can push them for very short
    time - it still takes a fraction of a second for the light to come
    on (even after you have stopped pressing).  

    I realize you can replace these for less than $10, but something
    in my Scottish background balks at throwing away something I just
    bought a year ago when it should work a lot longer. In any case,
    I pulled the switches last week and took them apart myself to see
    what could be done about it. The switches are actually designed
    so that they can be opened up, and it isn't difficult if you do
    it carefully. I discovered that the problem was caused by the fact
    that the contact for the switch is made by a couple of spring arms
    pressing against a contact plate, and the arms had "relaxed" a little
    so that they didn't make good contact when the switch was pressed.
    I fixed this by simply squeezing the arms together a little, and
    the switches are now working fine.
    
    I don't know how long this fix will work, but once you know how to get
    the switches apart it only takes a minute to open it up and do it. It's
    a nuisance, but still better than buying a new switch, and I really
    like having the remote control capability.
    
    - Ram 

    
    	I've been to RADIO SHACK with no avail.  What I'm looking for
    is to set up a two way switch with a remote.  I've got a hall light
    that has a standard switch at the top of the stairs.  I would like 
    to be able to turn the light off and on from the bottom of the 
    stairs independent of the other switch position.
    	All that rat shack had were large control modules that had
    to be plugged in.  What I want is a small battery operated
    device that I can mount on the wall.
    	Does anyone know who makes such a system.  I plan on
    checking YOU DO IT electronics to see what they have.
    
    					=Ralph=

    Ralph, I got something that sounds like that:
    
    It's a module that screws into a lamp socket and then you screw a light
    bulb into it. It comes with a hand held, battery operated, radio wave
    (not IR so it doesn't have to be line of sight) remote control that
    turns the lamp on and off and can dim it as well. I got it at the Fair
    department store several years ago for under $20 bucks. I have seen it
    else where occasionaly, but not that often.
    
    It's nice in that you don't need the big buck solution for one lighting
    situation. The only problem with my unit is that stray radio waves
    sometimes will trigger it. Maybe the newer unit have that problem
    licked? 
    
    Charly

Re: .37

	If you really want to "fake" a 3-way switch in this way, you must
	replace the switch at the top of the stairs with a remote controlled
	switch. If you don't, a remote control (such as suggested in the
	previous reply) won't work right. If the switch at the top of the
	stairs is off, the remote won't work.

	Sears, BSR, and Stanley (seems to use the same modules as BSR) all
	make remote control units that will do what you need. I just installed
	a Sears unit last night, so I will limit myself to discussing that.

	Sears sells a wire in remote switch for $19.95 and a 3 channel 
	transmitter for $29.95. This is somewhat expensive, but I believe
	you can get $10 off if switch and transmitter are ordered together.
	These remote units are options for Sears garage door openers, but
	do not require one to work.

	To install, the old switch must be removed and the remote switch 
	installed in it's place. Someone who has replaced a few switches
	before can do it in 10-15 minutes. If you have no experience, figure
	on about 1/2 hour. The bracket for the transmitter can be mounted
	wherever you want downstairs.

	The transmitter has 3 channels so if you want to be able to control
	additional lights in the future, you need only add additional
	receivers (switches). Also, multiple switches can be set to the
	same code so that you can turn on/off several lights at the same
	time.	
	

Larry

I bought the sears remote switch and put it in my garage to allow me 
to control my outside spots from my car (I already had the requisite
 sears 3-channel garage door opener).  After replacing it once, I gave
up because the units had very short range and could not receive a
signal thru a closed wooden garage door, and were generally
unreliable.  I wish  you better luck with yours. 


For the same $20 (maybe $25, tops), you can buy, from Radio Shack (its
in the catalog, if not in your store), or from X-10, or from DAK. 

1) a replacement wall switch that has an on-off switch on it, but also 
responds to remote commands.  ($9-12, depending on when/where you buy 
it)

2) an 8-channel remote controller that you plug in downstairs, and use 
to signal to the upstairs light switch to turn it on or off.
(same $9-$12)

Now, for the next seven things you decide to control remotely, you
need only buy a module ($10) _they have light switch modules, wall 
plug modules, modules with dimmers, modules that control lights that
have 2 switches, etc.


in fact, DAK is now having a sale - if you buy the $40 RF remote 
controller (allows you to walk around the house with a controller in 
your hand) they are selling wall plug modles for $6.90 apiece).

X-10 is not a 'big bucks' solution, in fact, compared to spending $20- 
$25 for every light or whatever you want to put on a timer or a remote 
control, its quite a bit cheaper

    	Funny think about DAKs sale. I ordered 2 of the RF controlers
    and 4 of the $6.90 switch units. Well they were real nice to send
    me the swithch units and tell tell me that the RF remotes were back
    ordered. Alot of good the switch units do without the controlers.
    I would think they would have a little bit bigger supply of them
    on hand if they were going to be pushing them in a sale.
    	The RF remotes look like they might work pretty good as long
    as they have about 500 ft range.
    
    					My 3� worth...
    
    		...Dave
    

Does anyone know anything about the HomeMinder unit?  I think these 
are the ones GE was trying to sell for a few hundred bucks a few years 
ago.  Now Radio Shack is selling out a 'limited supply' @ $59.95.  

    	My bother picked one up last weekend for his remote light system.
    He bought it while visiting me so we hooked it up to my system to
    give it a try. Personaly the only thing I like about it is the timer
    ability which will alow your lights to come off and on at preprogrammed
    times. It also has a security mode for random on/off to give the
    house that lived in look.
    	The other thing which was a nice feature if you don't have a
    answering machine or use it at a vacation home is the ability to
    phone and turn on/off devices from any touch-tone phone. The
    only problem is that it answers after 7 rings and if you have
    an aswering machine the 2 will fight each other.
    
    	Now for the things I don't like
    
    	You have to have the TV on to remotly control any thing. The
    whole system is menu driven and takes about 4-5 commands to turn
    on a light. This is somewhat simmaler to what everyone hated about
    DEC's PRO-350 software to many menus. There is no way using the
    remote to just say #2 on.
    
    	Set-up of the rooms are somewhat limited. Basiclly you get a
    7 room hose that you set up with light and appliances. And you dont
    have a lot of choices for light placement. Say for example you have
    a spot light on 3 sides of your house, The sytem only gives you
    choices for 2 placements front and back. This makes it diffacult
    to set up the neat little menus to look like your own house.
    
    	Units 1 and 2 or pre designated and can not be changed. If you
    have any remote units set to 1 or 2 you'll have to change them.
    Unit 1 is designted for the security mode and unit 2 is designated
    for the TV plugged into the homeminder.
    
    
    	So if you can live with these limitations its not too bad for
    60 bucks, but definatly not worth the $200 GE tryed for. 
    
    	One other plus for this system. If you have a big remote system
    aka more than 16 units this system will handel it very well. you
    can setup the system so that every room is on a diffrent house code
    if you want. 
    
    	I'm still undecided myself I've been wanting to get a timer
    controler for my system but don't know if this is a better deal
    or not.
    
    				...Dave
    

I picked one up myself yesterday, and spoke with X-10 today.  Some 
thoughts:

on -.1.  all you say is correct, but i think its much easier to 
program than the regular timer controller.  It also gives you much
more flexibility (program each day of the week separately, for each
module, as opposed to the regular timer/controller permits a just 24hr
program) Also lets you program weekday/weekend/today/tomorrow. 

I have a maxi-controller in the same room as the HomeMinder.  I use
the maxi-controller for instant on-off, and intend to turn the
homeminder on only when I have to change a program 

Basically I am using the homeminder as a Super-duper timer controller, 
and am ignoring the slight limitations of the 'fixed' house map.

If you have more than 8 items to time, the cost is comparable
(individual 8-channel timers cost about $30, this handles 16+ channels
for $60) and you get the flexibility and the phone controller (a $40
value, and the separate ones require a beeper) for free.  I would 
consider buying one as my first controller.

Now, I spoke to the chief engineer at X-10 today.  When GE couldn't 
sell these for $250+, X-10 bought them back, and sold them to Radio 
Shack (GE took the loss).  They will support these with a 12 month 
warranty (the manual says 90 days).  Also, they agree that it was dumb 
to dedicate channels 1 and 2, especially as many people live off the 
8-channel mini-controller.  Future revisions may be done differently.
I think they're a heck of a steal, get one if you can.

    
    I have looked through the notes with key words 'electric-wiring' and
    'electric-main' but didn't find this application mentioned.
    
    Does anyone out there know of there is a commercially available
    circuit breaker that has the capability of being shut off or 
    tripped from a remote location.
    
    I would like to put in a service box for my shop, and a feature I
    would like to have is an 'EMERGENCY' shut-off located in a couple
    of places in the shop.  Kind of like the panic buttons we have in
    some of the computer labs.
    
    I have tried calling a couple of places without success.
    
    Thanks in advance..
    
    	Craig
    

>> Kind of like the panic buttons we have in some of the computer labs.
    
Exactly what I was going to suggest!   Take a look on the ones in the labs,
and see if you can find a manufacturer.  Or talk to the local facilities
folks... they should know a source.

Bob

    There is another way not sure about the cost differential but the
    contactors are available manual make push botton to break with a lver
    for manual reset. The push button actually just operates a solenoid
    that pulls a holding pin out of a big spring loaded on off handle
    switch. Try any big commercial electrical supply. I think the switch
    was either made by GE or Square D.
    
    Bill
    

    Allen & Bradley is a vendor for what you want.
    

    Am I missing something here?  Why would you want a panic switch?
    It seems to me that anything you'd want to switch off would only
    be running if you were standing _right_ in front of it.  I mean,
    you don't turn on your table saw, walk across the shop and then
    have a panic need to turn it off.  What am I missing?

    Sometimes you are not the only person in a shop.  If someone gets
    caught in a machine and is blocking the power switch, a panic button
    would come in handy.  What if the switch to the machine fails? 

    Also provides a switch to turn off the entire shop so that children
    do not accidently hurt themselves.

    re:137.0
    
    		Stanley has exactly what your looking for. It is called
    the lightmaker.
                               Rick

Re: .45

Stanley's "Lightmaker" system is just an expensive and incompatible variant
of the BSR X-10 system.  It is available in more variety at a lower cost
from a number of sources, including Radio Shack.

				Steve

    My question concerns the use of timers and light-sensistive devices
    to turn on lights automatically at night.  One of the purposes these 
    devices serve is to avoid wasting electricity during daylight hours.
    
    My question is:  Is there any way to determine how much electricity
    the devices themselves use?  For example, a mechanical timer generally 
    has small electric motor to drive a 24-hour calibrated dial.  How much 
    power does such a motor use day-after-day.  Is there a similar power 
    drain from a light-sensitive switching device?
    
    My goal is not just to lower my electric bill (even though the Chicago
    area has one of the highest rates in the country).  Rather, I am also
    interested in lowering my actual power consumption (which has
    environmental implications as well).
    
    Thanks for any information.
    
    Marshall

The power drain of the electronic devices is on the order of milliwatts.
Even the motor-driven timers use only a watt or two, if that.  Their
usage is noise compared to the savings you'll get by not having other
devices (such as 100-watt light bulbs) on during the day.

			Steve

    Has anyone ever bothered to replace (if possible) the
    movement sensor on those outdoor light fixture.
    (normally have two bulbs, one on each side of the sensor).
    
    If possible were in Mass. Framingham/Natick area can
    this piece be purchased ?
    
    Thanks Lloyd

When it came time to replace the faulty IR motion sensor controlling an
outdoor flood, I ended up buying an entire new unit at Spag's. The IR
sensor/control unit was available separately via special order at a
couple of supply stores (like Acton Supply and Maynard Supply), but it
was more expensive than the entire assembly at Spag's. So I ended up
with a lower price tag and couple of extra lamp sockets and a cover
plate, which are now in my spare parts box.

    Aubuchon's carrys motion sensors as a separate part... don't know the
    price they are asking, but it's less that the entire unit (at
    Aubuchon's).  It threads into a standard hole that accepts floodlight
    sockets (typically into the center hole on a 3 hole plate).

    While we are on this subject,,, I have a unit that works great as long
    as the outside temp is over 45 degrees.  When it get below that,, the
    dam thing doesn't go on at all.   Does this happen with anyone else???
    
    Bruce
    
    

>    While we are on this subject,,, I have a unit that works great as long
>    as the outside temp is over 45 degrees.  When it get below that,, the
>    dam thing doesn't go on at all.   Does this happen with anyone else???

Could it be that when it's that cold outside, you're dressing warmer 
which masks your body heat from the IR sensor ?? I know here in 
Phoenix, when the outside temp is between 96-100 (which it is often), 
the sensor can't recognize your body heat from the ambient heat, and 
doesn't work well....

    
    

    Humm!!!!  I never really thought too much about it,,,, I thought they
    keyed off motion not heat sensor!!!  Is there more than one type and
    how does one know what kind he has???
    
    Bruce\ 

>    Humm!!!!  I never really thought too much about it,,,, I thought they
>    keyed off motion not heat sensor!!!  Is there more than one type and
>    how does one know what kind he has???
    
They do key off motion, but they determine the motion by the detection
of body heat. Most of the newer motion detectors (either interior
alarm system types or outside floodlight types) use detection of
infrared (IR) body heat to determine the presence of a body. The IR
sensor scans in a set of planes radiating vertically and/or
horizonatally from the detector. To help reduce false triggering, they
have to detect the heat in more than one plane in a sequential order
within a predefined time period before triggering (hence detecting
"motion"). Some interior alarm motion detectors have a way to change
the detection trigger to 1, 2 or 3 pulse detection depending on the
amount of security desired and the possiblity for false alarms (pets,
etc). 

They recommend that you don't place the inside motion detector near
heat vents, and they warn on the outside flood lite detectors that 
they may not work as well at ambient temperatures close to 98.6�. 
Therefore, if you're well insulated from the cold, your body heat is 
also well insulated from the IR detector.

Arlan

    <detect motion by means of body heat>
    
    Ours is triggered my moving automobiles. What am I missing?

    re .7

    It can detect the body heat of the driver, right through the car.

    The real trick in doing so is ignoring the heat of the engine.
    Nasty bit of pattern-recognition firmware there...

>    Ours is triggered my moving automobiles. What am I missing?


"hot" cars ?  (exhaust, metal, etc...)

    First off there are several type od sensors. IR Infra red, Motion,
    which detect motion, and ultra sonic, for motion detection also.
    Depending on the type of detector you sensor has, different situations
    will produce different results. Find out what you have, and base the
    question on that data, and the relpies you get will seem more
     applicable.
    
    
    FWIW/Bob

>    First off there are several type od sensors. IR Infra red, Motion,
>    which detect motion, and ultra sonic, for motion detection also.


Gee, maybe I'm missing something, but how do you have a "motion 
detector" without it also being an IR or Ultrasonic detector ??

As far as I know, you can't detect "motion" without being able to 
detect that there is something there, and that is done either by 
Ultrasonics, or by IR. So, unless I'm way off base, I'd argue that 
there are only 2 kinds of "motion detectors": IR and Ultrasonic. 
Typically, Ultrasonic only work indoors in a well defined space since 
they are "tuned" to the static reflection of sound waves from the 
surrounding environment, and notice a change in that reflection when 
something moves. IR works by detecting body heat, and won't trigger 
if you drag a chair across their path from a long rope.

Arlan

    
    Anyone care to guesstimate the life of one of those outdoor Motion
    Sensor fixtures??   I bought one of the $19.99 'cheapos' from Rich's 
    during the summer to provide a source a light for my dog's kennel.  
    
    Installed it in August.  In November it "stuck-on"; so I removed it
    and returned it to Rich's.  After 'bout 45 minutes, I convinced the
    clerk to honor the 1 year warranty.  I then install the new unit.
    All fixed! 
    
    Last night, I get home... spot light's shining once again.  No dog in
    the kennel.  Check it later, sure enough... the lights are still on.
    Adjust the sensitivity.  Adjust the time duration.  Wait 1/2 hour.   
    
    It's still on.
    
    Unscrew bulbs & curse.
    
    This weekend, I'm planning to remove it, return it and demand a $cash$
    refund.  Then I'll go out and do what my better judgement said I should
    have done in the first place - buy a "good" quality one.    
    
    Anyone else had similar experience with "Lights_of_America" units? 
    Did I just "happen" to land on the 2 PPM that LOF produced last year?
    Certainly I'd expect them to design it to fail on day one of month 
    thirteen.  BTW, this unit is "made in USA".
    
    Any recommendations/experience on problem free motion sensor outdoor 
    lights, and can I expect to get a good one for 30 or 40 bucks?
    
    Thanks,
                                                             
    

    	Hi,
    
    		I had similar problem with the same brand. I have to toggle
    	a switch controlling 110V to the sensor and adjust its settings. It 
    	seems to work OK for the last 3 days but I am not sure it is fix. The 
    	toggling to set operating mode Manual or Automatic was confusing. I
    	wish the sendor just have a select switch for this function.
    
    		By the way, I bought mine at Bradlees for $15 while it was
    	on sale.
               
    
    								Neil
    	 

    We had 2 that both broke (different brands, $40-50 range).  Both
    got stuck-on.  The only thing that we can think that might have 
    happened to them is that they were mounted on the Floods, and that
    side of the house receives some fairly direct sunlight at sunset.
    They warn against this, and while it wasn't a LOT of sun, it may have
    been enough to fry the sensor.  Are you pointing at the sun??  Can
    you aim it down some more?
    
    

    Re.-1
    Actually, the unit is mounted on the north side of the house amongst
    lots of trees & shade.  The sensor is mounted about 8' up the side of
    the house, tilted downward (all the way I believe) to sense a body 
    walking about  3 to 5 feet from the house.  This side of house gets 
    very little sun (which is why we choose it for the dog's kennel). 
    
    Re.-2
    I think I paid something like $14.99 for the fixture... on sale at
    Rich's. 
    
    

    We bought one of those Rich's units.  We have not had any problems with
    ours.  Maybe you just need to reset it, to work in sensor mode again. 
    You have to cut the power to the unit for (I think) 1 or 5 minutes,
    then turn it back on.
    
    A briefer cut of power causes the detector to go to "always on".  We
    use this when expecting company.  I imagine a brief power outage might
    cause this condition, too.
    
    Elaine
    

I have a Heath/Zenith unit that's been known to 'stick-on' once in a while.
I discovered that the little relay in there sometimes gets a little sticky
and a tap with a broom handle cures it.  That's happened at least twice in
over a year, but that's all.

I kinda like the unit, although when the dryer pumps out a plume of steam
in front of the sensor, the lite will go on.  Minor annoyance, IMHO.

I got this at Channel, Nashua NH, for about $30 (on sale).


Chris

    Re.17; resetting it didn't even cross my mind.  In fact, I don't think
    the instruction sheet even mentioned a reset process.
    
    As the unit isn't on a wall switch, I'll try resetting as you described 
    via the Circuit Breaker at the dist box.  Voltage fluctuations/
    brown-outs seem pretty common in my neighborhood... so I suspect your
    solution will solve the problem.
    
    In the meantime... Rich's has made good & given me unit number 3!
    (even tho I now think #1 & #2 were OK!)
    
    Thanx
    

    RE: -.1
    Yes, crazy as it seems, I too 'just happened' to see the fine print
    that tells you to have the sensors powered with a wall-switch. I guess
    the auto on-off operation is a feature and/bug depending on how you
    look at it!
    
    Add a wall switch if possible (power failures will drive you and your
    lights crazy!)
    
    Mark

    
    re .19
    
    	Does unit # 3 work the same as the others and does 're-setting' the
    unit solve its problems?  I installed one yesterday and am having the
    darnest time getting it set properly.  Appeared to work okay in
    daylight test but either darkness or setting to manual mode &
    back again has caused it to cycle off and then back on again immediately 
    for varying lengths of time.
    
    	Do adjustments need to be made with the power off?  What's the
    trick?
    	
    	Thanks.
    
    						Jim

>Do adjustments need to be made with the power off?  What's the trick?
    	
No.

Make sure the light from one of the bulbs is not striking something close
and reflecting back to the sensor.

You should have it connected to a wall switch.

Mickey.

Why should the sensor light be connected to a light switch?  It would seem that
it would be better not on a wall switch.  That way noone can turn it off.

Ed..

    The reason why a sensor light is connected to a light switch is so
    that you can override the sensing mechanism to force the light into
    an "ON" position.  You then use the light switch to re-enable sensing
    mode.
    
    -al

    I've installed a sound-activated light in our
    garage. The idea is to turn on the light when it "hears"
    the garage door being opened.  And it works well.
    
    But there's a problem in that the garage is under an
    actively used room.  And it constantly "hears" activity
    coming through the ceiling, so that the light goes
    on quite constantly.
    
    Does anyone have any idea for how to make the light
    be more selective?
    
    The light does have a sensitivity switch that I've
    turned way down, so it requires louder sounds to
    activate it.  But that's not good enough.
    
    Thanks in advance,
      Rich

    Maybe wrap a few layers of tape/cloth/something around the "ear" to
    further reduce sensitivity?
    
    Edd

A cone that deadens noise in any direction except the desired one?

Stan

    what about motion instead or another alternative..
    

Why not just put a switch on the garage door? I once put two switches on
a garage door - one to tell when the door was not all the way down and one
to tell when it was locked. It was a piece of cake what with all the holes
in the rails and all of the different points to attach things to.

Mickey.

   This note has been quiet for some time, but this seems to be the right
   place to ask...
   
   I want to put up one of those outside lights with the motion sensor
   trigger.  The only issue I have is that I want it to trigger on motion
   from two different directions:
   
                |                       |
     door & --> /|||                    |   <-- far side of driveway
     stairs     |                       |
                |      driveway         |
                |                       |
     house      |                       |
                |                       |
   -------------*                       |
                                        |
   I want to put the light somewhere in the vacinity of the "*", on the
   corner of the house so that it will illuminate a good part of the
   driveway as well as the stairs.  I want the light to come on when
   someone walks down the stairs, and also when someone comes down the
   driveway.  
   
   As far as I understand it, the sensor range is less than 180 degrees,
   which means that either I point the sensor towards the stairs, or down
   the driveway, but I can't have both.  If at all possible, I'd like the
   light to come on before the car is parallel to the house.
   
   So... does anybody know if its possible to acquire a second sensor and
   somehow hook them in parallel to trigger the light from both
   directions?  Or, is the detection range larger than I thought so that
   the light really would come on the way I want it to?
   
   Thanks,

   - Tom

    I think the best you can do is buy a separate sensor which will then
    wire into any light you want, rather than a light with the sensor
    built in.  Mount the sensor on the house to the upper left of
    your diagram, past the door, and aimed down the driveway.  Keep in
    mind that these sensors detect motion across their range of vision,
    not in a straight line, so you want as much of an angle as you
    can get.  You may have to play with the aim and sensitivity
    adjustments, though if the sensor is close to the door it should
    pick up almost any movement nearby.
    
    Also try to avoid having the light shine into the sensor.
    
    					Steve

    
    That's similar to the set up on my house. I think you'll find the angle
    is a tad wider than 180deg as the sensor has a fresnel lens that covers
    a wide "fish eye" field.  In fact, I have to mask part of the lens with
    tape to stop it reacting to the neighbour's car lights.
    
    The sensor failed a few months ago due to water ingress and I picked up
    a sensor-only replacement from HD.  From memory, there would not be a
    problem with wiring a second sensor in parallel.
    
    Colin
    
    

    I've set up my garage to have two sensor lights, so that either sensor
    turns on both sets of lights.  All it takes is a 14-3 between them 
    instead of 14-2, with the sensors connected in parallel.
    
    Of course, they are only rated for 300W, so I have to be careful about
    the wattage of the bulbs that I use.  75W meets the spec for my two
    dual-bulb sensor lights, but I hesitate to cut it that close.  Earlier
    notes have said that the sensors tend to fail if driven to the limit.
    
    	Enjoy,
    	Larry

>    Of course, they are only rated for 300W, so I have to be careful about
>    the wattage of the bulbs that I use.  75W meets the spec for my two
>    dual-bulb sensor lights, but I hesitate to cut it that close.  Earlier
>    notes have said that the sensors tend to fail if driven to the limit.

Doesn't GE make flood lamps in their "Miser" line?  They're typically a
few watts less than standard, maybe 67 instead of 75.