Conference 7.286::home_work

If the panelling is done well, it would look like the wainscotting that probably
was there originally.  The molding was originally to keep the backs of chairs
from rubbing the wall.  I have heard it referred to as a chair rail.  Not
sure if that's the 'proper name', but it will serve the purpose if properly
located.

BB

I've heard of people rubbing a brick or something like it over the wall to
knock off the high points of the textured stuff, spackling it, and then doing
whatever treatment they wanted.

If that's too hackey for you and you don't want to panel, how about taking down
the wallboard and starting over from scratch?

-joet 

I've heard of spraying water on the walls with a garden hose and sprayer
and then scraping the stucco-yuck off with a large taping knife.  Sounds
to me like the recipe for a big mess, but it's supposed to work.

Faced with this problem, I probably tear down and replace the wallboard.

-- Ward

  
TRY USING A BELT SANDER TO REMOVE THE RUFFNESS OF THE PAINT.  I DID THIS
ON MY TEXTURED WALLS.  I USED A LOT OF SAND PAPER BUT IT DID WORK.

Ye Gods!  All these schemes!  Take down the sheetrock and start from 
scratch.  Then you can finish the walls however you want and no one will 
ever curse you in the future.

- Paul

THE VOICE OF EXPERIENCE SPEAKS:

Tear down the wallboard and replace it! No travesty in your house can match
(or at least surpass) those of the previous owner of mine. As I refinish
each room I'm tearing down the walls and replacing them (also gives the
advantage of easy access to re-insulate outer walls).

-mike

    Does anyone have any experience with drywall textuing--I have just
    recently started doing drywall in my basement and am nearing the
    point of finishing the walls--I know I can rent a texturing gun.
    Any hints/suggestions concerning type of texturing material and
    application tips would be appreciated.
    
    thanks in advance!
    
    R_Ivers
    Colorado
    

    I used a BIG sponge (like the kind you use to wash your car) and
    just sponged the finishing on.  It gives an arching finish and you
    have to be careful not to miss anything.
    
    Lots of work... but have fun.
    
    Patrick

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It's been a while since anyone wrote in this topic.  I'm looking for the 
name of the stuff (and/or recommendations) that removes textured paint
(as in what I have on 2 of my ceilings !).  

Seems I was at Spags a bit before Xmas and the paint person made some 
mention of it....but at that time, that wasn't the question I was asking, 
sooo, I didn't really listen to his response.  Naturally.  NOW I need to 
know what he was talking about.  

Any recent experiences/ideas about methods/products ?

Colette

    
    Re: .7
    
    Certain types of textured paint are designed to be removed with
    a wallpaper steamer. but I'd be interested to hear if there is
    another method.
    

    The flyer from Builders Square I got in today's paper features
    a product from Zinsser called "Texture-Off".  The claims are:
    
    	- Removes latex flat and textured finishes from walls
    	  and ceilings
    
    	- No toxic chemicals - easy to use
    
    	- Prepares surfaces for paint or papering
    
    The price is $17.95 for a gallon - expensive, but might well be worth
    it if it works.  Has anyone used this stuff?  If it works, I have
    LOTS of places in my house I'd love to attack with it....
    
    				Steve

    Re .9:	Will it remove calcimine?
    
    

    Re: .10
    
    I have no idea what calcimine is.  However....
    
    I bought a can of Texture-Off today (turns out $17.99 is the sale
    price, regular price is $19.99).  Here's some more from the label:
    
    
    TEXTURE-OFF is a unique, safe-to-use, low odor latex paint remover
    designed for use on large interior surfaces such as walls and ceilings.
    TEXTURE-OFF's unique solvent action removes most types of latex paint -
    especially textured and "builder's flat" paints - quickly and with
    little effort.
    
    Before TEXTURE-OFF, any texture paint on walls or ceilings could be
    removed only by heavy sanding, hand scraping or dangerous paint
    removers.  TEXTURE-OFF eliminates this tedious drudgery.
    
    Just roll it on, wait one hour, and remove the old paint with a 4" or
    larger putty knife.  Restore "popcorn" ceilings and sand painted
    walls to a smooth, modern finish.  Remove cheap "builder's flat" latex
    paints before hanging wall coverings to ensure a successful
    paperhanging job every time.
    
    TEXTURE-OFF can be used to remove years of latex paint build-up,
    preventing possible repainting failures due to weak, old paint. 
    TEXTURE-OFF will not damage drywall or plaster.  It cleans up easily
    with soap and water.
    
    Note - TEXTURE-OFF is not designed to remove exterior paints, gloss
    finish latexes or alkyd paints.  It will remove flat latexes applied
    over these surfaces, however.  TEXTURE-OFF is not designed nor
    recommended for use as an asbestos (or equivalent) remover and should
    not be used for such.  TEXTURE-OFF is also not designed for removing
    stucco, cementitious coating or other non-latex textured surfaces.
    
    
    Coverage - 150 to 250 sq. ft. per gallon, depending on surface, less if
    multiple applications are desired.

    Hmmm.  If the texture was applied like it was by the previous owner
    of my house all you need to do is start scraping with a putty knife.
    The texture scrapes off very easily and leaves a nice smooth ceiling.
    I did a 180 sq foot area in an hour.
    
    	Probably the only thing I'm glad he screwed up.

    George

I've looked thru all the drywall notes in 1111.76, and didn't see one 
that specifically addressed this, so here goes:

We're in the final stages of finishing out the joints of a 470 sq ft 
addition (I never want to see drywall mud again !!!), and the next 
step is wall coverings. Most of the houses out here have a sprayed on 
texture made of mud (not the pre-mixed kind) sprayed on from a hopper 
attached to an air compressor to what is called an "orange-peel"
texture. Having never done this before, I'm looking for some info on
how to mix the mud, how far from the wall do you stand, how fast do
you move the hopper, etc ?? Anyone ever applied this type of wall
texture that can give me a few pointers ??  Especially in those areas 
where old textured walls butt against new walls, and we want the 
texture to match.

Thanks

Arlan

I've no useful information, but you might find 857.22 humorous.

Paul

    
                    ( Do it Yourself Texture mix)
    
    I had an addition built recently and learned of a cheap and inexpensive
      way to make your own texture mix for ceilings and walls.
    
    
    4-gallons of drywall mud
    
    1-gallon of white paint
    
    Mix well apply with a texture roller.
    
    It dries hard and looks great. I saw it done as they were applying it
      and wouldn't have believed it if I didn't see it for myself. They 
      did the ceilings in 2 new bedrooms that way.
    I had my choice of the texture roller look or swirls. They did it both
    ways when they were applying it and simplly went over it with the
    roller when I chose the roller look.
    Just another trick of the trade!

    Swirls are usually made with a wisk broom.
    
    -j

    My brother-in-law told me about this about a year ago.  When he did
    some remodeling, he did all of the new ceilings that way.  Of course he
    failed to mention this until after I bought some textured paint to do
    somw walls that were a mess.  It's much cheaper and works better and
    yes, he did use latex paint.
    

>>             <<< Note 4153.2 by CSC32::GORTMAKER "Whatsa Gort?" >>>
>>    Swirls are usually made with a wisk broom.
    
	This may be a stupid question but this sounds too easy.  Could
	you eleborate?   By a wisk broom,  do you mean just to take
	a straw-style broom and drag it around the ceiling?
	Am I missing something?  I have a bunch of ceilings to do and I
	like to match the existing downstairs ones.  They are textured
	with "swirls".
		
	Garry

    
    yup, thats all you need, a hand (straw) wisk broom like the kind the
    barbers use, only different ;^)
    
    I've seen it done, looks simple, i'm sure it's much harder than it 
    looks however.
    
    good luck,   Fra
    

    Ten or so years ago I decided to fix a ceiling in a bedroom that was
    in some kind of tough shape.  Being somewhat novice and with not much
    money, I covered the ceiling with joint compound using a texture brush
    that I bought at Sears.  The brush looks a lot like a wallpaper paste
    brush, but stiffer.  The advantage of this brush over a wisk broom is
    that it has a handle which makes it easier to hold. 
    
    I started in one corner and made semi circular swirls (one in the
    corner, then three, then xx, then xxx, and so forth until I had done
    the entire ceiling.
    
    I know that there may be howls out there over this treatment, but it
    worked although it was a VERY tiring job.  Once you start, you can't
    take a beer break until you're done, which may be two hours or more.
    And it's a one person job.  
    
    Frank
    
    I used the same brush with texture paint on a hallway with the same
    system and results.  
    
    The only caution I would give to using texture paint is that you'd 
    better be sure you want this effect forever, because returning the
    walls or ceiling to a smooth surface later is one son of a gun of 
    a job.

    Yep that about all there is to it trowel on a thin coat of mud the put
    in the swirl with the broom.
    
    BTW- drywall finishing is never *easy*. Simple maybe but never easy.
    
    -j

    Anyone ever heard of adding perlite to this mixture to give 
    more of a pebble grain. My neighbor, a pro. painter, mixes mud
    thinned with water and perlite. He uses no latex paint. 

    Just wanted to mention that I tried the mix described in .0 this
    weekend, and it works great!  Looks as good or better than my sprayed
    ceilings.  Thanks for the tip.
    
    /Don

    Can this be applied over existing skim-coat plaster?  Our ceilings have
    been painted, and re-painted over chipped and peeling plaster (house is
    70+ years old).  We wanted to re-do the ceilings, but if this can be
    trowelled over the old stuff, even better!  My first assumption is, if
    it's do-able, to remove any loose plaster.  Do we need to prime to make
    the mud stick?  Sand to rough it up?  
    
    Sarah
    

Even if you remove the loose plaster, what's to prevent more plaster from
loosening?

I USED DRY WALL COMPOUND, THE LATEX WHICH IS USED FOR GROUT, AND A HANDFUL
OF WHITE #20 (I BELEIVE) SAND TO MATCH THE CEILING.  USED A STIFF WHISK
BROOM AND IT MATCHES PERFECT.  LATER I PAINTED THE ENTIRE CEILING WHITE.

BOB





                      <<< Note 4153.0 by AIMHI::POULIN >>>
                        -< Make Your Own Texture Mix ! >-

    
                    ( Do it Yourself Texture mix)
    
    I had an addition built recently and learned of a cheap and inexpensive
      way to make your own texture mix for ceilings and walls.
    
    
    4-gallons of drywall mud
    
    1-gallon of white paint
    
    Mix well apply with a texture roller.
    
    It dries hard and looks great. I saw it done as they were applying it
      and wouldn't have believed it if I didn't see it for myself. They 
      did the ceilings in 2 new bedrooms that way.
    I had my choice of the texture roller look or swirls. They did it both
    ways when they were applying it and simplly went over it with the
    roller when I chose the roller look.
    Just another trick of the trade!

    Forgot I'd entered .12 - that was the kitchen not the bedroom.  What
    does this Texture-Off do to the underlying sheetrock?  None of my walls
    are skim-coated.  Is it still ok to use?
    
    George

    
    this looks as good as any - 
    
    Ok folks - you've put the stuff on your ceiling, 5 years down the
    road you sell.  The next guy want's to add (wiring, windows, doors,
    A/C unit, .. <pick one>) to this room and needs to tear down a
    wall or part of a wall.  To make the job complete, the wall must
    be replaced.  Now say that the entire wall was removed.  When the 
    new wall is replaced, how exactly is one supposed to remud and paper
    over this aweful stuff ?  Of course it has to look good, so retaping
    and mudding over the texture is totally out of the question.
    any hints..?
    
    

You scrape off the texture from where the ceiling meets the wall, tape and
mud as usual, then reapply texture "to match".  Then tell yourself that you'll
never use texture mix again!

I've actually had pretty good luck matching textures when part of a
textured ceiling was replaced.  (Of course, any new ceilings installed were
done without texture!)  If you get the "fineness" right, blend into the
surrounding texture, avoid straight roller lines, and repaint the whole
ceiling, you can end up with something that's not at all obvious.

				Steve

    
>You scrape off the texture from where the ceiling meets the wall, tape and
>mud as usual, then reapply texture "to match".  Then tell yourself that you'll
>never use texture mix again!

    this is accually what I was refering to..  'scraping' the texture mix
    off is no simple task.  Once the paint adhears to the wall mud (in this
    case it's mixed right in), the mud is as hard as steel (almost). 
    
    Any suggestions on what tool to use...  putty knife ?  Wood chisel ?
    Cold chisel :-) ?    How about any softeners - would vinegar soften the
    texture and not stain the wallboard underneath ?  Something else that
    might work ?
    

A putty knife is usually the implement of choice.  But see also note 9.

			Steve

    
    thanks Steve...   read note 9, willing to try the texture-off
    stuff.  will reply in note 9 the results.
    
    keith

Although "1-gallon of white paint" has been clarified as to being latex paint,
was it wall paint or ceiling paint?

And how much does that 5 gallons cover??

Brian - who will be doing this so his second floor matches the first...

"Ceiling paint" is generally a cheaper form of paint than wall paint, as it
does not have to be designed to be abrasion resistant.  Unless you're going
for the "brilliant white" ceiling paints, a good white wall paint works just
fine.

			Steve

    Any tricks/ideas on how to reduce (preferably, eliminate) the
    occasional but always annoying hum from a kitchen overhead flourescent
    fixture?  I imagine the hum comes from the ballast, but that doesn't
    help explain why the hum comes and goes, and more importantly, how to
    get it to go permanently.
    
    I'm surprised that this question (to my knowledge - I searched the
    keywork index prior to posting) hasn't been asked before.
    
    Thank you in advance,
    Dale

    Many years ago, I remember when we heard the hum increase in volume, it
    was either time to replace the tube or the ballast. This was in the
    late 50's, so technology may have made those fixes obsolete in favor of
    something more expensive.

Try tightening the screws that hold the ballast to the fixture. While you're in 
there check out the sound rating on the ballast tag. It may be that the ballast
was replaced or that it originally came with one that has a higher noise output
than you normally find in a residential fixture. The ratings run from "A" to "F"
with "A" being the quitest.

If it turns out that all the above seem OK, replace the ballast if it's driving
you nuts. Houshold Fluorescent fixtures shouldn't be that noisy.

Later


Paul     

I seem to remember very similiar symptoms when the ballast or bulbs were going 
in the fixture of the store I worked at 10 or so years ago.  The key was that
if the bulb is going it causes the ballast to draw more load and eventually 
make more noise.  If the bad bulb was left in too long it would eventually burn
out the ballast.

FWIW
Wayne

    
    Pardon my ignorance, but does texture mix go directly on
    sheetrock/blueboard (after taping) or does it go on over skimcoat?
    Is it used as an alternative to skimcoating or in addition to it?
    
    Phil

	Well I'm [finally] approaching the end of my kitchen remodel
	and after having plastered, sanded, and plastered many times
	my drywall til it looked perfect, the first coat of primer
	shows many defects in some places (screw location dimples,
	un-even-ness near my one and only corner, etc).

	As such, I'm thinking of using something to texture the paint.
	Has anyone done this?  Home Depot sells two products, one is
	a paint that says something like "sand-like finish", and another
	one is an additive that comes in fine, medium and course.

	Thoughts?

    I've used both.  The additive you're referring is available under
    tha brand name Roll-A-Tex; maybe others as well.  It works well enough;
    I used it to match existing texture on a ceiling which had had large 
    sections replaced during remodelling.  
    
    However, I would advise against texturing in a kitchen if you don't
    already have it - it's a bear to keep clean, ESPECIALLY walls.
    Consider wallpaper if you really can't stand the imperfections (and
    don't want to fix them).  Of course, you had better choose a vinyl
    wallpaper as the paper-backed kind will highlight every tiny dimple.
    
    					Steve

    
    They did one sections of walls in the building near the 
    office areas with a two part paint.  The sprayed on an eggshell
    and then a, what looks like a blue string. (very very fine)  
    If you run your had over the surface, its not a heavy texture.
    
    JD

I agree with Steve -- you'll never keep a textured kitchen wall clean.
Go with vinyl wallpaper.

    Have there been any improvements (easier ways) to removing the textured
    paint from a ceiling? I have a few to do. 
    
    Or can you just patch certain areas and get it to match the rest of the
    ceiling. Like the texture in a bucket??? and just repaint the whole
    ceiling after?
    
    Ted
    
    

    I just happened upon this note...
    
    Over the past year I've removed textured paint from two bedroom
    ceilings...materials needed.
    
    1. Step ladder
    2. bucket of water
    3. series of rags
    4. person to hand fresh rags and rinse 'dirty ones'.
    
    I did a 12x13 bedroom in about an hour, let it dry some spackling to do
    and I painted it all in a day...
    
    The 20X13 room took me an extra couple of hours for the same
    procedure...but again it was painted by the end of the day.
    
    -Jay